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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone and thank you to those who read this

First off i did Big 3 with 4 gauge wiring (engine to chassis, batt - to chassis, fuse to batt +) i think i may have messed up something by adding a wire from the alt + to fuse.

I bought new clamps to put my wires in and connected positive cable, then neg cable. When i connected neg cable i seen a big spark on the post and now theres a indention on the neg battery post.

Started her up (97 sable vulcan) and batt light stays on, also check engine light is on.

Started last night and was going to leave then noticed lights were dimming, and tach was nonfunctional, ended up draining batt(car wouldnt start)

Started this morning
Had batterry and alternator checked both are fine, checked underhood fuses and underdash fuses(cigar fuse out again), fuses are ok i took off the cable that goes from alt to fuse. Light is still on

Going to auto zone to see if they can scan it.
Done at autozone got code P1401 Manuf. control emissions or something like that, cleared code came back on, went to Oriellys same code but with this description EGR EVP sensor high voltage.

Do i need new EGR or soledoid? also still cant find out why battery light is staying on car ran fine while I was driving

Any help is appreciated!!!:(
 

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did you have this code before the big three? it is p1401 dffe sensor high input from the pcm. i got the same problem. i thought it was before i did the big three i will do some playing around to see if i can come up with any thing.
 

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got a question for you did you up ghrade your alternator?


i took all my wire off and still a code but when i did my alt i verfied the power by measureing voltage it was 13.8 volts dc for the stock alt. The new one put out about 14.64 volts dc. this upped the voltage on a lot of circuits. i may put the stock alt back in to see if i am right but who knows.
 

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just swaped out my alt to the factory one and there are no codes just a fyi for those that have a p1401 code that was from a after market motorcityreman.com one mite sell the taurus now lol's
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1. I got this code after doing big three
2.the code said p1401 EGR EVP Sensor high voltage
3. alt is stock

Went and searched about the code heard a lot about it might be the DPFE also so i got EGR solenoid part No. EGR3001 at Oreillys and DPFE sensor.

I dont think i said this but after I did big 3 I turned my car on and it started, but the battery light was on. Drove it around drove like it did before.
When i got home I installed an amp and 2 12 inch Subwoofers. Amp turned on fine, turned gain about 1/2. Went to go drive around again, and was messing with eq knob and CEL turned on went home and called it a night.(that was yesterday)

Today I went to Autozone and Oreillys and came back home to post what i posted earlier.

Looked around about the code and called my uncle then, I went back to Oreillys to get those 2 parts. I figured my car was driving fine so i was going to go over to my gf moms house to swim, i would replace those 2 parts while i was over there.

Was driving to said house and turned up radio to 30(goes to 50, sub setting at +8 out of 8) and subs started to sound funny so i turned it off and turned around cause i only got about 6 blocks away, went to gas station to turn around and car woulnt go:angry: got almost to my house and it died(uphill about a block) gf came back and was able to push button to pop trunk and get cables to jump my car.

Gonna go put parts on, see if CEL goes off.

I know now my amp and speakers are pulling too much power from the battery. The amp is a T5001BD and speakers are P312d2 X2.

Do i need a Higher battery the one i have in there is rated at CCA [email protected] degrees F, and CCA [email protected] 32 degrees F.
Do I need a capacitor or a higher rated alternator?
Do I need another battery?

Thank you for helping.
 

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do you own a haynes manaul if you do look up the dpfe sensor in the book. under it says the voltage has to be 5 volts plus or minus .1 volt tolarence. this is the imput for the dpfe which is the brown wire white stripe . off the brain so if seeing some thing like 5.4 volt you are over the rated voltage by .3 volts. with a upgrade alt mine was too high when i swaped in the old one the voltage went down at the dpfe. but since i ran a stereo on it killing the alt before i took it out then when i turned on the high powered one in the car it came back on so i am assumeing there is some thing wrong with your alt. take it out have it tested for reliabilty i am thinking yours is broken. also if you up grade it will most like still have a p1401 which is a dpfe sensor high input. just like mine does. there is no specfic high/output replacement for this car. it would be best to up grade but remember you will still have the code unless you are willing to lose the stereo it's self and go with a stock alt would be the only way to get rid of the code. if it was me i would live with the code with a h/o alt unless i lived in a carb state.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I have stock alt, and CEL came on after it almost died last night while driving. battery light has been on since big 3, i think neg terminal clamp is to blame for battery light(will not tighten, still loose). Any specific kind i should get? I have some gold plated ones now i will update tomorrow after i get new terminal.

Alt and batt were both checked and are ok

What kind of tool would i need to check voltage? I do have chiltons manual I believe they are the same.
 

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I have stock alt, and CEL came on after it almost died last night while driving. battery light has been on since big 3, i think neg terminal clamp is to blame for battery light(will not tighten, still loose). Any specific kind i should get? I have some gold plated ones now i will update tomorrow after i get new terminal.

