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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need guidance soon I’m gonna replace it but it’s has started leaking this green **** when it was leaking yellow **** before. Do I need to worry
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Are you sure the leak is not coming from a hose and not the radiator?

Assuming the leak is from the radiator, it is likely coming from the rubber seal (square O ring seal) between the radiator and the radiator side tanks. If this is the case, replace the radiator. It comes out from the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you sure the leak is not coming from a hose and not the radiator?

Assuming the leak is from the radiator, it is likely coming from the rubber seal (square O ring seal) between the radiator and the radiator side tanks. If this is the case, replace the radiator. It comes out from the bottom.
Yea I check thes hoses they where all okay and yea I’m gonna tackle it in a few days it doesn’t seem hard knowing that I have a lift in tools. My only worry was that at first it was leaking the 50/50 fluid. Now it’s leaking only the green fluid do I need to worry or they are the same thing
 

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I replaced the radiator on my 2000 Vulcan just a few weeks ago.
What year is your Taurus? I understand from the Haynes Manual (section 3.5 page 3-4) that 2000 and later models are a bit easier.

BTW: I do not fully understand the picture you posted. Did you already take off the front bumper, or am I not looking at the front the car?
 

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Replacing the radiator is largely as mentioned in Haynes 3.5 (page 3-4). For the 2000 model you neither need to take off the bumper nor the hood latch.

The radiator is integrated with the ATF cooler. This is a TYC 1830:
Front: Rectangle Grille Wood Mesh Grey Back: Grille Rectangle Mesh Wood Grey
You will have to detach 2 coolant hoses and 2 ATF lines.

The radiator needs to be removed from underneath the car.
  • The height of the radiator is 42 cm = 16.5 inch.
    • So the car needs to be jacked up far enough so that the bottom of the radiator is that high from the ground.
    • A little less in fact because the last few inches you can rotate the radiator towards the back of the car.
The A/C condenser is in front of the radiator and bolted onto it with 4 bolts.
  • The upper two can be reached through the special holes in the front.
  • The lower two can be reached through the upper vent of the bumper (and also from below).
    • The lower right bolt is also used to attach the power steering cooler (see below).
  • The fifth bolt (lower left) is for the other side of the power steering cooler.
There is a large bracket underneath the lower (right) radiator outlet.
Light Bumper Automotive tire Automotive lighting Surveillance camera
It is held in place with 4 bolts. No idea what the function of that bracket is.
  • Either way, you need to remove it.
    • After that you can take the coolant hose off the radiator outlet.
  • To take off the coolant hose from the radiator inlet (upper left) you unfortunately need to remove the battery and its tray first.
The click connections of the ATF lines can be loosened with a 3/8" tool.
Line itself: Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Rim Automotive wheel system Tool: Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Auto part Rim
The most difficult is the one in the picture which is the upper connection.
  • The lower one is easy once you lowered the radiator.
    • You need to loosen the lower ATF line from the frame first though (just a plastic clip).
The radiator is held in place by 4 plastic posts on the radiator that go through 4 large rubber grommets.
  • The upper grommets are fixed.
  • The lower grommets are in special brackets you have to remove.
Grommets: Rectangle Material property Font Camera accessory Lighter They are marked LH and RH. Relative to the radiator:
Left: Automotive tire Grille Camera lens Reflex camera Digital camera Right: Light Automotive tire Household hardware Gas Auto part

Now the radiator can be lowered.
  • Lower the radiator until you can reach the lower ATF connection and detach that too.
Miscellaneous
  • I took off the grille (with the Ford logo) so I could reach the condenser by hand to move it when needed.
    • This is also needed for the following step.
  • After I took out the old radiator, I pulled the condenser up and to the front with 2 iron wires.
    • They go through the special holes in the front, through the holes in the condenser where the bolts go and back to where the grille was.
    • This way you are not fighting both the radiator and the condenser while installing the radiator.
  • While pushing up the new radiator make sure the rubber linings between the radiator and the frame stay where they are supposed to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Replacing the radiator is largely as mentioned in Haynes 3.5 (page 3-4). For the 2000 model you neither need to take off the bumper nor the hood latch.

