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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Doing the BIG 3 today.

I already have a single inline ANL comming off the battery to amp rack.

Should I be putting a fuse inline between the alternator and battery pos+ as well?

I have seen several BIG 3 "how to" videos online and some do and some don't put a fuse between the alternator and batt+ post. But they always run one inline on the powerwire running to the trunk/amps ect...
 

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I think it comes down to what you're comfortable with.

The battery to amp wire is long, mainly hidden and in close proximity to ground along most of its length. Developing a problem in that wire leading to a short is not exactly improbable. So naturally, it is said (rightfully so) that wire NEEDS a fuse.

Under the hood you have a different set of circumstances. In some cars the wire's plainly visible, short, and easily routed and supported to avoid many risks of a short. In our cars it probably won't be that visible, and it's fairly long, but still it can be done in a way to reduce the odds of having a short.
I can understand why some people choose not to fuse it, and I probably won't when/if I get around to it.
If you want the peace of mind it would probably be a good idea to add the fuse.
 

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Doing the BIG 3 today.

I already have a single inline ANL comming off the battery to amp rack.

Should I be putting a fuse inline between the alternator and battery pos+ as well?

I have seen several BIG 3 "how to" videos online and some do and some don't put a fuse between the alternator and batt+ post. But they always run one inline on the powerwire running to the trunk/amps ect...
You already have a fuse between the battery and the wire to the alternator. 175 Amp.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You already have a fuse between the battery and the wire to the alternator. 175 Amp.

-chart-
I do? Where?

Also, should I be replacing the factory wire (Alt. to Batt) or just adding the 0awg to the stock setup for the big 3?

My orginal question was, do I need to put another ANL inline here?(Alt. to Batt.)
I have brand new Audiopipe 0 AWG copper wire that I am planning on running from the battery pos+ strait to the alternator pos+ output.
 

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If you are doing a big three it is always a good idea to fuse every power wire. Can never be to safe. So, in my opinion i would def put a fuse block on the power wire coming from the alt to the battery
 

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I do? Where?

Also, should I be replacing the factory wire (Alt. to Batt) or just adding the 0awg to the stock setup for the big 3?

My orginal question was, do I need to put another ANL inline here?(Alt. to Batt.)
I have brand new Audiopipe 0 AWG copper wire that I am planning on running from the battery pos+ strait to the alternator pos+ output.

sorry just read this after i posted lol. the big three you are going to replace the wire from alt to batt and all grounds to include, chassis ground to motor, and battery ground to chassis. they all obviously need to be 0g. fuse the 0g from alt to battery with a 150-200 amp fuse block and youll be fine.
 

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I do? Where?

Also, should I be replacing the factory wire (Alt. to Batt) or just adding the 0awg to the stock setup for the big 3?

My orginal question was, do I need to put another ANL inline here?(Alt. to Batt.)
I have brand new Audiopipe 0 AWG copper wire that I am planning on running from the battery pos+ strait to the alternator pos+ output.
"]I do? Where?"

End of the fuse box next to the battery, on the end. Called megafuse. There is a slider cover over it that lifts up and it is connected with screws and nuts. So a larger alt to battery wire should go from the alt output nut to the mega fuse nut. You could keep the factory wire and parallel another wire, putting the connectors one on top of the other under the nuts. I would use "NOALOX" anti-oxidant compound under any connections to prevent future corrosion. I got half ounce tube at Lowe's.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys!
ChartMaker, I found the 175amp fuse inline like you said. Man that makes it easy, and cheaper not having to buy another ANL.
Thanks Again Everyone
 

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Thanks guys!
ChartMaker, I found the 175amp fuse inline like you said. Man that makes it easy, and cheaper not having to buy another ANL.
Thanks Again Everyone
For #8 wire, 130 amps loses about 1.0V per 10 feet. That is 130 watts of heat over that distance. P=IxE.

That is what the factory is banking on. 13 Watts per foot of run. Or a night light heat per 6 inches.

-chart-
 
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