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I would suggest replacing the RCU.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
That's the plan as soon as I can get my money from work for the GB for the Tec UDP since we had some payroll issues so we swithed payroll companies.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Well still no luck finding a Mach Rcu yet, but I did go ahead and install my components (6.5" Alpine Type-X Ref's) in the front doors, and I'm working on fiberglassing the rear deck for a lil better look and sound, and of course I'll be putting in some Alpine 6x9's
 

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Ok, it looks like some clarification is needed here.

Your radio has two components to it. The head, located in the dashboard, and the RCU, located in the trunk on the driver's side, IIRC. The head contains all of the controls, and the tape deck or CD Player. The RCU contains the amplifier and the tuner.

Given your failure mode, there is a high likelihood that the issue lies with your RCU. They're relatively inexpensive at junk yards and on eBay. I'd start there before anything. Failing that, there's a smaller chance that you have a bad MLPS. If jiggling the gear selector, or changing between ranges allows the radio to work, then this could be the issue as well. I'm hesitant to say it's that however, as a MLPS failure is also accompanied by strange transmission and sometimes steering behaviors.
[/b]
My girlfriends 97 Sable wagon has this exact problem.

What is the MLPS?

How does it affect the speaker output for the radio?
 

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Is the MPLS the same as the Neutral Saftey Switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
<div class='quotemain'>
Ok, it looks like some clarification is needed here.

Your radio has two components to it. The head, located in the dashboard, and the RCU, located in the trunk on the driver's side, IIRC. The head contains all of the controls, and the tape deck or CD Player. The RCU contains the amplifier and the tuner.

Given your failure mode, there is a high likelihood that the issue lies with your RCU. They're relatively inexpensive at junk yards and on eBay. I'd start there before anything. Failing that, there's a smaller chance that you have a bad MLPS. If jiggling the gear selector, or changing between ranges allows the radio to work, then this could be the issue as well. I'm hesitant to say it's that however, as a MLPS failure is also accompanied by strange transmission and sometimes steering behaviors.
[/b]
My girlfriends 97 Sable wagon has this exact problem.

What is the MLPS?

How does it affect the speaker output for the radio?
[/b][/quote]


It didn't affect it at all. my dad brought home a company vehicle the other night while his truck was bein worked on and the car just so happened to be a 2002 taurus so when I came home I switched the RCU's to check if that was the problem and it was, the radio worked perfectly. But since it was a company vehicle I put the RCU back in the taurus. Now I can't seem to fine a mach RCU in any junk yards around here. Does any one have one they could part with?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks but no thanks I already have a regular one and that's why I'm looking for a mach RCU like I use to have b/c these things don't even compare to each other.
 

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I'm having the same problem. Except i bought a dash kit and installed it with my alpine Head unit. I did all the wiring that the dash kit told me to do but when i plug in the speaker wiring harness into the harness that is plugged into the RCU no sound comes out of the speakers. I can't for the life of me figure out what is going on or how to fix it.
 

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I drive a 2013 Ford Taurus SEL 3.5L V6.

I recently ran into an issue where I got into my Taurus and started it....and my radio was not working.

It showed that I was connected to a channel (103.5 here in pittsburgh) but I could not get any sound.

I also tried using my Bluetooth Device but I still had no sound.



After reading a plethora of forums here online, many pointed to a new ACM.



Though through troubleshooting a few things on my own - I seem to have fixed the issue.

1) I made sure my SYNC system was updated to the latest release (didn't fix)

2) I tried adjusting Sound settings (didn't fix)

3) I tried turning the car off an on multiple times. This did not fix the issue either.



I was able to fix the issue however by using a longshot tactic that I learned in electronics and my Network Communication classes.

While sitting in my car, I locked it fully (using my key-fob) until I heard the 'beep'. Then, I unlocked the car with my fob and started my car normally (push to start in this case) and my sound magically started working.
I have also found (because this happened more than once) that using my Remote Start also fixed the issue. Though this could point to needing a new ACM in the future, it seems to work successfully for me right now.


There are many other tactics to remedying this issue. You can remove the battery for multiple hours to make sure it is completely drained and then try to reapply, you can attempt to reset a fuse (remove and reinsert) but it is recommended that these only be done if you are aware and familiar with what you are doing. If you are untrained, or are unsure of exactly what you are doing, it is always best to contact a Ford Support Team member before delving into deeper issues than you may already have.



I hope this post may be able to help somebody out there.
 

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I saw 3 or 4 Mach RCU's at Pull-a-part just last week when I was down there scavenging. They charge $18 for them.
I have a spare one right now that I've been using for testing, but if you're really in need I could part with it and just pick up another next time I'm in the junkyard?

Let's do diagnostics on the radio first.
Turn the system on, and have it in AM or FM mode. Hold down buttons 3 and 6 simultaneously for a few seconds. The ICP will stop whatever it was doing and show "SP" on the display, and now it's in self-diagnostic mode.

Press button 1 now, and it will run a self-test, and flash SELF while it's doing it. When it stops flashing, you can hit the "tune up" button to show any error codes. It only has six:
0 No DTCs logged
1 No response from RCU
2 No response from cassette player
4 No response from CD player
7 No response from remote climate control
9 ROM Verification failed (memory/circuit related error)​
Buttons 2 and 3 read off feature or product variant codes, not really relevant here.

Button 4 however, is the RCU self-test. Unfortunately it's not exactly all that great a test, it just verifies functionality of some of the ROM and EEPROM chips inside it. It's something though. After hitting button 4, you should get another code on the panel telling you what the RCU found. Code "F" means everything passed. I've attached a chart with the codes.

Button 5 then tests the ICP display panel itself. (probably useless)

If everything passes, it still sounds like it's the RCU, but I'd get our the multi-meter and test some of the important wires to be sure, as it would be really annoying to drop in a new RCU and still get no sound due to a cut circuit somewhere or something.


The most relevant I think should be:

At the ICP harness -
- pin 4 (green w/ black stripe) - should have voltage (12V+) when system is on (this is factory remote turn-on equivalent)
At the RCU harnesses -
- lefthand harness ("a") - pin 14 thick gauge yellow wire - should be 12V+ at all times.
- middle harness ("b") - pin 17 red w/orange stripe - should be 12V+ in start, park, and neutral.
- pin 2 - other end of audio-system-on again, green w/ blk stripe
- pins 1 & 15 (blue w/pink & tan) - check that there's about 4v between these two. This is the CAN ACP bus from the ICP. If this bus is disrupted, the RCU would never get the commands from the ICP to change channels, turn vol up, etc. Tan wire is negative.

Here's a pinout of all the harnesses with more description in case you want to test other circuits: https://drive.google.com/open?id=11q65_WljUlR802ka5NLskQ6H_bdnoi8Y
The colors are sometimes slightly different in some years I've found, put the pin locations seem to stay consistent.


Edit: typoed a number.
 

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Just found something strange. I ran the self-diags routine on my own car, just on a whim, and my RCU actually came back with a code 7, stereo var.
Everything works fine though. My first thought is that the RCU and ICP are matched at the factory, probably "stereo var" is the static variable in the EEPROM that holds a model identifier for that particular ICP. And since my current RCU came from a car with a tape deck, and I have the CD deck, they are different model codes.


I may have to dig into this EEPROM business now, find a reader and see what all is stored on this chip.
 
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