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So the other day I went to replace my T-stat, I put the new one in , tighten the bolts and then proceed to fill the radiator with coolant. Almost immediately the lower bolt on the T-stat housing starts to leak...long story short, the T-stat housing cracked in 2 pieces. so I went and got another one but did not really want to use the same 16 yr old bolts . so I search high and low for a sutable replacement. The ones I find are the proper M6-30mm length and size with the proper head however, they are NOT threaded all the way up...only about half way. It looks as if this will not effect anything as the water outlet isn't threaded anyways (only the manifold). Has anybody used similar bolts with the water outler? Should I use them or the originals. Thanks for the input B)
 

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Changed the thermostat housing on my F250 diesel truck and the housing is tin. The torque value is 19 inch pounds, which is basically 1/4 turn with a wrench/socket. Otherwist the housing will bend. Old bolts should be fine but once the housing bends it's hard to get it to not leak. You can try blue RTV and make sure all surfaces are clean.
 

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here is a tip for the 1996 - 2000+ the t stat are mounted insuch a way that gravity will cause the t stat to fall inbetween the block and the housing. will crack the houseing in two piecese so a little trick i use is super glue two little daps. then holding the t-stat on it long enough for the super glue to stick then installing it. with dry gasket prevent it from cracking. also new bolts i would put them in if i was you but get the correct length and thread count and sizes etc...
 

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Reuse the original bolts. Age doesn't matter.

Thread a rubber band through the "basket handle" on the thermostat, then epull the loops through the neck on the thermostat. Pass a pencil through the loops to hold the thermostat in the housing.

Make sure the sealing surfaces in the engine and thermostat housing are clean. I use Gasgacinch to seal the gasket to the parts. Apply Gasgacinch to the housing and one side of the gasket. Let it dry. Carefully place the gasket on the housing. Then apply Gasgacinch to the other side of the gasket and the sealing surface on the engine, Let it dry, then line it up on the engine and bolt in place. I install most gaskets of this type this way and never have had any leakage. Stay away from RTV "instant gaskets". Usually this stuff just squishes out and causes more problems than it solves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
here is a tip for the 1996 - 2000+ the t stat are mounted insuch a way that gravity will cause the t stat to fall inbetween the block and the housing. will crack the houseing in two piecese so a little trick i use is super glue two little daps. then holding the t-stat on it long enough for the super glue to stick then installing it. with dry gasket prevent it from cracking. also new bolts i would put them in if i was you but get the correct length and thread count and sizes etc...

That is exactly what I did LOL used superglue to hold T-stat in place and the old bolts...cleaned tapped and reused...no rust on them....snugged them and then a qtr turn to tighten them up. I used a new housing seeing how I cracked mine ...probably due to the above mentioned :pat: New housing is quite a bit beefier. I did use high temp RTV on the gasket.. as the chilton told me too, I haven't filled it up yet due to time so i am going to cross my fingers that it doesn't leak
 

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sfhess, never heard of gasgacinch before you mentioned it but it shall now become a part of my toolbox.
It's old-schoolish but it works.
 
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