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When the air conditioning system is low on R-134A, does the compressor clutch not kick in? I remember hearing that the clutch will not kick in when the system doesnt have enough pressure (low freon). Am i correct?
Quick Air Conditioning System Question...
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I've been told that if your AC is not cooling, turn it on and listen for the AC clutch to kick in. If you hear it, then you just need an R-134a refill. If not, you've got a deeper issue.
So, I suppose my answer is that it will kick in even with low R-134a.
I just refilled my AC with R-134a, and I remember hearing the clutch kick even when low on refrigerant.
Hope this helps.
So, I suppose my answer is that it will kick in even with low R-134a.
I just refilled my AC with R-134a, and I remember hearing the clutch kick even when low on refrigerant.
Hope this helps.
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For the record;
The AC compressor will NOT kick in unless theres an appropriate amount of pressure. (I just charged my system a few minutes ago - took 3 bottles...) If the pressure is near zero, it will not kick in at all. If the pressure is low, the clutch will try to engage, disengage, try to engage, disengage, repeat, etc.
The AC compressor will NOT kick in unless theres an appropriate amount of pressure. (I just charged my system a few minutes ago - took 3 bottles...) If the pressure is near zero, it will not kick in at all. If the pressure is low, the clutch will try to engage, disengage, try to engage, disengage, repeat, etc.
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Freon probably leaked out.
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R134A conversion. It's not that hard to do yourself, but I would recommend taking it to some one that will warranty all the parts and labor, and if you plan on keeping your car for more than a year or 2 it's gonna be better on your wallet in the long run. If your A/C system has been working and the freon has leaked out because you haven't used it for the season. I would take it to some one that will do a A/C system check, usually for around 29.99 to 49.99, sometimes A/C Quick Check.
they will more than likely add freon to top the system so they can find the leak.
then recover it. They do this so even if it was cooling alittle now its not cooling at ALL. but at least you'll know what you need to replace.
they will more than likely add freon to top the system so they can find the leak.
then recover it. They do this so even if it was cooling alittle now its not cooling at ALL. but at least you'll know what you need to replace.
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R12 is more effective (cooler) than R-134A. R-134A SUCKS. Thanks, enviormentalists. :curse:
Im not completely positive on this one, but i thought you had to have a special license to buy this stuff. :???:
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yes you do need a special licence,and before you work on any a/c you should use a varifier to see what is in the system,if not it is one easy way to kill your self
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I'll probably just have mine done professionally, but does anyone have a picture of where to put the R134A in? I could never find it..
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Ash, its easy, dont let a pro do it. :icon_frown:
On your vulcan, theres 2 valves; A low pressure valve and a high pressure valve. DO NOT FILL FROM THE HIGH PRESSURE VALVE. Instead, you must fill it from the low pressure valve. The HIGH pressure valve is right by your coolant overflow resivoir, its sticking up into the air, you cant miss it. If you take the black pastic cap off, youll see the actual valve. The LOW pressure valve is on the same side as the coolant overflow resivoir, but back towards the firewall. It looks the same as the HIGH pressure valve. Take that cap off of that and youll see the actual valve. (Side note: Dont let dirt get into the valves. Put the cap back on when youre not using the valve.) Go to autozone and buy a can of R-134A, and a pressure gauge. Ask the people there, they can help. If you need any more info, dont hesitate to ask me, VIA PM or otherwise. If you need help when youre at the store or something, call my cell. PM me for my cell phone number.
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Thanks hun, LRB should be back by Sunday (23rd) so I'll check into it then.
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Hello,
I have a 2000 Mercury Sable; it has the Duratec 3.0 V6 engine. I went to MIDAS to get my brakes worked on, and to also check up on my air conditioning system. It turns out, that it needs to be recharged; I presume it needs freon.
They wanted $89.00 just for the freon recharge.
How difficult is it to do the recharge? We have a lot of tools here and my father will help me.
Can someone walk me through this? Where can I purchase the freon?
As much information as you can give would be extremely helpful.
Thank you very much.
I have a 2000 Mercury Sable; it has the Duratec 3.0 V6 engine. I went to MIDAS to get my brakes worked on, and to also check up on my air conditioning system. It turns out, that it needs to be recharged; I presume it needs freon.
They wanted $89.00 just for the freon recharge.
How difficult is it to do the recharge? We have a lot of tools here and my father will help me.
Can someone walk me through this? Where can I purchase the freon?
