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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if anyone has removed and repaired (R/R) a GenIV (2001) Ford Taurus Steering Wheel?

Right now, the top area is really cracking away (probably due to the high temps in Florida). Also, the Cruise Control OFF button has never really worked all that well.

I was thinking of finding one in a U-Pull-It Yard and replacing it.

I know that there is a lot of electronics/safety equipment (e.g. Airbags) that go into these steering wheels now...but still I was hoping for some sort of R/R procedure.

If anyone knows how to do it that would be great. Already checked the 'Topic Finder' and 'Search' with no good results.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Thanks rudedog for those pics! One question, In the pic (last one, really step 2 on the CD) there is a Sentence that is cute off.

'Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) and wait at least..."

What is the end of that statement?

I'm also assuming here, that ground cable is the black negative cable under the hood, right?

Thanks! Everything else looks pretty self explainatory.

Also, when the ground cable is removed, is there NO CHANCE for the airbag to deploy? I just want to make sure that doing this, I won't wind up with a face full of ... well, you catch my drift. :)

Thanks again!!!

Here's hoping I can find one cheap and I'll get this written up for a wiki/topic finder solution!
:x:
 

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Yeah, it was cut off. It states to wait for at least one minute.
Yes, Negative(grnd) is black under the hood.
I don't think it'll deploy, I guess it could happen, but I've never had one do that. Jose removed one at Pick Your Part a few weeks ago, granted the battery had long been disconnected, it didn't deploy. I think you'll be ok, if you wait a few minutes. After you disconnect the battery, tap the brake pedal a few times and cycle the key on/off a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, it was cut off. It states to wait for at least one minute.
Yes, Negative(grnd) is black under the hood.
I don't think it'll deploy, I guess it could happen, but I've never had one do that. Jose removed one at Pick Your Part a few weeks ago, granted the battery had long been disconnected, it didn't deploy. I think you'll be ok, if you wait a few minutes. After you disconnect the battery, tap the brake pedal a few times and cycle the key on/off a few times.
[/b]

Okay, thanks. Just curious... well because I just am :huh:

why 'tap the brake pedal a few times and cycle the key on/off a few times'? :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Something about discharging any capacitors in the system, if there are any.
[/b]

Well when you put it that way... it makes sense. I guess the brake pedal would trigger the brake lights and the on/off key cycling would trigger any other electronics that may be holding any kind of charge.

See, I guess I learned something today! Thanks, now I hope that I find one for cheap. Ebay is selling one for $100!!! Screw that.
 

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Instead of just tapping the brake, just turn on your lights after disconnecting the negative cable. That will drain any capacitors.

Removing the wheel is easy if you have a steering wheel puller. After you get the 4 screws out at the sides of the steering wheel, lift the center part (that has the airbag inside it)and look for a wire going from to inside the hub to a tab. You can pull that tab out and the air bag is safe.

Then remove the large center nut and use the steering wheel puller to remove the wheel. Just make sure to center your wheels before you remove the old steering wheel.

As for the cruise control, does it work at all? If it turns on but doesn't work, and refuses to shut off with the off button, it's likely the clockspring. Easy enough to replace once you have the wheel off.

Wreckers would have both fairly cheap, around $50 for both if that. I would suggest you replace the clockspring at the same time while you have the wheel off.
 

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I remember daveromanjr telling me that cleaning the contacts of the cruise control buttons can help solve the same problem you are having. Just a small flat head screw driver pops them out of the wheel (the whole black plastic assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I remember daveromanjr telling me that cleaning the contacts of the cruise control buttons can help solve the same problem you are having. Just a small flat head screw driver pops them out of the wheel (the whole black plastic assembly.
[/b]

Thanks I'll try this first. This was one reason for R&R'ing the Steering Wheel.

The other reason was that the top of the steering wheel (handle grip) is starting to come apart... getting really choppy feeling.

