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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple of weeks ago my car wouldn't start. No clicking no cranking no nothing but the bells and lights came on. Turn the key a second time and it started. I have a John Deere 425 that has to be primed before it starts because the engine runs a few seconds after shut off to burn the carb clean. So I am familiar with letting a fuel pump run before starting an engine but the Taurus has never needed this priming before. Anyway, as long as I turn the key on enough to set the bells and lights off then wait until I hear the pump quit running before cranking all the way down it starts first try every time. If I jump in and crank the key all the way down without this "priming" it won't start about half the time until I back off and turn the key a second time?

Is this a fuel line/pump/filter issue -- any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I found this post on a thread about IAC valves. Sounds exactly like what I'm doing to start my car and I have had some rough idle issues along with stumbling around 2000 rpms. I bought some MAF cleaner to address the stumbling but I think I'll give my IAC a look while I'm at it.
 

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Sounds like the fuel system is loosing pressure after it is turned off. There is a check valve (anti backflow velve) in the pump itself that is supposed to hold pressure in the system for quite a while. Not unheard of for the valve in the pump to leak, allowing rapid bleed down of fuel pressure. Get a mechanical pressure gauge on the rail and see how fast pressure bleeds off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Jeff
I'm changing the pcv valve and cleaning the MAF this weekend. I'l see if I can get a pressure gauge on the rail while I'm at it. Much appreciated.
 

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I had a similar problem with a 99tec. Delayed cold starts. Fuel pressure regulator on the rail wasnt holding pressure overnight allowing fuel to return back to the tank. Like you, key primes in the a.m. worked until i replaced fpr. Also, sometimes when its diaphragm fails, it will suck fuel from its vac. line into to the manifold making car run rough. Might pull its vac. hose and look and smell for evidence of fuel.
 

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^^^^ I have seen those FPR problems several times (loosing pressure / leaking diaphram letting gas into the intake) with the older return style systems, but 2000+ are the newer returnless systems. Since the returnless systems dont return fuel to the tank, pressure cant bleed off the rail that way. I have yet to see, or hear of, the rail sensor in a returnless system blowing a diaphram and leaking gas into the intake, but that doesnt mean it cant happen.

A leaking injector could also bleed off pressure, but if it was that, engine would run rough initially, likely with a puff of black smoke or 2 after initial start. BTDT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
T - Pretty sure I have a little vacuum leak, when I changed the plugs I changed intake gaskets and could see the vacuum connections were wambly. Not cracked or collapsed but loose and wobbly. I'll be changing them out this weekend along with the pcv valve. RPMs are around 650 at warm idle so I'm hoping some tighter fittings will kick that up a notch. Thanks much!

Thanks Sheila, I'm glad to know someone else has had this issue. I'll have to add fpr to the list of things to check.

Jeff - I don't think I have a leaky injector, changed the o-rings when I changed intake gaskets and don't smell gas when the engine's running. Car runs well at start up, no puffs of smoke. rpms around 1500 at cold start. Wish me luck and thanks again!
 

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^^^^ I have seen those FPR problems several times (loosing pressure / leaking diaphram letting gas into the intake) with the older return style systems, but 2000+ are the newer returnless systems. Since the returnless systems dont return fuel to the tank, pressure cant bleed off the rail that way. I have yet to see, or hear of, the rail sensor in a returnless system blowing a diaphram and leaking gas into the intake, but that doesnt mean it cant happen.

A leaking injector could also bleed off pressure, but if it was that, engine would run rough initially, likely with a puff of black smoke or 2 after initial start. BTDT.
What about my 97 Duratec that appears to have just an accumulator (no vacuum line)? I can't find a pressure regulator on it, unless I'm missing it.
 

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^^^^^ Good question.... I have worked on gen 1 and gen 2 Vulcans, Essex, and a few SHOs, and worked on gen 4 Vulcans and Tecs, but never really worked much on any gen 3 cars. With that said, I am 99.99% certain that Ford didnt go to returnless systems on the Taurus/Sable until the gen4 redesign starting with 2000 MY. Your gen3 should be a return type system. In later years the mechanical regulators got much smaller than the original ones from the 80s, and some were really burried under the intake, making them really hard to see.

Even the returnless systems with the electronic pressure sensor on the rail have a vac line going to them to provide a vac referenced pressure signal to the FDM.
 

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WJC, I have 98 & 99 tecs, and all 5 have fprs on the fuel rail in front on the drivers side. A little brass or silver cannister with a vac. line (runs along side egr vac. line) and 2 torx cap mount bolts. Never stuck my head under a 96 or 97 tec, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK, sorry I didn't get back after the weekend work on the car but it has taken me this long to get dug out and back on the net ... ugh. Anyway, quirky ignition turned out to be a very simple fix. Although they looked shinny and felt tight, the battery cable (positive) was corroded underneath the clamp. I couldn't see the corrosion until I took the cable off, it was not making good contact. Cleaned up the post and clamp and ignition trouble seems to be resolved. Now, I have a new problem. I wanted to replace all the vacuum lines and I got the big PCV valve hose/tube/elbow finished but what the heck are the two tubes coming off the crankcase and in near the MAF housing called? I need the rubber elbows that attach the tube to the intake manifold one in front and one in back. My tubes still draw air but the elbows are rotting and spongy. I've tried every term I can think of and no search comes up with this part. I'm guessing they are sold as one piece elbow + tube like the PCV tube with elbow but I would be happy with just the elbows. I can make them from step downs and such but if there is a name for this part I would rather get the real Motorcraft replacement than patch something together. Anyone know what they are called? In the Chilton's manual they are referred to as crank case vent tubes but a search for that term yields nothing like what I am looking for ... ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How right you are sheila!
Found a couple of Dorman PCV elbows for $7.00 each at Advanced Auto. That did the trick.
Thanks much.
 
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