As much information as you can give would be extremely helpful.
Thank you very much.
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821 Posts
I can verify this as i have that license myself. For those that are interested, they send you a take home course and test that you go through and then send back (with a small fee), a few weeks later they send you a certificate (if you passed) and a wallet card and you can then buy R12.
But i wouldn't recommend messing with the A/C system unless you really take the time to learn and understand it because you can get hurt if you don't know what you are doing.
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If you choose to do it yourself i would recommend getting a the Haynes Techbook called "Automotive Heating and Air Conditioning" and the Haynes manual for your specific year and make of your car. The first book will explain how the A/C system works and how to maintain and charge it and the second book will have vehicle specific pictures and information on the A/C system in your car.
If you have a 2000 it has R134a so you will also need a hose kit and a can (or more depending on how low you are) of R134a coolant.
an example of this would be at:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores...1&storeId=10101
IMO though, if you are not very mechanically inclined or hesitant to mess with the A/C (as it can be dangerous) then it might be worth having a shop do it. If nothing else they can diagnose any leaks or other problems with the system, which it sounds like you might have if you are having to do a recharge after only 4 years or less depending on what time in 2000 your car left the factory.
Hope that helps.
I have a problem in which the A/C will turn on for awhile, but then after about 10 mins, it will just shut off. If i shut the car off and turn it back on after say 10 mins, then when the car turns on, the A/C will work. However, it does not always turn on. So I'm just curious, could low coolant cause the system to turn off suddenly after awhile of use, or is there some sort of short in the system?
That $89 for a recharge sounds like they recover all r134a and oil in the system (by vacuume pump) and weigh it, then they recharge with the exact amount your system calls for. Simply shooting a can into the low pressure side your self will work but will it be right(?). Too much or too little will degrade the system and it will not work as good as it could/should.
Retrofits (from R12 to R134a) beware! If the system is not completely cleaned out you'll suffer from "black death." The minimum conversion means replacing the compressor and the accumulator/drier. You should also replace the oriface tube (which is crimped insde the high pressure line) and the condensor, ans well as flush out the evaporator core and blow out the mufflers. Most places will want over a K-buck for all that. It's about $400 as a do-it-yourselfer job.
Black death - R134a & oil mixed with leftover R12 & oil. Result is an acid that eats away at system innards. (
innards ) The resulting sludge plugs up the condensor and oriface tube. The acid and/or the sludge destroys the compressor.
What a mess... :banana: :banana:
Retrofits (from R12 to R134a) beware! If the system is not completely cleaned out you'll suffer from "black death." The minimum conversion means replacing the compressor and the accumulator/drier. You should also replace the oriface tube (which is crimped insde the high pressure line) and the condensor, ans well as flush out the evaporator core and blow out the mufflers. Most places will want over a K-buck for all that. It's about $400 as a do-it-yourselfer job.
Black death - R134a & oil mixed with leftover R12 & oil. Result is an acid that eats away at system innards. (
innards ) The resulting sludge plugs up the condensor and oriface tube. The acid and/or the sludge destroys the compressor.What a mess... :banana: :banana:
A/C repair prices depend on the problem. Here is something to remember, if you need to recharge, then you have a leak, period.
As for the A/C test, it's all about enviormental BS and NOTHING to do with A/C systems itself. I got mine over 6 years ago, took the test online, and now have my card.
Go Here:
A/C Cert.
As for the A/C test, it's all about enviormental BS and NOTHING to do with A/C systems itself. I got mine over 6 years ago, took the test online, and now have my card.
Go Here:
A/C Cert.
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Little side info
Cars that came with r12 you can put 134a in there with no problem if it is blowing hot air. A man with a 91 bull came into work and just only put three can of 134a in there with no problems. He did not even vacuum the system. Alot of people do it with no problems. A hose with a pressure gauge is really the only you need to make sure you don't over load the system.
more info
To keep the a/c blowing cold use it. It keeps everything oil. That is why our 86 van was still blowing cold air when we sold it in 99.
Cars that came with r12 you can put 134a in there with no problem if it is blowing hot air. A man with a 91 bull came into work and just only put three can of 134a in there with no problems. He did not even vacuum the system. Alot of people do it with no problems. A hose with a pressure gauge is really the only you need to make sure you don't over load the system.
more info
To keep the a/c blowing cold use it. It keeps everything oil. That is why our 86 van was still blowing cold air when we sold it in 99.
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