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Is there any vehicle that the spacer will fit a gen 3 taurus? I know there a 3.8 v-6 stang tb that is interchangeable, but the prob is the 94-98 v-6 stang is only 50mm and the newer ones are 65mm, so Im screwed, by the way what is a stock tb off a gen 3 anyway I thought it was 55mm? am I wrong?
 

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I'm not sure why you would want to do that.
 
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A TB spacer does nothing on a multiport FI motor like ours. On a TBI engine, like my Suburban, they work.
 

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Save your money for a real modification. If you find one and buy it, you'll rave about it and cause arguments and say that it works, but in 6 months the placibo effect would have worn off and you'll realize that it never worked in the first place and you'll regret it and realize you were an a**.
 
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Originally posted by mykej27@Jan 5 2004, 07:00 PM
Save your money for a real modification. If you find one and buy it, you'll rave about it and cause arguments and say that it works, but in 6 months the placibo effect would have worn off and you'll realize that it never worked in the first place and you'll regret it and realize you were an a**.
Couldn't have said it better myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yeah Im putting the money towards my udp which will actually do something, thanks for the nice words mike,
 

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Originally posted by taurus8916@Jan 5 2004, 10:28 PM
yeah Im putting the money towards my udp which will actually do something, thanks for the nice words mike,
No problem. I just hate to see someone waste their money on a gimmick.

A UDP will actually work, mind you that becuase you are increasing the size of your UDP, it may have a +/- effect on the performance of the other accessories like your altenator, water pump, and air conditioning. The one thing you would need to worry about is your altenator. I've heard that you lose about 15% in charging power, because you will have less rotation.
You can remedy that by upgrading your altenator. If memory serves me right, you can switch to a SHO alternator. It produces a larger amps (180 or 220, I think)and has a larger pully and holds a better charge at lower rpms. As a result, you may need a longer serpentine belt to match the length.

In case you didn't know this, at higher speeds (+120mph) a larger UDP will allow your accesories to maintain stability at higher speeds, because rotation is lower then with the stock UDP. This is why the rev limiter is set as low as they are (between 110 to 120), to keep from distroying your accesories.
 

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Originally posted by mykej27+Jan 6 2004, 12:22 PM-->QUOTE (mykej27 @ Jan 6 2004, 12:22 PM)
<!--QuoteBegin-taurus8916
@Jan 5 2004, 10:28 PM
yeah Im putting the money towards my udp which will actually do something, thanks for the nice words mike, 
No problem. I just hate to see someone waste their money on a gimmick.

A UDP will actually work, mind you that becuase you are increasing the size of your UDP, it may have a +/- effect on the performance of the other accessories like your altenator, water pump, and air conditioning. The one thing you would need to worry about is your altenator. I've heard that you lose about 15% in charging power, because you will have less rotation.
You can remedy that by upgrading your altenator. If memory serves me right, you can switch to a SHO alternator. It produces a larger amps (180 or 220, I think)and has a larger pully and holds a better charge at lower rpms. As a result, you may need a longer serpentine belt to match the length.

In case you didn't know this, at higher speeds (+120mph) a larger UDP will allow your accesories to maintain stability at higher speeds, because rotation is lower then with the stock UDP. This is why the rev limiter is set as low as they are (between 110 to 120), to keep from distroying your accesories.[/b]
Actually the Gen2 SHO alternator is 140 amps, and the Gen 3 is 160 amps. And you wouldn't want a larger pulley on the alternator. Ideally, you want a smaller pulley on the crank to slow down the belt speed (relative to the engine rpm.) To compensate, you'd want a smaller pulley on the alternator to speed the alterator back up. This would keep the alternator moving at the normal speed, while everything else (water pump, PS, A/C) would be moving slower and loading the engine less, but you wouldn't sacrifice the alternator output.

Then you'd want a VAK, so there is no accessory load at WOT, even from the alternator.
 

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Originally posted by SixFoFalcon+Jan 6 2004, 09:40 AM-->QUOTE (SixFoFalcon @ Jan 6 2004, 09:40 AM)
Originally posted by [email protected] 6 2004, 12:22 PM
<!--QuoteBegin-taurus8916
@Jan 5 2004, 10:28 PM
yeah Im putting the money towards my udp which will actually do something, thanks for the nice words mike, 

No problem. I just hate to see someone waste their money on a gimmick.

