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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
before i pull motor this weekend do i have to pull it with the transmission or can i just pull motor by unbolting from bell housing and only pull the motor
 

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before i pull motor this weekend do i have to pull it with the transmission or can i just pull motor by unbolting from bell housing and only pull the motor
The motor and transmission won't come out the top. The proper method is to drop the subframe and separate the engine from the transmission then. I've lifted the engine out the top before, but I wouldn't do it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The motor and transmission won't come out the top. The proper method is to drop the subframe and separate the engine from the transmission then. I've lifted the engine out the top before, but I wouldn't do it again.
ok droping it from the bottom i do not have any way to get it up high enough to slide the motor out :( but i really do not mind pulling from the top that is how i normally pull all my motors so you can pull just the motor from the top
 

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I pulled a Vulcan out of the top on a '94. You might have to remove the P/S pump, alternator, and AC compressor to get clearance. Also you'll have to unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel prior to pulling the engine. That's how I did it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I pulled a Vulcan out of the top on a '94. You might have to remove the P/S pump, alternator, and AC compressor to get clearance. Also you'll have to unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel prior to pulling the engine. That's how I did it anyway.

yah i pulled a i think a 92 Taurus motor out from the top and it came out pretty good
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
'92 and '94 are the same gen. '96 and up; drop the subframe. Trust me.
ok if i dropped it from the subframe some questions.

1. how do i get the car up high enough
1a how high should i get it
2. what do i need to unhook
3. what do i hook from
4. what do i need to remove for parts

i have never dropped a vehicle from the bottom before
 

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I've heard of people using an engine hoist to lift the car and as to what needs to be unhooked, basically anything that connects the subframe, engine, and trans to the rest of the car.
 

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ok if i dropped it from the subframe some questions.

1. how do i get the car up high enough see below
1a how high should i get it
2. what do i need to unhook exhaust, struts, wiring, steering column shaft
3. what do i hook from see below
4. what do i need to remove for parts

i have never dropped a vehicle from the bottom before
My opinion and experience: Much easier to pull out the bottom.

Here is what I did in my garage:
1. Rear wheels up on ramps
2. Jacked up front end with floor jack.
3. At the end of the jack stroke, I placed heavy duty jackstands under the subframe.
4. I then continued to jack up using 4x4 blocks between the jack and the subframe.
5. I then placed a double 4x4 across the body just aft of the subframe mounts. The 4x4's were supported by the heavy duty jackstands.
6. Disconnected all hoses, wiring, upper strut mounts, steering shaft, and cables.
7. Using the engine hoist with chains, supported the engine/trans
8. Removed subframe mounting bolts
9. Lower subframe with engine/trans onto a 4 caster dolly
10. Removed assembly from under car

This now allows you to remove the engine/trans from the subframe, replace subframe bushings, and clean and inspect everything. You may also want to paint the subframe to prevent rusting.

Removing the engine/trans this way is about a 4-5 hour job. Reinstallation is just opposite. The actual bolting up didn't take long, it wall all the reconnection of wiring, cables, etc that was time consuming.

I also used this same procedure to replace the engine in my 2002 Olds Silhouette van last summer.
 

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My opinion and experience: Much easier to pull out the bottom.

Here is what I did in my garage:
1. Rear wheels up on ramps
2. Jacked up front end with floor jack.
3. At the end of the jack stroke, I placed heavy duty jackstands under the subframe.
4. I then continued to jack up using 4x4 blocks between the jack and the subframe.
5. I then placed a double 4x4 across the body just aft of the subframe mounts. The 4x4's were supported by the heavy duty jackstands.
6. Disconnected all hoses, wiring, upper strut mounts, steering shaft, and cables.
7. Using the engine hoist with chains, supported the engine/trans
8. Removed subframe mounting bolts
9. Lower subframe with engine/trans onto a 4 caster dolly
10. Removed assembly from under car

This now allows you to remove the engine/trans from the subframe, replace subframe bushings, and clean and inspect everything. You may also want to paint the subframe to prevent rusting.

Removing the engine/trans this way is about a 4-5 hour job. Reinstallation is just opposite. The actual bolting up didn't take long, it wall all the reconnection of wiring, cables, etc that was time consuming.

I also used this same procedure to replace the engine in my 2002 Olds Silhouette van last summer.
+1

When I took my engine out from the top on my '97, I broke a lot of things (including AC) and it took me 8 hours, WHILE rushing. Took me longer getting everything back together, too. It's hard to attach the motor to the tranny inside that tight engine bay. I'd recommend getting a hoist to lift the car, but follow the same procedure outlined by rdh2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
+1

When I took my engine out from the top on my '97, I broke a lot of things (including AC) and it took me 8 hours, WHILE rushing. Took me longer getting everything back together, too. It's hard to attach the motor to the tranny inside that tight engine bay. I'd recommend getting a hoist to lift the car, but follow the same procedure outlined by rdh2.
what do i hook on to on the car bumper ?????
and what is the time factor between the two (top pull / bottom pull)
 

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what do i hook on to on the car bumper ????? Not sure what you are asking
and what is the time factor between the two (top pull / bottom pull) top=lots of frustration and unknown hours; bottom=4-6 hours out and probably 8-12 back in.
See answers in red
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My opinion and experience: Much easier to pull out the bottom.

Here is what I did in my garage:
1. Rear wheels up on ramps
2. Jacked up front end with floor jack.
3. At the end of the jack stroke, I placed heavy duty jackstands under the subframe.
4. I then continued to jack up using 4x4 blocks between the jack and the subframe.
5. I then placed a double 4x4 across the body just aft of the subframe mounts. The 4x4's were supported by the heavy duty jackstands.
6. Disconnected all hoses, wiring, upper strut mounts, steering shaft, and cables.
7. Using the engine hoist with chains, supported the engine/trans
8. Removed subframe mounting bolts
9. Lower subframe with engine/trans onto a 4 caster dolly
10. Removed assembly from under car

This now allows you to remove the engine/trans from the subframe, replace subframe bushings, and clean and inspect everything. You may also want to paint the subframe to prevent rusting.

Removing the engine/trans this way is about a 4-5 hour job. Reinstallation is just opposite. The actual bolting up didn't take long, it wall all the reconnection of wiring, cables, etc that was time consuming.

I also used this same procedure to replace the engine in my 2002 Olds Silhouette van last summer.
See answers in red
ok i think i am droping the motor
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
do i have to disconnect the front break lines and what is the trick about unhooking the shaft from the rack and pinion
 

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You don't have to disconnect the brake lines; just unbolt the caliper from the spindle and tie it off with some wire. Someone else will have to address the shaft.
 

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do i have to disconnect the front break lines and what is the trick about unhooking the shaft from the rack and pinion
The trick is don't do any of it. Tie up the steering rack with rope so it cannot drop, remove the bolts that hold it to the subframe. Note: if they separate and are not put together right you can ruin the clockspring for the airbag. As for as the brakes, remove the ball joint bolts at the bottom and separate them from the subframe. The strut assembly will pull out far enough from the car to release the half shafts from the transaxle. Immediately protect the ends of the shafts and cover the holes in the transaxle to keep dirt out. You may need a prybar to push down on the A-arm if you don't drop the subframe a little before attempting separation (I would recommend dropping it). Put it through the large hole near the subrame and push down. One trick I learned is to turn the steering wheel to extend the steering link to the side you are working on. Makes it much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ok...... to late i pulled it with the rack and marked locations so it will go back togather
 
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