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Exalted Grand Poobah
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4,753 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Pardon me if this posted somewhere else...anyhow, I hurt my back yet again and won't be swapping in my parts-yard NOS dash for a while. Howsomever, it irritated me to have my Frankenstein instrument cluster ready to go and not being used. So, I made use of my extra hour today to swap in the new cluster.



Only problem I have is, everything works but the fuel gauge. Is there a pinout change I have to make for that, from the original Vulcan cluster connector to the SHO fuel gauge in the cluster?

Suggestions (useable ones lol)?
 

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Exalted Grand Poobah
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4,753 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Update/Correction - the speedo's out of a SHO. The cluster itself came out of a Sable, I believe. BullGeek might remember for sure.

Anyhow, here's a possible dumb question: While looking at the back of the cluster I removed from my car, I noticed a small plug-in circuit board below the fuel gauge. Am I supposed to move that to the new cluster?
 

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Super Moderator
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If my old guy memory is right, that circuit board is the "anti slosh" module that slows down fuel gauge response so it isnt jumping around when cornering, going up hills, etc. And, yes, it is needed for the gauge to function.
 

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Exalted Grand Poobah
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Discussion Starter #4
One old guy to another - thanks for the direction. I had to swap the Sable circuit board for the one in my old cluster, and now I have a pegged Full gauge. I'll watch what happens as I burn this tank off over the next week or two.

One more question - isn't the ammeter idiot light (the battery icon) supposed to light when the car's ignition is turned on, or when I start the car? I could swear the light acted that way with the old cluster. Rather a low-priority problem, but I'm curious about it nonetheless. I have replaced the cluster bulb in that position with a known working one from my old cluster (whose bulbs I had all just replaced in March 2012).

Thanx again for the assistance!
 

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Premium Member
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17,415 Posts
Oh the I/O panel from the Sable had to be swapped for yours? Really interesting...

Ok good - and yes don't forget the anti-slosh module too, that'll make things screwy.

The battery light should come on at self check/Key On Engine Off.
 

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Exalted Grand Poobah
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Discussion Starter #6
"I/O panel?" What's that? :confused:
 

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Premium Member
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The circuit board of plastic embeded with the copper contacts for the connections to send signals
 

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Exalted Grand Poobah
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4,753 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Oh, no, I kept that the way it was. I just swapped the slosh module gizmo. It's still pegged at over Full, but I've only driven about 20 miles so too early to tell yet if there's a loose wire or bad spot on the I/O panel yet. The temp gauge sure reads lower than normal, too.
 

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Premium Member
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the design of the coolant gauges is different. My 87 read different when I installed the tach cluster.

Hopefully it works - the warranty has long since expired on that cluster, lol.

The cluster is a 90 or 91 Sable with a SHO speedometer.

No idea about anti-slosh. Maybe the cluster was out of a Sable GS or something.
 

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Exalted Grand Poobah
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Discussion Starter #10
I swear the fuel gauge dropped a bit today, with is heartening as my old one would read well over Full as well. (Took it for a 30-mile drive after work tonight.) I figured the temp gauge might register differently, which I don't mind since the old one seemed to read high.

Now, I just still have to figure out why the ammeter idiot light doesn't work. Gonna swap the bulb out again this weekend when I have daylight, maybe put a voltmeter to the circuit.
 
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