A UDP will actually work, mind you that becuase you are increasing the size of your UDP, it may have a +/- effect on the performance of the other accessories like your altenator, water pump, and air conditioning. The one thing you would need to worry about is your altenator. I've heard that you lose about 15% in charging power, because you will have less rotation.
You can remedy that by upgrading your altenator. If memory serves me right, you can switch to a SHO alternator. It produces a larger amps (180 or 220, I think)and has a larger pully and holds a better charge at lower rpms. As a result, you may need a longer serpentine belt to match the length.

In case you didn't know this, at higher speeds (+120mph) a larger UDP will allow your accesories to maintain stability at higher speeds, because rotation is lower then with the stock UDP. This is why the rev limiter is set as low as they are (between 110 to 120), to keep from distroying your accesories.
Actually the Gen2 SHO alternator is 140 amps, and the Gen 3 is 160 amps. And you wouldn't want a larger pulley on the alternator. Ideally, you want a smaller pulley on the crank to slow down the belt speed (relative to the engine rpm.) To compensate, you'd want a smaller pulley on the alternator to speed the alterator back up. This would keep the alternator moving at the normal speed, while everything else (water pump, PS, A/C) would be moving slower and loading the engine less, but you wouldn't sacrifice the alternator output.

Then you'd want a VAK, so there is no accessory load at WOT, even from the alternator.
[/b]
Oh, yeah. I always forget about the VAK. I think I may get one of those someday.

Sorry for going way off topic here.
 

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Originally posted by mykej27@Jan 5 2004, 08:00 PM
Save your money for a real modification. If you find one and buy it, you'll rave about it and cause arguments and say that it works, but in 6 months the placibo effect would have worn off and you'll realize that it never worked in the first place and you'll regret it and realize you were an a**.
Ha! O so true.
 

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Originally posted by mykej27@Jan 6 2004, 12:22 PM
In case you didn't know this, at higher speeds (+120mph) a larger UDP will allow your accesories to maintain stability at higher speeds, because rotation is lower then with the stock UDP. This is why the rev limiter is set as low as they are (between 110 to 120), to keep from distroying your accesories.
I know its off topic, and im not helping bring it back on topic. I also might be confused by your post. But I though the governors were because of the cheap tires on our cars from the factory, and the rev limiters because the accessories can't handle high rpms, nor can say a Vulcan for example. It shouldn't matter how fast you go interms of miles per hour, as having an affect on accessories (unless your revving it to about 8000+). But the engine speed is what has a negative effect. Thats why SHO's (89-95) for instance can do 140 and not have accessory problems but if they rev to 8,000+ (I heard they can rev real high but the accessories can't) they will grenade the accessories.

Am I confused?


Nick Saturday
 
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But I think I read somwhere that the vulcan can rev higher that what the limiter is at....
I could be wrong though.
 

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Originally posted by SaturdaysVulcan+Jan 10 2004, 04:03 PM-->QUOTE (SaturdaysVulcan @ Jan 10 2004, 04:03 PM)
<!--QuoteBegin-mykej27
@Jan 6 2004, 12:22 PM
In case you didn't know this, at higher speeds (+120mph) a larger UDP will allow your accesories to maintain stability at higher speeds, because rotation is lower then with the stock UDP. This is why the rev limiter is set as low as they are (between 110 to 120), to keep from distroying your accesories.
I know its off topic, and im not helping bring it back on topic. I also might be confused by your post. But I though the governors were because of the cheap tires on our cars from the factory, and the rev limiters because the accessories can't handle high rpms, nor can say a Vulcan for example. It shouldn't matter how fast you go interms of miles per hour, as having an affect on accessories (unless your revving it to about 8000+). But the engine speed is what has a negative effect. Thats why SHO's (89-95) for instance can do 140 and not have accessory problems but if they rev to 8,000+ (I heard they can rev real high but the accessories can't) they will grenade the accessories.

Am I confused?


Nick Saturday[/b]
Nope, you are not confused. You are correct.


Even a V8SHO going 145mph is only running at about 5,000 rpms, so unless you were to keep it there for several minutes, it wouldn't hurt your accessories. Even then, I still don't think you'd have any problems.

The rev limiters were put there because of the engine itself. Ask Twilight about running a Duratec at high rpms. The engine gives out before the accessories.
 

