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I found this when looking for an S&B filter to purchase. Scroll down to the middle of this page to the item called Quick Cold. It looks like it solves the problem for those that want plug and play and don't want to make their own.
 

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It looks like one of those accel "cool blue" filter set-ups. But, what I don't get is why the filter is open like that. How is it a CAI if the filter is still allowed to suck in engine bay air? I'm not knocking it, I just don't get it.
 

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hey I dont want to knock anyones CAI but really if you people want better air flow why is everyone here using flex pipe and stuff. really the best way to go is to use solid pipes. All those ribs add turbulance and decrease air flow. Stop going cheap, Best way to get a CAI is to have some pipe mandrel bent then powder coated. Then you have a super smooth surface for the air to travel over and I guarantee you will get much better air flow that you will with dryer hose or that flexible plastic pipe. Wasnt someone working on making CAIs for us? Besides a nice powdercoated peice of pipe looks so much nicer in your engine bay, then you have something to show off, well it looks a lot better than flex pipe.
 

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Originally posted by madness_spirit@May 30 2004, 12:16 PM
Best way to get a CAI is to have some pipe mandrel bent then powder coated.
Where do I get something like that done? I have a gen2 3.8. I think those CAI where for another model
 

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Some exhaust shops can mandrel bend pipe. You probably wont find one to do it for you, but you might be able to buy some prebent pipe off them, then you just need to cut it then weld it back together to go the directions you want it to go. Then as far as powder coating goes, you can find a local custom bike shop and ask them about it, they will direct you to their favorite powder coaters, but like I said I think someone on this forum was making CAIs. Hopefully someone reads this post and remembers who. Still though if you want to change to CAI and you want to go cheap and easy, then at least use flexible dryer duct, at least it should flow better than those tubes. Maybe if you go by your local rice performance shop, you can find mandrel bent pipe to, and you might even find a guy who will put it all together for you and make your custom intake. Probably cost a bunch more, but trust me those tubes and filters are not worth near what they want for them
 

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Originally posted by madness_spirit@May 30 2004, 12:16 PM
hey I dont want to knock anyones CAI but really if you people want better air flow why is everyone here using flex pipe and stuff. really the best way to go is to use solid pipes. All those ribs add turbulance and decrease air flow. Stop going cheap, Best way to get a CAI is to have some pipe mandrel bent then powder coated. Then you have a super smooth surface for the air to travel over and I guarantee you will get much better air flow that you will with dryer hose or that flexible plastic pipe. Wasnt someone working on making CAIs for us? Besides a nice powdercoated peice of pipe looks so much nicer in your engine bay, then you have something to show off, well it looks a lot better than flex pipe.
We all know that the ribbed flex pipes can cause less flow. Most of us would love to go get some 3" mandrel bent stainless pipe and have them powder coated. The problem is, not all of us have money coming out of our ears, so we work with what we have. I don't know about everyone else, but if I had an extra $300 and some time it probably wouldn't get spent on the dream CAI (thanks to my ex-wife...b****). Even with flex pipes, it still ends up far better than stock.

I don't care if it looks show quality. I want the job to look good, but my goal isn't to show this car. It's to show every ricer with a fart can and ground effects that you still can't beat good ol' American horsepower.
 

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Point of the matter is, our engines (vulcan, duratec, essex, etc.) don't really suck as much air as anything a 3" pipe would fully allow to begin with. With that being said, you can use solid pipes, but then what's the point when the engine will breathe just as well with flex pipe tubing? If you want to free up the intake even more, I would P&P the upper and lower intakes, get a bigger TB and MAF, heck even a better exhaust, THEN would I start considering going all out on a "true" CAI system.
 

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Originally posted by 93taurusSX@Jun 1 2004, 11:21 AM
Point of the matter is, our engines (vulcan, duratec, essex, etc.) don't really suck as much air as anything a 3" pipe would fully allow to begin with. With that being said, you can use solid pipes, but then what's the point when the engine will breathe just as well with flex pipe tubing? If you want to free up the intake even more, I would P&P the upper and lower intakes, get a bigger TB and MAF, heck even a better exhaust, THEN would I start considering going all out on a "true" CAI system.
93taurusSX,

Not to hijack the thread or anything but what price can one expect to pay to have the intakes ported and polished?
 

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Actually my local ricer shop will make intake kits for under 200, and like I said you can usually aquire mandrel bent 2"-3" pieces to weld together later from your local ricer shop. 2.25 or 2.5 is usually more than big enough. BTW heads ported and polished will usually run you around $300-500. Personally I am waiting on doing those till I can track down some 2.5l SVT heads
 

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Actually the quick cold works just as good as a mandrel bent system. There is a lot of this talk about how a flex pipe will disrupt the airflow versus having a custom metal tubing in place is better. Not true. If you have a clean opening to the front of the grill and place a second flex pipe to insert into the front of the filter to face towards the incoming air, it will give it a RAM air type flow and it would work the same if not better. It won't matter how turbulent the airflow is. So even with a mandrel bent metal tubing, our upper air intakes will not allow for a smooth vortex type entry because of the stock design anyway. You would have to modify and replace the entire pendulum, replace the MAF, and some how enclose the filter like the way the Mustang and Contour SVT stock air box is if you wanted a true vortex intake system.

This is the secret that I’ve been holding on to for months now. I’ve only told Bob about this. I was holding out, because I was selling my own cold air intake and I was trying to make enough money to some how make the these type of cold air intakes for people to buy, but it’s much to costly to make from scratch. It would cost close to $10k for a mold to create a custom air box, versus using a stock mustang or contour svt air box. So here it is.

Here’s how to create the ultimate cold air intake. For you Vulcan owners, you will need to find a used Contour SVT air box (If you get lucky, you may find this in a auto junk yard or on ebay). Without any modification to the air box, you can use it in conjunction with your stock Vulcan MAF. All you need to do is attach a 3” or 3.5” flex tube and place it to the front lower driver side grill. There is a few plastic pieces that are blocking the entrance to remove to get the tube to the front grill. Find a used carbon fiber air duct that is used for brake cooling (this can be found at stock car racing shops or on ebay). With the air duct, you will need to get a hack saw to cut it down to size to fit in the lower grill and then drill a screw to the top to keep it in position so that it doesn’t blow around in high speeds. Also, what I did was take some unused mesh grill and covered the air duct so no large partials are sucked into the air box. The filter will do the rest. And no water ever gets into the air box.

For you SHO owners, you’ll need a stock Mustang GT air box (found in auto yards or it’s common on ebay for around $30). You can bolt it on to your stock MAF and attach a flex tube and place this to the front grill as you would do with the Vulcan set up. Granted, there is some modifying that you will need to do to the air box, because the intake tube is slanted downward on a Mustang GT. You would have to remove the tube and replace the tubing with the flex tubing in place of it. And, you will need to close off the opening with a fiberglass kit (best place to find a fiberglass kit is a Dupont paint store) and seal it so that no air will be sucked in from the engine compartment.

I don't have any pics to illustrate step by step photos, but If anyone tries this at home, I will be more than welcome to walk you through it if you need help. With this intake system, it will be a true cold and RAM intake system. It may cost you anywhere from $60 to $240 depending on where you get your materials from.

Unfortunetly no set up like this available for Duractec owners, because there isn't a 75mm MAF air box that is designed like the Contour or Mustang unless you upgrade your MAF to a 80mm. This would mean you would have to reflash your EEC to match the air flow difference.
 
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