It's just due to the intense heat and that knuckle grip that I drive with! :noes:
 

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Removing the wheel is easy if you have a steering wheel puller. After you get the 4 screws out at the sides of the steering wheel, lift the center part (that has the airbag inside it) Then remove the large center nut and use the steering wheel puller to remove the wheel.[/b]
ehhh, survey says XXX

Not to burst your bubble, his is different.
It has a single little screw that holds the whole thing to the column. You open the little access port on the side of the wheel and it's right in there, you turn it "out" like a bazzillion turns and finally it comes out of some time warp or something and the wheel releases. :lol2: :lol2:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I remember daveromanjr telling me that cleaning the contacts of the cruise control buttons can help solve the same problem you are having. Just a small flat head screw driver pops them out of the wheel (the whole black plastic assembly.
[/b]

A HUGE thank you goes out to Bull Geek on this one! All I had to do was Clean the INSIDE connectors.

If you are having issues with EITHER the Cruise Control On/Off or the +/-/Resume CC buttons try this simple procedure first.

1) Use a small flat head screw driver and insert between the outer black plastic and the soft pleather of the steering wheel. Pry outwards and remove the entire Black assembly from steering wheel.

2) Disconnect the 3/4 pin connector from the back of the assembly. Note: There are 3 wires going into the steering wheel.

3) Use a Torx T-9 or T-7 to remove the 3 Torx screws in the back. It should not take many turns to get these out.

4) Disassemble and using Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol clean all Gold connectors with a Q-Tip.

5) Assemble in the reverse order.

If anyone has ever taken apart a video game controller (NES, SNES, N64, PSone, PS2, XBox, etc) the same principles adhear to this. There are essentially 3 pieces. The Black plastic, a rubber middle piece (used to pop the plastic back out), and a simple circuit board.

The connectors inside the indents of the rubber will collect dust/grime. This will transfer to the circuit board. When these connections are not good, intermittant or complete failure to work will result.

Remember to use Rubbing alcohol because it will not harm the electronics of the board. DO NOT USE WATER!

Okay, thanks again TCCA! $2 worth of tools and $2 worth of Rubbing alcohol. Now my Cruise Control works just like it did out of the factory!

:mj_banana:
 

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<div class='quotemain'>
I remember daveromanjr telling me that cleaning the contacts of the cruise control buttons can help solve the same problem you are having. Just a small flat head screw driver pops them out of the wheel (the whole black plastic assembly.
[/b]

A HUGE thank you goes out to Bull Geek on this one! All I had to do was Clean the INSIDE connectors.

If you are having issues with EITHER the Cruise Control On/Off or the +/-/Resume CC buttons try this simple procedure first.

1) Use a small flat head screw driver and insert between the outer black plastic and the soft pleather of the steering wheel. Pry outwards and remove the entire Black assembly from steering wheel.

2) Disconnect the 3/4 pin connector from the back of the assembly. Note: There are 3 wires going into the steering wheel.

3) Use a Torx T-9 or T-7 to remove the 3 Torx screws in the back. It should not take many turns to get these out.

4) Disassemble and using Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol clean all Gold connectors with a Q-Tip.

5) Assemble in the reverse order.

If anyone has ever taken apart a video game controller (NES, SNES, N64, PSone, PS2, XBox, etc) the same principles adhear to this. There are essentially 3 pieces. The Black plastic, a rubber middle piece (used to pop the plastic back out), and a simple circuit board.

The connectors inside the indents of the rubber will collect dust/grime. This will transfer to the circuit board. When these connections are not good, intermittant or complete failure to work will result.

Remember to use Rubbing alcohol because it will not harm the electronics of the board. DO NOT USE WATER!

Okay, thanks again TCCA! $2 worth of tools and $2 worth of Rubbing alcohol. Now my Cruise Control works just like it did out of the factory!

:mj_banana:
[/b][/quote]
:woot: Great to hear it worked for you, too! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Moderators, is there any way to get this posted to the Wiki and maybe add it to the Topic Finder and/or the How To Solutions?

If need be, I'll re-write the procedure.
 

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Moderators, is there any way to get this posted to the Wiki and maybe add it to the Topic Finder and/or the How To Solutions?

If need be, I'll re-write the procedure.
[/b]
Make a new topic and I'll move it to the common problem section :)
 
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