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Originally posted by SixFoFalcon+Jan 10 2004, 04:18 PM-->QUOTE (SixFoFalcon @ Jan 10 2004, 04:18 PM)
Originally posted by [email protected] 10 2004, 04:03 PM
<!--QuoteBegin-mykej27
@Jan 6 2004, 12:22 PM
In case you didn't know this, at higher speeds (+120mph) a larger UDP will allow your accesories to maintain stability at higher speeds, because rotation is lower then with the stock UDP. This is why the rev limiter is set as low as they are (between 110 to 120), to keep from distroying your accesories.

I know its off topic, and im not helping bring it back on topic. I also might be confused by your post. But I though the governors were because of the cheap tires on our cars from the factory, and the rev limiters because the accessories can't handle high rpms, nor can say a Vulcan for example. It shouldn't matter how fast you go interms of miles per hour, as having an affect on accessories (unless your revving it to about 8000+). But the engine speed is what has a negative effect. Thats why SHO's (89-95) for instance can do 140 and not have accessory problems but if they rev to 8,000+ (I heard they can rev real high but the accessories can't) they will grenade the accessories.

Am I confused?


Nick Saturday
Nope, you are not confused. You are correct.


Even a V8SHO going 145mph is only running at about 5,000 rpms, so unless you were to keep it there for several minutes, it wouldn't hurt your accessories. Even then, I still don't think you'd have any problems.

The rev limiters were put there because of the engine itself. Ask Twilight about running a Duratec at high rpms. The engine gives out before the accessories. [/b]
Rev limiters actually have 3 stages/purposes. First and foremost is to protect the engine from overreving. That would be the the park/neutral limiter. Then a max engine limit which is alot higher then they are set.

Second is accessories. Accessories have a duty load like any spinning device and they are built to operate best at one range and acceptable at lower and higher but their is always a limit on the high end to keep costs down. This is another reason for underdriving accessories. It can let you shift higher without stressing the accessories. I think it was 96sleeper that blow the fins out of his duratec water pump from over reving.

Third and the reason why everyone wants the limiter off and can't figure why it is so low is TIRES. Most factory tires are S rated 112mph 180kph and this is considered the bottom of the line for acceptable tires. So for safety standards the car needs to be limited to 112. Unless the car is tagged specifically for higher rated tires then the limiter is higher. But they specifically have to state that the tires must be of a certain range or higher.

But since most car manufacturers are cheap and want to cover their butts they stick with 112. I know the stock Generals on my 99 are T rated which is 118mph 190kph but they also had other S rated tires so they aren't gonna have a higher limit on some cars just based on tires.

So when a chip manufacture removes the limiter and you still run s rated tires they are liable if you blow out a tire from excessive speed. I hope they send you guys disclaimers with your chips.
 
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So when a chip manufacture removes the limiter and you still run s rated tires they are liable if you blow out a tire from excessive speed. I hope they send you guys disclaimers with your chips.[/b]
Actually, they're not. You can't hold them liable because by going that fast you were breaking several laws while attaining/driving that speed. You were, in some states, "reckless driving" just based on your speed. It's a nitpicky detail to be sure but when its time to pay out money for anything the insurance companies will be glad to bring it to your attention.

If I get killed while driving without a seatbelt, my wife won't get my insurance money because it was the law that I wear one. Lame, but the way some things are these days, thanks to everyone suing everyone else at the drop of a hat.

Disclaimer: As I'm not a lawyer or insurance underwriter, there may be something I missed or stated incorrectly and if anyone here who is wants to correct me, please do so.
 

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You don't have to break the law to exceed 110 mph. If someone takes their car to the track and starts doing laps and blows the tire out they didn't do anything illegal.

Most insurance policies do include provisions for track use though--they don't cover it usually.
 

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The OEM SHO pulleys on all years are different than the ones used on the Vulcan's. They are larger. I wouldn't doubt that the Duratec's are a different diameter and larger than the Vulcan's.
 

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i have a question about something earlier in this post...I saw mention of the Vacuum Accessory Killer VAK and i have a question about that and several other things related to it. The source of the VAC system is somewhere on or near the trottle body right? Would messing with the intake thus mess with the VAC system? Is it true that the VAC system actuates some things in the automatic transmission? What accessories does the VAK "kill"? What benefits do you see from getting a VAK? Where can you get one? Is this post an incoherent and ill thought out series of questions?
 
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