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When I got my 1994 Ford Taurus GL, the rear driver side window didn't work, but I knew that before I bought it. However, when I look at a lot of ebay auctions, I see a lot of the ones being sold, have the same exact window not working. So, I was wondering, is this just the most common window to break, and also, what usually fixes it, because when I press the switch at the driver seat, and the one at the actual door doesn't work either. So I was wondering, what the problem is most likely, and how hard a fix is it. All the other windows work, so I assume it isn't a wiring problem, but I could be wrong, I'm hoping it could just be a broken belt or a motor just needs to be replaced, because i could probably afford a motor. Thanks for any input.
 
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Ash, so you know, the front and rear window motors are the same. In a pinch, you could swap the pass side motors and have an operational front window.


On to the original question:

The only way to tell what's wrong with the window is to troubleshoot it. Start at the window motor plug and see if it's getting power. If it is, the motor's shot. If it's not, you'll need to trace back to find out where it's losing power. My guess would be the driver's switch panel if the motor's fine.
 

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Allrighty, I was thinkin on checking it today, so I'll test for voltage, if its getting plenty, then I know I'm gonna have to bid on one on ebay or something. I was just wondering if it was a common problem, because I've read tons of auctions on Taurus's with the same window broken.
 

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Originally posted by mrclean@Jan 17 2004, 09:01 PM
When I got my 1994 Ford Taurus GL, the rear driver side window didn't work, but I knew that before I bought it. However, when I look at a lot of ebay auctions, I see a lot of the ones being sold, have the same exact window not working. So, I was wondering, is this just the most common window to break, and also, what usually fixes it, because when I press the switch at the driver seat, and the one at the actual door doesn't work either. So I was wondering, what the problem is most likely, and how hard a fix is it. All the other windows work, so I assume it isn't a wiring problem, but I could be wrong, I'm hoping it could just be a broken belt or a motor just needs to be replaced, because i could probably afford a motor. Thanks for any input.
my both Rear windows are shot. that is ok because now it feels like a coupe
All it needs now it the "GT" logo for "Great Transportation"
 

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Niether of my rear windows work. My rear driver side has never worked since I bought the car and then the other one quit. The guy I bought my car off of said the switches were known to be faulty. My car is a gen 1 but it's possible that it was still a problem for your gen 2. Good luck with it.
 

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When I bought my '94 SHO, neither of the rear windows worked, so recently I decided to troubleshoot the problem. After the switches tested out fine, I pulled the motors and I found they were all corroded and siezed up. Below is a picture of what both of the rear window lift motors and door brackets looked like. Nasty, huh?


The good new is that I was able to salvage one of the motors by taking it apart and cleaning it with solvent and compressed air, freeing it up with some penetrating oil, and then applying a little white lithium grease to the gears before putting it back together. Not a very difficult job at all, just took a little time. The repaired unit has been working fine ever since, even during the cold and snow. But, as far as the other window lift motor, it was too far gone, so I bought a new one from AutoZone (in stock) for about 50 beans which comes with a lifetime warranty. I also ended up cleaning the bracket inside the door with solvent and a rag, and then I used a wire brush bit on a drill to get the rest of the rust off.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I took the Motor out of the door, found out it was totally seized, it took awhile to get it greased back up, plus the contacts were kinda screwed up, but eventually, the problem got fixed, but the motor is on its way out the door by the sound of it, but for now, I finally have all my windows working, I'm gonna have a motor on standby probably in case it finally just burns out. The trim piece was quite a pain..., however thank you, it was a time consuming job, but it turned out to be a simple job.
 

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I too have a passenger rear window on a 2003 Taurus that will not go down. There is power at the motor and I hear a click when the switch is pushed in either direction. This window is seldom used, so I went all around under the outside window molding to make sure the window is not stuck.
Someone said that by loosening the motor bolts, the window might free up. Is this the case?
If I try to take off just the motor, how is it done exactly? How do you disengage it from the regulator? Will the regulator move once the motor is removed? How do you get the motor realigned with the regulator when you reinstall it?
Are there certain lube points on the regulator that might need attention?
The Haynes book I have only talks about troubleshooting, not about removal.
Thanks for any help!
 
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