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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 94 Sable 3.8 engine needs a new radiator. I'm going to do this on Saturday so I thought I would ask for some help today.
The biggest problem I can see is how to get the trans cooler lines off.
Any other tricks I should be aware of.
Thanks
 

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Since I have changed the Radiator in my 94 3.0 three times over the year's, the cooler lines are the worst part. You will find a rubber hose attached to a small metal cooler line with a clamp, disconnect there and leave the cooler lines attached to the Radiator. You can then use a 1/2 inch line wrench to just loosen the metal line where they attached to the Radiator, which makes it easier to manauver out, then you can remove the cooling fan. Just remember to install those lines and leave loose to re-install, and tighten once you have the rubber lines connected. JMHO, this is the way my Taurus is. Be sure and check the BIG SILVER NUT that holds the cooler in the Radiator, they are a PITA to tighten with the Radiator installed. Good luck, hope this helps.
david :unsure:
 

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I had to replace the trans line disconects on my '94 when I did the radiator, they didn't reseal and where seeping trans fluid. Was a dealer stock item six years ago.
 

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Worst part is the tans cooler lines, especially the lower one.

The battery will need to come out to get eonough clearance to remove/install the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
it is now 2 hours to get the old radiator out.We are taking a break and then putting the new one in. The hardest part so far was getting it up high enough to get the trans line off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
it took 4 hours to do. This is not an easy job. If Ford had provided 2 " inches more clearance and put the trans cooler lines on the back of the radiator instead of the side we could have done this in half the time.
I have changed 5 in tank fuel pumps in 5 vehicles and I would much rather do those then this. In my opinion it really helps to have 2 people and if you are not a pretty good shade tree mechanic then pay a pro to do it.
 

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X-mission lines are the worst for sure. When you go to put it back make sure that you put the adapter fittings in first then start the flare nuts in to start then you will have enough wiggle room to get them tight. Make sure to tighten the adapter fittings and use tape or some pipe dope to seal them first. The lower one is a PITA and is just going to take a while, suck it up and be patient.

Make sure that your front motor mount is in good shape as well. Mine was bad and caused the lower hose to pull on the rad to the point that it started uncrimping the aluminum from the plastic tank. It's also easier to change the mount with the Rad out.

Jeff
 

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hi,

use Lisle #39400 disconnect tool, the blue one in the set,
works like a charm.

Now here is the real problem, reinserting the upper transmission line
into the radiator, not a lot of room for the hands and you need to insert it
straight into the fitting or you will have a leak.

Have a tip to share with everyone, get a vise grip #4LW,
slip it onto the cooler line, not too tight, you do not want to
crush the line, just hold it so you have leverage to keep it straight.

Slip it back into the fitting on the radiator, it will slide it so easy!

Don't forget to reattach the stainless steel keeper discs, they have
barbs 180 deg. on the disc.

Regards
 

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