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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
my question is i have 2 vacuum lines green and a red lines,, the green line goes to the egr valve and the red line to the Fuel Pressure Regulator,, now at a cold start let the car idle i pulled off egr green vacuum line no change in the idle,, then i warmed up the car then pulled the green line still no change in the idle is this normal i read some place when pulling off the line to to the egr valve the cars idle is suppose to make the car idle lower,,,,,it has a miss in the motor when cold and is using more gas,,and when i pulled off the fuel pressure red vacuum line there was vacuum from the line and did not see any gas around it and there is no check engine light on
 

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^ That's because there is no egr flow at idle or wide open throttle (wot). There should not be any gas in and around the fpr vacuum line. If there is, the fpr diaphragm is ruptured.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
^ That's because there is no egr flow at idle or wide open throttle (wot). There should not be any gas in and around the fpr vacuum line.
[/QUOTE just curious
how does a person test the egr valve ,, why is there vacuum at the fuel pressure regulator but no vaccuum at the egr valve
 

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Perform the simple "egr suck test". With engine idling, remove the egr valve green vacuum line and replace with ~12" of rubber vac. hose. Suck on the open end of the sampling hose opening the valve pintle/diaphragm allowing for egr flow into the upper intake manifold (uim). Engine should stumble or die due to the fact that there should be no egr flow at idle or w.o.t. If eng. doesn't bog down, 1st place I'd check is the c-channel behind the throttle body gasket. If needed, remove the tb and its gasket. Behind the gasket you'll see the c-channel. Clean out all the oily carbon and the 3 notches at the bottom. Also, in the top left corner of the c-channel is the passageway/tunnel to the egr valve. With a small slotted screwdriver and/or baling wire, clean/ream it out too. I use tb spray cleaner, screwdriver, baling wire and rags. If you're getting p0401/402 codes, may swap out the dpfe sensor (egr backpressure sensor). Might also show up as p1401/1402. Ford/Motorcraft egr valves, other than getting a little dirty/carboned, are pretty robust. I've never needed to replace one. Vacuum is on the green egr valve line when egr flow is called for/commanded. Vacuum is on the red fpr line to regulate fuel pressure. If you pull the red line off while idling/running, pressure will increase ~5+ psi.
 

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^ mustang dude, I consider cleaning the c-channel normal maintenance on any gen3 tec. With the throttle body removed, equally important is the pcv valve and its u-shaped hose below the throttle body. Especially the hose (Motorcraft #KCV110). The pcv valve itself is Motorcraft #EV152D. Iirc, both available at Rockauto.com.
 

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Been driving mostly Fords for 50 years and never had an EGR valve fail. Have had a DPFE fail once on the wifes old 04 Tec (got totaled 6 months later) and a PFE fail once on the 95 Vulcan. Did have an EGR code last year on my 86 Tbird 5.0 (EEC IV) that turned out to be a sticky EVR solenoid. Pulled it and blasted it out with TB cleaner and reinstalled it. No codes since.

Of course, I saved the nearly new DPFE and a crap load of other parts from the 04 before it went to the JY.
 
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