Alt and batt were both checked and are ok

What kind of tool would i need to check voltage? I do have chiltons manual I believe they are the same.

this will test voltage

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?mv=rr

the manuals are the same and ya tighten or replace the terminal. the problem is with the p1401 the alt may check out but could be raising the voltage of all circuits in the car. this one has to be dead on this is why i threw my oem alt in tonight just to prove a point it lowered the voltage on the v ref termaninal you can find the dpfe in the wire diagrams in the bck of the chiltons book. do some traceing and you will find vref is a brown wire with white stripe. it is attached to multiple sensors. the only thing that can raise the voltage on that wire is the alt being slightly out of tune with the voltage regulator on the alt. any ways shoot for the the terminal and if you can try to fix the dpfe one later. with the dpfe being out of tune it will not fire the egr so you will run lean on fuel to air ratio's which can and will wreck the cats. if you can i would just leave it and drive the car and not worry about it like i do. sooner or later you will have another car maybe lol's. but yep that the problem is the dpfe is seeing to high of voltage on v ref.
 

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IMHO it sounds like you have charging system problems. Either your Alternator is messed up or you mega fuse is blown. Since you say your alternator is fine... did you check you mega fuse? BTW you cant eye ball the mega fuse to see if its blown.. you need to test it with a DMM.

BTW this is why they tell you to unhook the battery, add the 3 wire and then hook the battery back up. Im no code expert but that seems to be the problem... I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
After checking the extra wire i took off(from alt positive to fuse) I think said wire was touching case of alt. I am pretty sure i fried something, gonna go put new clamps on. see if batt light goes off.

I checked the regular fuses under the mega fuse cap, not the big square things under there with it.

Should i get the whole megafuse assembly at pick and pull if the new terminals dont work?

Also i did unhook battery when i did big three. I think the wire I put from alt+ to fuse shorted out on the case.(copper thing on end of connection was bolted to alt+ was sticking out a bit and touching the case)

gonna go buy one of those DMMs
Thank you for your time!!!

SIGH...
 

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you may have popped your megafuse
that is what that large spark was when you hooked your negative up after the big three

if you slide the cover up on the UHJB, then you should be able to see if the fuse melted
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Im a Dumbass

Thank you guys, mega fuse was blown I looked in my chiltons to see where it was at. If I wouldnt have tried tried to be fancy by adding a wire from the alt to the fuse, none of this would have happened.:(

Radio sounds good:D no other problems so far ended up getting a new alt and megafuse, I bet the old alt still works. Might end up getting a capacitor if I get any dimming headlights.

Again thank you sadistic, sojiaraggs9000, and therealm0rh0us for helping me out!
 

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Np np, I figued it was the mega fuse... i had a similar problem... but i dropped a wrench on my alt lol...
 

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Thank you guys, mega fuse was blown I looked in my chiltons to see where it was at. If I wouldnt have tried tried to be fancy by adding a wire from the alt to the fuse, none of this would have happened.:(

Radio sounds good:D no other problems so far ended up getting a new alt and megafuse, I bet the old alt still works. Might end up getting a capacitor if I get any dimming headlights.

Again thank you sadistic, sojiaraggs9000, and therealm0rh0us for helping me out!
I did the exact same thing, no fun what so ever.

just btw, a capacitor won't help. a capacitor only adds another stress to your electrical system, but it would help your amplifiers a bit if you have a high output alternator. If you do need another alternator go with a high output one, that should fix the problem, and help your power hungry amplifiers.

(losers, haven't they heard less is more? :D)
 

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I did the exact same thing, no fun what so ever.

just btw, a capacitor won't help. a capacitor only adds another stress to your electrical system, but it would help your amplifiers a bit if you have a high output alternator. If you do need another alternator go with a high output one, that should fix the problem, and help your power hungry amplifiers.

(losers, haven't they heard less is more? :D)
1. I agree a cap is like adding a band-aid. You're still bleeding volts. You'd be better off geting a bigger battery.

2. You don't need a high output alt unless your doin like 2k-3k+.

Im running 3k watts @ .5 ohms. Resting @ 15.5 volts and with volume @ 3/4 it drops to no less than 13.3 volts. Stock alt, XS3100D battery in the trunk and a redtop under the hood.
 

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1. I agree a cap is like adding a band-aid. You're still bleeding volts. You'd be better off geting a bigger battery.

2. You don't need a high output alt unless your doin like 2k-3k+.

Im running 3k watts @ .5 ohms. Resting @ 15.5 volts and with volume @ 3/4 it drops to no less than 13.3 volts. Stock alt, xs3100d battery in the trunk and a redtop under the hood.
nice
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Good info

Thats good to know ive been thinkin about getting an optima but i just got this battery in January. No noticeable dimming. Speakers sound excellent.

Also I dont know if it is possible to wire my 2 subs for one ohm. i have them wired for 2 ohms right now. Sure would like that extra 250 rms:D
I have only seen a 1 ohm diagram for 2X4 ohm DVC speakers

Should i talk to the guy I bought them from to see if i can trade for some P312D4's

My subs are 2X P312d2
Amp is T5001BD

Sorry if i should have started another thread:unsure:
 

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Ah yeah your right... I read it @ he had 4ohm dvc. Anyways the subs arnt the ptoblem.. its the amp. Them punches are 500rms each. Even if he got the 4ohm one he still only be giving each sub 250watts. The amp you have it great, its just not powerful enough. What I would suggest is a RF T10001BD. You can find one of the older Gold and Black (fan cooled) ones on ebay. They are beasts and way unrated. They're rated 1000 x 1 @ 1ohm, 750 x 1 @ 2ohm and 500 x 1 @ 4ohm. Butfrom the 3 that I've owned they all been benched @ more than factory rating. Mine where more like 1500 x 1 @1ohm, 980 @ 2ohm and 753 x 1 @ 4ohm.
 
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