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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to retrofit and recharge the A/C system.

The 1st step for a sucessful recharge is to vacuum the
whole A/C system completely. My question is:
Do I need to turn the engine on and A/C on when the
vacuum pump is running? or I leave the engine and A/C off
when I vacuum it. My worry is if I turn the A/C on when
the R134-a is sucked out by the pump, is it going to
kill the A/C compressor? If the compressor stays off,
is there going to some trace of old r134-a and moisture
left in the system?

Another question is when I do the recharge, do I hook
the PAG-100 oil first, then the Arctic R134-a?
Is one can (4oz.) of oil enough for the system? I know
I have to have two cans of r134-a for the A/C, and they
also contain some unknown amount of PAG oil in it.
 

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You do not run the compressor, but if you did leave it on, once the pressure drops, the compressor shuts off anyway. You leave the vacuum for a while to check for leaks, but also to let any residual refrigerant, air, or moisture boil out, then you can vacuum again just to be sure.

You do add the oil first. On the refrigerant, take the Arctic back and go get some cans of Dupont Suva. It does not have the oil in it. The oil is useful when topping off an existing system, not when starting fresh. The genuine Dupont Suva is the best stuff anyway, thats what the pros usually use.
 

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hi

if you are retrofit from Freon type you should replace the receiver dryer as
the oil in it is not compatible with the new 134a gas.

this part comes empty of oil and you put the measured amount of oil in it first,
then you attach it to the system and then pull the vacuum.

removing all the moisture is important to prevent acid from forming from the
refrigerant and that will eat holes in all your coils.

engine off for pulling vacuum on the a/c system.

if you did have the a/c on the low pressure switch will stop the compressor from running.

wear eye protection as well as gloves during a/c service work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
can I hotwire the A/C compressor to let it run all the time? or hotwire the compressor briefly towards the end of vacuuming process to expell any remaining refrigerent/moisture trapped in the chamber of the compressor?
You do not run the compressor, but if you did leave it on, once the pressure drops, the compressor shuts off anyway. You leave the vacuum for a while to check for leaks, but also to let any residual refrigerant, air, or moisture boil out, then you can vacuum again just to be sure.

You do add the oil first. On the refrigerant, take the Arctic back and go get some cans of Dupont Suva. It does not have the oil in it. The oil is useful when topping off an existing system, not when starting fresh. The genuine Dupont Suva is the best stuff anyway, thats what the pros usually use.
 

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Do not run the compressor at all while vacuuming the system.
 

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Do not run the compressor at all while vacuuming the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you know which oil to use? In wal-mart, three types of PAG oil
are available: PAG 46, 100, 150. and what's the difference?

Is one can (4oz.) enough for a fresh system?

You do not run the compressor, but if you did leave it on, once the pressure drops, the compressor shuts off anyway. You leave the vacuum for a while to check for leaks, but also to let any residual refrigerant, air, or moisture boil out, then you can vacuum again just to be sure.

You do add the oil first. On the refrigerant, take the Arctic back and go get some cans of Dupont Suva. It does not have the oil in it. The oil is useful when topping off an existing system, not when starting fresh. The genuine Dupont Suva is the best stuff anyway, thats what the pros usually use.
 

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Don't run the compressor. Without refrigerant in the system to carry the oil, there is no lubrication. If you run without oil, you will ruin the compressor. If you hook your vacuum pump to your manifold gauge set and open the high and low side valves, you will not have any problems with any residual moisture or refrigerant.
 

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Please do not do this:

ok, I'll briefly run the compressor at the end of vacuum process
to evacuate the residual moisture.

Where will the residual moisture go if you run the compressor?

The answer is nowhere. You pull a high vacuum with a high vacuum pump,
not a compressor.

please take your time and you will be rewarded with a job well done,
otherwise you will be in for expensive fixes and additional fustrations.

good luck with your repair.

regards
 

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PAG oil may have a different viscosity (AFAIK higher number means higher viscosity). The oil viscosity you use has to match specification of your compressor. Usually, Ford compressors require PAG 46, but you have to know for sure.
Another option is to use ESTER oil, what fits all compressors (I used it year ago when I retrofitted my A/C).
For oil capacity, check Ford shop manual. AFAIK, for Taurus 95 it was 7 oz, but don't rely on my words - check official document.
 

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Since your changing over from r-12 to r-134a, replace the dryer, and I would suggest replacing the outside condensor with the newer type made for r-134a. If you have the old style r-12 condensor that has the tubes and fins, it will not cool as well with r-134a. Don't forget to replace the in-line pressure switch with one made for r-134a's higher operating pressure.
 

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......If the compressor stays off,
is there going to some trace of old r134-a and moisture
left in the system? .....
I don't think AC has isolated, sealed pockets that can keep old refrigerant and moisture, if that's your concern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi,

I got a new problem today when I was trying to recharge the A/C.

The manifold gauge bought from Harbor Freight is good for evacuating
process with vacuum pump. But I hooked the yellow hose to the
R134-a can, I found the hose does not have a needle-and-knob,
which I used to use ti pierce into the can and release it when I
turn the knob.

I know the refrigerant in the can is pressurized. Can I use a awl
to make a hole on the top of the can, and hook it to the yellow hose
quickly? I worried the R134-a in the can will burst out once I do it.
Can I still use this manifold for refilling?

Thanks a lot!


Since your changing over from r-12 to r-134a, replace the dryer, and I would suggest replacing the outside condensor with the newer type made for r-134a. If you have the old style r-12 condensor that has the tubes and fins, it will not cool as well with r-134a. Don't forget to replace the in-line pressure switch with one made for r-134a's higher operating pressure.
 

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I bet your method will not work. I don't think 1) you can do it quick enough before losing most of the gas and 2) you will be able to overcome the gas pressure and connect the yellow hose.

Can you thread the yellow hose to the puncturing device that comes with it? There's gotta be a way. Does anyone know?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No, this manifold from HF does not have the puncturing device with it.

I searched the web, the yellow hose has to be hooked to the so-called
"can tap" for the refilling.

Damn it, the can tap costs another $11 from Autozone.

why doesn't the manifold include the can tap in it? just a small part.

I bet your method will not work. I don't think 1) you can do it quick enough before losing most of the gas and 2) you will be able to overcome the gas pressure and connect the yellow hose.

Can you thread the yellow hose to the puncturing device that comes with it? There's gotta be a way. Does anyone know?
 

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No, this manifold from HF does not have the puncturing device with it.

I searched the web, the yellow hose has to be hooked to the so-called
"can tap" for the refilling.

Damn it, the can tap costs another $11 from Autozone.

why doesn't the manifold include the can tap in it? just a small part.
"Cause it's Harbor Freight. Great store, but there's a reason their prices are so low.
 

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I have never seen a gauge set w/ a can tapper. Ga. sets are designed to be used w/ the large refrig. gas canisters and not the small cans that consumers use. What U paid is what I also paid for a can tapper from my local indep. parts dealer. Advance AP had no stock when I went there 'cuz their price ($7) was cheaper and they usually sell all they get in fast for that reason. If U are doing the conversion properly U should also flush the sys. w/ flushing fluid and have the sys. charged w/ dry N. and then re-vac'ed out...but that's just me I guess, doing things the right way.
 
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