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Discussion Starter #1
The other day, me and a friend replaced the front brake pads on my 07' Taurus. Once we had them installed, we test drove it and everything was great for a little while. A day or two later, i start her up and pull into reverse and once i step on the brakes, it sounds as if there are two pieces of metal grinding on each other and the vibrations from that can be felt inside the cabin. Once i pulled into drive, i hit the brake again and i heard a little clank and the brakes returned to normal. This only happens whenever i pull into reverse so im really worried about this. Please note my rotors are possibly warped/need to be resurfaced or just replaced now after all of this. On another note, a week after all of this has happened, i cant go over a little bump without the front end sounding like its going to fall apart. That leads me to believe that my ball joints are out but i am not sure... :(
 

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Is the "clank" you hear sound as if it's coming from the front or rear? It may just be fluke that the noise started after your friend did the brake job. That said, you still should be going to look at the work already done and make sure everything is normal.

As for the clunk in the front over little bumps, could be a number of things. Sway bar link, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, ball joints, strut mounts, etc. That noise will have to be looked at. Sway bar links and bushings are usually the culprit, but it needs to be looked at regardless to correctly diagnose it.
 

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Check the dust boots on suspension parts including sway bar struts. The lower strut boots tend to fail first. When they do, dirt gets in and causes wear which leads to clunking when one wheel hits a small bump or uneven spot in the pavement.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Seized slide pins or sticky caliper? Rear wheel cylinder seizing?
I believe the slide pins could be bad because there was uneven break wear when i removed them old brake pads. i didn't check anything from the rear wheels but they screech occasionally and you can hear them grind but thats a different issue
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is the "clank" you hear sound as if it's coming from the front or rear? It may just be fluke that the noise started after your friend did the brake job. That said, you still should be going to look at the work already done and make sure everything is normal.

As for the clunk in the front over little bumps, could be a number of things. Sway bar link, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, ball joints, strut mounts, etc. That noise will have to be looked at. Sway bar links and bushings are usually the culprit, but it needs to be looked at regardless to correctly diagnose it.
It is coming from the front end. Today i will be looking at everything to make sure nothing is loose or not where it is supposed to be. For the suspension, i will be taking it to a shop because i do not want to mess with anything because i wont be able to fix it myself.
 

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When you replaced the front pads did you remove the slide pins to inspect/clean/regrease? Should be done ea. pad replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When you replaced the front pads did you remove the slide pins to inspect/clean/regrease? Should be done ea. pad replacement.
Im gonna be honest, i did not check them and didnt even know about them until i saw a youtube video the other day on uneven break wear. I will be inspecting them today and performing all of that. The only problem i also had was trying to take the caliper off. The two bolts you're supposed to remove were striped and i was unable to remove them and i was stuck. the only other thing i could do is remove the bolt holding the entire caliper in place and going from there. i remember one of the guide pins had a hard time going back into the caliper after everything was put back. :unsure:
 

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Fwiw, you can get new cap bolts, slide pins and dust boots fairly cheap at a parts store, Rockauto online or a jy. I assume you removed the larger 15mm caliper mount bracket bolts to remove the caliper. You can also purchase/replace the mount bracket if a pin is badly seized and you can't "coax" it out, lol.
 

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It sounds like a frozen guide pin which will effect brake wear too. Hopefully a pad wasn't put in upside down.
Sway bar links can be changed with simple hand tools in the driveway, lower control arms too.
Other suspension parts such as ball joints, tie rod ends and struts are more difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Fwiw, you can get new cap bolts, slide pins and dust boots fairly cheap at a parts store, Rockauto online or a jy. I assume you removed the larger 15mm caliper mount bracket bolts to remove the caliper. You can also purchase/replace the mount bracket if a pin is badly seized and you can't "coax" it out, lol.
I did exactly that, pins will be replaced as well as rotors soon.

It sounds like a frozen guide pin which will effect brake wear too. Hopefully a pad wasn't put in upside down.
Sway bar links can be changed with simple hand tools in the driveway, lower control arms too.
Other suspension parts such as ball joints, tie rod ends and struts are more difficult.
Pads were correctly installed, i just dont know why it grinds only in reverse :( im having a ford mechanic take a look at everything next week so we'll see what happens from there. I just need to know what exactly it is so i could try fixing it myself.
 

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Picture of the rotors and little pin that was showing in the second pin was out of its spot. I readjusted the pads so the pin doesnt show anymore but continues to make the same noise.
That little "pin" is the anti rattle spring and always need to be checked for location. The spring needs to be centered before putting the caliper on them.

And general: with new pads, need to take the yoke off and the rotors and:
Sand the axle flange free of rust.
Sand both sides of the rotor that face the axle flange and the wheel.
Check the guide pins, best pull them out and inspect for any rust on the pin. Regrease and be sure they slide free. New pins are not all that expensive. The part of the yoke that contacts the pads needs wire brushed free of rust. Some think the pins need high temp grease but, if they ever got hot enough to matter, the dust boot would be toast.

Yoke bolts, and caliper bolts need thread locker.

It helps to put 2 lug nuts on backwards to hold the rotor firm on the axle flange while installing the caliper on the rotor. And if you forget to remove them, you will notice. :lol2:

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well i found the issue guys! :) The bottom caliper mounting bolt was missing and therefore would move on its own and create all kinds of sounds and all. I went to ford directly for the bolt since autozone and o'reilly's didn't have the bolt in their system and turns out ford gave me a guiding pin i didn't need :( So after all that, i decided to go find the bolt at a junkyard and now everything is better. Thanks everyone for the help and support!
 

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Sounds like your friend shouldn't be touching your car again if he didn't put a critical bolt back in what keeps you alive in the car.... ;)
 

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Well i found the issue guys! :) The bottom caliper mounting bolt was missing and therefore would move on its own and create all kinds of sounds and all. I went to ford directly for the bolt since autozone and o'reilly's didn't have the bolt in their system and turns out ford gave me a guiding pin i didn't need :( So after all that, i decided to go find the bolt at a junkyard and now everything is better. Thanks everyone for the help and support!
Congrats for your finding.

Bolt here, one there, usually no need for maybe more than 2 lugs and such. :lol2:

Kidding of course, but for guide pins/bolts, they are cheap at RA with bolt and giude pin set. Guide pins should be pulled, wiped down and regreased and checked for free movement. Bolts are special length and strength. Shame they cannot agree on the hex size. I have had 12mm, 13mm/(1/2"), and 14mm on the same car.

-chart-
 

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Sounds like your friend shouldn't be touching your car again if he didn't put a critical bolt back in what keeps you alive in the car.... ;)
You have never done a big job an ended up with a extra bolt or such?
Nahh, not me..... ;)
 

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You have never done a big job an ended up with a extra bolt or such?
Nahh, not me..... ;)
Brakes are simple. You have 2 bolts in the yoke = 15mm and 2 in the caliper, most any size on mine. All get thread locker. Takes unusual talent to miss one of them.

-chart-
 

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You have never done a big job an ended up with a extra bolt or such?
Nahh, not me..... ;)
Not on a car. Especially something as simple to do, and as crucial to safety, both for you and the other people on the road, as the brakes on a car. As chart said, two 13mm bolts on the caliper(I only take those off to clean/grease the slide pins), and two 15mm bolts on the knuckle for the mounting bracket. Not really all that much to miss if you are competent enough to be working on a car.


Hell, when I did the rear manifold on my wagon there were a TON of parts and nuts/bolts that came off. Every single one of them went back where they belonged. :rolleyes2:
 
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