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Hi everyone.
Gonna have to replace my radiator in my 3.0 L OHV. Groan!! I just replaced the bottom rad hose and it was a nightmare compared to all other lower rad hoses that I have replaced and I have done a 340 Swinger in -40 weather and I would have rather do that again.
I found that what I had to do was remove the air dam and pull the old hose out. It is a bugger to squeeze the clamp open, hold back the plastic fender skirt and pull on the hose at the same time. There is a line bracket in front of the hose where it goes into the pump and it helps to remove the nut and swing the bracket out of the road. I used screw clamps on the new hose. To put the hose on to the water pump, I used a tiny bit of Vaseline on the inside of the hose, pried back the plastic fender skirt and was able to shove it on to the water pump with a bit of moaning and groaning. The rest of it was just the fun of doing up way too many bolts and screws on greasy parts in places that were hard to reach, while laying underneath a car. I was so happy once it was done.
One week later, I find water leaking down above the petcock, on the other side from the hose. I am guessing about the rad as it was dark out when I found the leak.
I have a tip that I got from a trucker that they use for cracked blocks and they need a fix that will last for a year or 2. It is a ceramic motor seal called Weldtight that I got from Lordco in Canada. You follow the directions on the jug, basically pour it into a hot rad, drive it for 3 days, drain the rad and let it sit overnight to let the patch set up.
I used it on a 93 Taurus with an Essex 3.0L that had a cracked head and it leaked so badly that I had to stop every 15 miles and fill up the water. I was going to scrap the car but I decided to try that stuff first as it only cost about 15 bucks. I used the Weldtight and I drove it for 3 years like that without a leak. It started leaking again after that and I tried the Weldtight but it only lasted for 4 or 5 months that time. Just after that, somebody ran into the back of my car and the insurance company scrapped it. I was so depressed to see it scrapped. LOL
If you decide to try this stuff, there is one thing to do that isn't in the directions. Have about a gallon of hot water standing by and pour about half of the jug of Weldtight into the expansion bottle with the engine running. Fill the Weldtight bottle with hot water, put the lid on it, shake it up well, pour half of it out and do it again 5 or 6 times. If you don't do this, you end up with a thick goo in the bottom of the jug that is a bitch to deal with. As I poured the stuff in, I poured a bit of water in the expansion bottle to rinse the stuff out of the expansion bottle and into the system. So, you have to have about a gallon of water drained out of your system before you start on putting the Weldtight in and the water in the system should be hot. One other thing that you should do is after you have the leak fixed, pull out the thermostat, wipe the ceramic seal off of it and put it back in. It wasn't necessary to do it, I just wanted to make sure that it didn't set up and stop the thermostat from working as it should.
I digressed for what I wanted ask. Does anyone have any tips for rad replacement in a 99 3.0L OHV? I want to use a more permanent fix than the Weldtight as I plan on driving it for quite a while yet. What size line removal tool do I need? Given the location of the leak (driver's side, somewhere above the petcock) is there anywhere else that it could be coming from? Does anybody want to fix it for me for free beer and pizza, especially any intelligent, beautiful, female mechanics?
 

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Hi everyone.
Gonna have to replace my radiator in my 3.0 L OHV. Groan!! I just replaced the bottom rad hose and it was a nightmare compared to all other lower rad hoses that I have replaced and I have done a 340 Swinger in -40 weather and I would have rather do that again.

I digressed for what I wanted ask. Does anyone have any tips for rad replacement in a 99 3.0L OHV? I want to use a more permanent fix than the Weldtight as I plan on driving it for quite a while yet. What size line removal tool do I need? Given the location of the leak (driver's side, somewhere above the petcock) is there anywhere else that it could be coming from? Does anybody want to fix it for me for free beer and pizza, especially any intelligent, beautiful, female mechanics?
There aint no free lunch on a gen 3. It comes out from the bottom.
So the lower air dam and brackets holding the radiator have to come out.
remove the cooling fans. remove the radiator hoses. CUss a little and move
on. save some cussing for when you remove the trannie cooler lines. get
a set of plastic line removal tools. You probably wont be able to get
the metal ones to work on the trannie lines. The job would be a lot easier
with the AC and PS pump out of the way, but you probably dont want to
go there. Make sure the car is up in the air high enough to fully pull
the radiator out from the bottom. (jacks stands on the unibody rails
just behind the front subframe)

As far as the leak goes, it usually one of two things: either a cracked side
tank, or a bad seal where the side tank is crimped to the core. Your sure
the petcock is NOT where its leaking?
 

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Did mine rcently. 10 miles after new water pump & tank it let go. Got a new radiator thru ebay for less than $70. Hardest part was getting the lins off since my quik release tool didn't work. Not hard at all. Use topic search for write ups.
 

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hi,

I always have a hard time reinstalling the upper trans cooler line into the new
radiator.

I use a Vise Grip #4LW to gently hold the line in place while I apply a gentle push
and it clicks right into place the first time.

Regards
 

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Realize this post is old and no one may see this, but wondering if gen 4? Do see the 3L ohv mention. My well-intentioned neighbor offered to lift my battery out of the tray and place it in my car while I went to work on removing tray and the upper radiator hose where connected to radiator.

I knew it was too heavy for me at the angle sitting from prior attempts to save money by putting in my own, so I welcomed the help. I spent several days searching for the right clamp removal tools not just for that job, but as investment in the future and proudly showed him my new tools when asked what the task was.

He wanted to give the newest one (with a long-reaching cord) a try, so fine. Instead, he apparently YANKED it out, breaking off the plastic male hose attaching end, leaving me with a >$500 repair!!

I've looked at radiators, and see there is no way to "snap on that portion that attaches to the radiator" as he believes.

Another TCA thread showed that Gen 4 ohv's radiator's can be removed with only 2 jackstands and a vise grip designed for line nuts to remove and reattach the tranny cooler line(s?).

If anyone sees this, can plse advise? Written up for the car now being in "repair" for several days as didn't plan on this, must use the bus, and definitely not in my budget.
 

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Yes, I bought a set of 5 hose clamp pliers some of which are angled to assist in removing this particular hose, as well as a flexible, long-reach pair for the task. Which is why I was shocked when he yanked it out, but I should have said thanks, I'll take it from here after he lifted the heavy battery out for me. He was only trying to help.
The lower radiator hose was really old, but easy to remove because I spray the hoses with WD-40, let set, loosen and wriggle the clamps, pry the set hoses a bit, then spray again, gently twist, then let set overnight if still obstinate. I couldn't even reach that upper hose w/the WD-40 nozzle attachment bc of the angle.
I'm so relieved to hear you say a flare nut wrench will do for the tranny cooler line on the radiator! The shops and another guy in the neighborhood (who want to charge $150 labor for radiator) say only a special tool ($120 and they don't rent it out) is safe enough for removal / install. I bought a set of flare nut wrenches, though pretty small, for the power steering line in order to access the pump.
Is there anything else you suggest I need for the removal? I'll have to do it at night bc need to raise on jackstands which isn't allowed in my property agreement.
Thank you for the details on the hoses.
 

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I did not need to remove the fans on my '99 wagon or Sable.
Use the Lisle 39660 tool to remove the transmission lines from radiator or transmission.
Do use some string to hold up the a/c coil assembly from the top so it will not drop down with the radiator.

 
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