The radiator is integrated with the ATF cooler. This is a TYC 1830:
Front: View attachment 219008 Back: View attachment 219007
You will have to detach 2 coolant hoses and 2 ATF lines.

The radiator needs to be removed from underneath the car.
  • The height of the radiator is 42 cm = 16.5 inch.
    • So the car needs to be jacked up far enough so that the bottom of the radiator is that high from the ground.
    • A little less in fact because the last few inches you can rotate the radiator towards the back of the car.
The A/C condenser is in front of the radiator and bolted onto it with 4 bolts.
  • The upper two can be reached through the special holes in the front.
  • The lower two can be reached through the upper vent of the bumper (and also from below).
    • The lower right bolt is also used to attach the power steering cooler (see below).
  • The fifth bolt (lower left) is for the other side of the power steering cooler.
There is a large bracket underneath the lower (right) radiator outlet.
View attachment 219009
It is held in place with 4 bolts. No idea what the function of that bracket is.
  • Either way, you need to remove it.
    • After that you can take the coolant hose off the radiator outlet.
  • To take off the coolant hose from the radiator inlet (upper left) you unfortunately need to remove the battery and its tray first.
The click connections of the ATF lines can be loosened with a 3/8" tool.
Line itself: View attachment 219010 Tool: View attachment 219011
The most difficult is the one in the picture which is the upper connection.
  • The lower one is easy once you lowered the radiator.
    • You need to loosen the lower ATF line from the frame first though (just a plastic clip).
The radiator is held in place by 4 plastic posts on the radiator that go through 4 large rubber grommets.
  • The upper grommets are fixed.
  • The lower grommets are in special brackets you have to remove.
Grommets: View attachment 219012 They are marked LH and RH. Relative to the radiator:
Left: View attachment 219013 Right: View attachment 219014

Now the radiator can be lowered.
  • Lower the radiator until you can reach the lower ATF connection and detach that too.
Miscellaneous
  • I took off the grille (with the Ford logo) so I could reach the condenser by hand to move it when needed.
    • This is also needed for the following step.
  • After I took out the old radiator, I pulled the condenser up and to the front with 2 iron wires.
    • They go through the special holes in the front, through the holes in the condenser where the bolts go and back to where the grille was.
    • This way you are not fighting both the radiator and the condenser while installing the radiator.
  • While pushing up the new radiator make sure the rubber linings between the radiator and the frame stay where they are supposed to.
Thanks man
 

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One seemingly unimportant but irritant little detail:

The lower right bolt that attaches the condenser and the power-steering cooler to the radiator might be difficult to get in. You can only reach that bolt through the upper air vent in the front bumper and the hoses for the power-steering cooler are in the way. I did this as follows:
  • Push the detached power-steering cooler to the left side so its hoses are out of the way and you can reach the hole where the bolt has to go.
  • Loosen the left and the two upper bolts of the condenser (if you tightened them already) so there is enough play.
  • Align the condenser and the radiator so you can temporarily put the lower right bolt in.
  • Wiggle the condenser to make sure there is enough play.
  • Tighten the other three bolts so the condenser can no longer move.
  • Take out the lower right bolt again. The holes in the condenser and radiator should stay aligned.
  • Move the power-steering cooler back to its place and loosely put in the fifth (lower left) bolt. The power-steering cooler is more or less in place now.
  • Put the lower right bolt through the hole in the power-steering cooler bracket by hand from below.
  • Push a long handle with a size 8 socket through the upper air vent in the bumper onto the bolt while pushing the hose of the power steering to the side.
  • Finally push the bolt into the - still aligned - holes of the condenser and radiator and screw it in.
It you have the car on a lift, you have much more room and you might be able to rotate the power steering cooler downwards and put in the lower right bolt in first.
 
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