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2005 Ford Taurus SE Sedan 3.0L
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Discussion Starter #1
Was searching through all the threads I could find, and got slightly confused by all the different types and part numbers, and I'm sorry for bringing up a top that's probably been beaten to death over and over again.

I have an 05 Taurus with the Vulcan (Gas not the FFV) and I was planning on changing the plugs and wires since it looks like it's not too big of a challenge, just a lot of reaching and feeling behind the UIM with extensions, though I might pull it too since I need to do the valve cover gaskets at some point.

But anyways, my question is, all I see on rock auto or even ford parts for plugs for the car are the SP413 and from what I can tell they aren't DP, and from what I've read if I understand correctly due to the waste you want DP, is there an alternative MC plug that is DP that you should use in the Vulcan motor as well or do I have to go different brand to get DP? The only other I saw was the SP500 I believe, and it looked like that is only for the FFV, or are the SP413s good enough just shorter intervals for changes?

Sorry for bringing up a dragged out topic again, just wanted to double check after reading so many different posts.

Appreciate any help!
 

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NGK Iridium.
 
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^+1. NGK Iridium #7397 @ $5.74/plug @ Rockauto. NGK also offers a 2-platinum @ Rockauto, but they are more expensive, #6579 @ $7.43/plug. If budget-minded and money is an issue, the single plat. NGK #3186 @ $2.35/ea. would be fine. Iirc, single plat. was oem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Appreciate the responses, I had been kinda leaning towards NGK, but wasn't sure if it was better to get the SP413s and stay OEM Motorcraft (can pick up 6 for about 24$) or go with NGK, but looks like I will go with the NGK and probably NGK wires to save a lil bit of money, just to kinda keep the same brand of wires and plugs.

I know most everyone here has done their own plugs, any recommendations from personal experience for the right extensions, etc for grabbing those rear plugs? I know it's all pretty much by feel, and thankfully I'm small enough I can get up in the engine bay, lol. I see U joints recommended and not recommended for getting around the EGR, and maybe some kind of hose that can slip pretty tight over the plug to twist it or, or would the magnetic sockets be good enough?
 

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I install/thread by hand using a piece of fuel/vac. hose. When the hose slips, I grab the ratchet. I also dielectric grease all boots using a q-tip and apply a dab of anti-seize on the plug threads. On a Vulcan, you can do it by feel/blind.
 

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^^^^ +1 on using piece of vac line to get plugs started and using anti seize and dielectric grease. Impossible to cross thread them that way. After owning several Vulcans over the years I can do a plug change in half an hour these days.
 
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Whatever you use, inspect them for things like what is in the pic. Gap should be close but you likely do more harm than good trying to regap. Spark plug socket has foam rubber gripper to hold the plug in place but not so tight as to break it if not aligned perfectly.
-chart-
^^^^ +1 on using piece of vac line to get plugs started and using anti seize and dielectric grease. Impossible to cross thread them that way. After owning several Vulcans over the years I can do a plug change in half an hour these days.
Might I add. Blow off dirt and such before removing the old plugs. Anti seize on the threads but keep off the ends. Spark plug grease on the inside of the boot makes it water tight and keeps the rubber from welding to the ceramic. Pic of extensions necessary for the Lin Cont. No need for hose to install. The plug wrench just glides down the tube with the plug aligned. I put masking tape on the first extension to the socket. On the rear bank, only enough room to add one extension at a time and VERY deep reach to the head. Vulcan is easy.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice, thanks for the info, gonna pick up a set of the GearwWrench extensions when I get ready to do the plugs, I don't really have an air compressor of anything of that nature to really blow dirt away, so any suggestions for how to blow off the dirt and all, especially on the back side since It's all reach by hand?

I've seen it mentioned a few places all over the boards with differing suggestions, but since I'm going to need to do an oil change really soon and brakes at some point in the future as well, which is better for oil changes, jack stands or ramps? I've thought a set of those rhino ramps would probably be good enough for oil changes. But as for jack stands and stuff, I already have a really good jack, but where would you recommend jacking a bull and placing the stands?

I've seen people say use the pinch welds with a foam block to jack it up, but where would you put the jack stands that would be sturdy and safe, or is there a better jack point and use the pinch welds for the stands? Mainly wanna get it lifted up safely and securely without doing any damage.
 

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Careful with getting ramps. I have a steel pair and plastic pair. The steel are too high and will hit the front fender before lifting the front. Plastic are just right. Look under the frame rail and find lifting points, gaps in the rail. They are the factory rec locations, and with car jack keep the jack top from sliding along the rail. Good idea to put a floor jack there also. As to safety, when I take a wheel off, I put it under the frame rail near the jack with a piece of 2X4 on the tire as a jack stand.
As to plug area cleaning, you can use a paint brush or can of "air" that is used on electronic blow off. You do not want any stuff falling into the plug hole.
-chart-
 

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^+1 on the canned air. You have 2 places for jack and stand in the front, the cradle (subframe) and the jack points (indents) behind the front tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks again, I will definitely pick up some compressed air before I do it, or if the price is right, might possibly pick up one of those lil 3 gallon 100psi pancake compressors and an extension from harbor freight, but I'll probably go the canned air route this time around.

Also going to go with the NGK plugs as was recommended, but I'm curious, what were the original plugs in these cars, double in back and single in front? Does anyone have the numbers for those plugs, just for the sake of curiosity on my part and because I've only ever seen single plat for these cars in MC brand so just really curious.

So I'm guessing the points under the car with, looking at the service manual (at least I think I'm looking at it correctly), I'm pretty sure this is what you meant, the red circles would probably the best jack points, and then the pinch welds (indents) with the lines are probably the best stand points? Should be safe to just use the jack with nothing on it, or should I get a piece of foam or something to not damage the bolt.

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The "coilpack" system fires 2 plugs off one coil, and fires them twice as often as needed. One plug has to be "reversed polarity" and Ford chose to put those in the back. So early on they put the premium plugs in the back where the plugs wear faster due to the reverse polarity. Then use the "CHEAP" ones in the front. That works as long as you do not switch them. So in replacement they want you to use the premium in both banks so you do not mess up. No idea what years they did that.
Pic of plugs OE in '01 all the same Double plats and you can see the rear is starting to fail. Ford rec for 100K is a good call.
-chart-
 

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