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Discussion Starter #1
2004 sedan,I replaced drums an shows with Oreillys so called best.One month under the two year warranty they were shot,got free replcements.(10/14_9/16) Now two years plus they shot the bed again,this time shoes free replscements,drums 44 bucks each ouch!what to do with this sad situation?
 

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Are you adjusting the star wheel to retract the shoes? Did you replace the cylinder when you did the brake job? I have had the cylinder freeze in the extended position and I had to cut the drum off.


Also spray lube into the lug area because sometimes they rust to the wheel hub. Does it move at all on the hub?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I replace both wheel cylinders its all dry in there.I got the drums off and they have groves in them?wtf? Shoes still got a little meat on em,no metal parts loose or missing. Could be cheap China drums?
 

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2004 sedan,I replaced drums an shows with Oreillys so called best.One month under the two year warranty they were shot,got free replcements.(10/14_9/16) Now two years plus they shot the bed again,this time shoes free replscements,drums 44 bucks each ouch!what to do with this sad situation?
You have something wrong with your system. Pic of a shoe set I replaced with 65K miles +. they were on the used car when I bought it and looked nearly new. I put on JY drums because they were high quality and nearly new. Parking brakes work very nice. When I jack up a wheel, it spins free, pedal is firm. '03 Sable.
I also have '03 Sable with rear discs and the difference in hardly noticed by sensitive and picky me.


As to finding your issue. Drive it normal and park. Then feel the temperature of the drums. After a 5 mile mixed drive, I can touch the drums and not burn my finger, and both are the same feel.


Jack up a wheel and spin the tire. It should spin free with at most a slight sound.


-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm stumped. All hardware new,brakes worked fine including parking brake.no leaks,good feel to pedal,I've had rear drums on cars in the past and no such problems,they were heavier cars.
 

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Quite often drum brake jobs go bad because park brake cables hang up or are adjusted wrong. The spreader bar is actuated by the lever on the rear shoe and spreads the shoes at the top. this bar MUST have play between the shoes after the shoes have been adjusted. If not; your shoes will drag and not release properly. 95% of all tauruses i work on have frozen cable/s. Oreilley's best is not very good. Lifetime warranty doe not mean quality. I recommend Wagner PAB599AR shoes for 100,000 mile life with quiet performance. From an expert.
 

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Quite often drum brake jobs go bad because park brake cables hang up or are adjusted wrong. The spreader bar is actuated by the lever on the rear shoe and spreads the shoes at the top. this bar MUST have play between the shoes after the shoes have been adjusted. If not; your shoes will drag and not release properly. 95% of all tauruses i work on have frozen cable/s. Oreilley's best is not very good. Lifetime warranty doe not mean quality. I recommend Wagner PAB599AR shoes for 100,000 mile life with quiet performance. From an expert.
I'm about to do the job and was planning on following these instructions. Is there anything missing in them?

 

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Discussion Starter #9
The cable is good,the bar has some play. What gets me is in all the years of doing drum brakes ( I remember front drums) I have never seen groves in drum and shoes still have meat on em. I've seen parts come off and grove The drums but this is some crap.?????
 

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I also have an 04 Bull I did my rear brake shoes back about 6 months ago at 107k. . Old Drums were really stuck on, I replaced wheel cylinders, shoes, & drums with Ford/Motorcraft parts. They weren’t any more expensive than Oreillys or AutoZone. Haven’t had any issues so far.
 

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you might want to go to harbor fright or such and get a cheap laser
temp meter to read how hot the drums are getting.


those rear brakes should outlast the front ones by 2 to 4 to 1.


how worn are the front pads?
you have some kind of a brake bias issue or sticking cables
on the E brakes.


The most common cause for drums stuck on are the brake shoes

wearing a grove in the drums and you having to pull the drum
off with the shoes hitting the ridge. you have to adjust the brakes
all the way down to get them off and even then fight them.



bob
 

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I also have an 04 Bull I did my rear brake shoes back about 6 months ago at 107k. . Old Drums were really stuck on, I replaced wheel cylinders, shoes, & drums with Ford/Motorcraft parts. They weren’t any more expensive than Oreillys or AutoZone. Haven’t had any issues so far.
I also have an 04 and just put in, also at 107k miles, new drums, shoes, cylinders, hardware and adjusters.

I went with Ford / Motorcraft drums that I picked up from a nearby Ford dealer. I did consider Raybestos drums from rockauto at about half the price, but I decided not to take a chance on them being lower quality, or unseen damage during shipping, or dealing with any returns / warranty hassle if there were any problems.

For the shoes, I went with Centric heavy duty from Amazon as they had a great price and had as high a friction rating - FF - as any other shoes. When I went to install them, I got a very nice surprise as they are actually labelled GG.

All other parts I ordered online whichever brand had the best price which was always cheaper than Motorcraft especially the wheel cylinders from rockauto.

I'm very happy with the result. The braking is distributed very evenly between the front and back wheels now.
 
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