I need guidance soon I’m gonna replace it but it’s has started leaking this green **** when it was leaking yellow **** before. Do I need to worry
Yea I check thes hoses they where all okay and yea I’m gonna tackle it in a few days it doesn’t seem hard knowing that I have a lift in tools. My only worry was that at first it was leaking the 50/50 fluid. Now it’s leaking only the green fluid do I need to worry or they are the same thingAre you sure the leak is not coming from a hose and not the radiator?
Assuming the leak is from the radiator, it is likely coming from the rubber seal (square O ring seal) between the radiator and the radiator side tanks. If this is the case, replace the radiator. It comes out from the bottom.
Thanks manReplacing the radiator is largely as mentioned in Haynes 3.5 (page 3-4). For the 2000 model you neither need to take off the bumper nor the hood latch.
The radiator is integrated with the ATF cooler. This is a TYC 1830:
Front: View attachment 219008 Back: View attachment 219007
You will have to detach 2 coolant hoses and 2 ATF lines.
The radiator needs to be removed from underneath the car.
The A/C condenser is in front of the radiator and bolted onto it with 4 bolts.
- The height of the radiator is 42 cm = 16.5 inch.
- So the car needs to be jacked up far enough so that the bottom of the radiator is that high from the ground.
- A little less in fact because the last few inches you can rotate the radiator towards the back of the car.
There is a large bracket underneath the lower (right) radiator outlet.
- The upper two can be reached through the special holes in the front.
- The lower two can be reached through the upper vent of the bumper (and also from below).
- The lower right bolt is also used to attach the power steering cooler (see below).
- The fifth bolt (lower left) is for the other side of the power steering cooler.
View attachment 219009
It is held in place with 4 bolts. No idea what the function of that bracket is.
The click connections of the ATF lines can be loosened with a 3/8" tool.
- Either way, you need to remove it.
- After that you can take the coolant hose off the radiator outlet.
- To take off the coolant hose from the radiator inlet (upper left) you unfortunately need to remove the battery and its tray first.
Line itself: View attachment 219010 Tool: View attachment 219011
The most difficult is the one in the picture which is the upper connection.
The radiator is held in place by 4 plastic posts on the radiator that go through 4 large rubber grommets.
- The lower one is easy once you lowered the radiator.
- You need to loosen the lower ATF line from the frame first though (just a plastic clip).
Grommets: View attachment 219012 They are marked LH and RH. Relative to the radiator:
- The upper grommets are fixed.
- The lower grommets are in special brackets you have to remove.
Left: View attachment 219013 Right: View attachment 219014
Now the radiator can be lowered.
- Lower the radiator until you can reach the lower ATF connection and detach that too.
- I took off the grille (with the Ford logo) so I could reach the condenser by hand to move it when needed.
- This is also needed for the following step.
- After I took out the old radiator, I pulled the condenser up and to the front with 2 iron wires.
- They go through the special holes in the front, through the holes in the condenser where the bolts go and back to where the grille was.
- This way you are not fighting both the radiator and the condenser while installing the radiator.
- While pushing up the new radiator make sure the rubber linings between the radiator and the frame stay where they are supposed to.