Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 99 3.0 24v Taurus and recently had a power steering pump that began to squeak and the car began losing steering power. Towards the end of its life it also began to leak some oil. I bought a reman'd pump from Autozone and installed the pump. I thought that it was odd that the high pressure fitting on the high pressure line spun freely on the line until it was snugged up with the pump. I installed everything including the Teflon seal that I needed to soak in water and stretch a bit on a tapered punch. Put new steering fluid in and whola! it leaks at the high pressure fitting on the backside of the pump. :angry: Do you guys think the line is bad, bad pump, or should I try reinstalling the pump with a new Teflon o-ring and Teflon tape on the fitting?

Thanks for the help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,566 Posts
PS fitting

I have a 99 3.0 24v Taurus and recently had a power steering pump that began to squeak and the car began losing steering power. Towards the end of its life it also began to leak some oil. I bought a reman'd pump from Autozone and installed the pump. I thought that it was odd that the high pressure fitting on the high pressure line spun freely on the line until it was snugged up with the pump. I installed everything including the Teflon seal that I needed to soak in water and stretch a bit on a tapered punch. Put new steering fluid in and whola! it leaks at the high pressure fitting on the backside of the pump. :angry: Do you guys think the line is bad, bad pump, or should I try reinstalling the pump with a new Teflon o-ring and Teflon tape on the fitting?

Thanks for the help!
There is a tool for slipping that ring over the threads. A kind of funnel. I am guessing you damaged the teflon ring.

-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,566 Posts
O Ring Tool

There is a tool for slipping that ring over the threads. A kind of funnel. I am guessing you damaged the teflon ring.

-chart-
Here is how the old farm boy does it.

Pic attached. The O ring has to be rolled up and over the threads without stretching it permanently.

The open end of the socke fits over the projection on the fitting so there is no gap for the O ring to fall into as it leaves the socket and goes on the threads.

Tips from the old coot.

-chart-

ps The pic is done an a scrap fitting. I plan to replace the shaft seal on my pump, and the pulley. Pulley is cracked and seal leaking just a tiny bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
207 Posts
Almost everyone uses a Craftsman 10mm, 3/8" drive, deep socket to stretch that Teflon seal prior to installation like shown above. It has a nice taper to it.

The "union" should turn with some difficulty on the high-pressure line. If yours spun freely on the tube, you're missing the internal o-ring that seals it to the tube and that is the source of your leak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The "union" should turn with some difficulty on the high-pressure line. If yours spun freely on the tube, you're missing the internal o-ring that seals it to the tube and that is the source of your leak.
Can this internal o-ring be replaced or will the whole tube need to be replaced? Anyone have a part number on the high pressure line?

I'm thinking I may have damaged the Teflon o-ring during installation. Should the o-ring be tight around the fitting after the threads or should it be loose after going over the threads?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
I don't have experience with this repair but I have dealt with lots of orings and in a situation like this they should fit snuggly, not loose on the fitting after you put it on. You shouldn't soak orings in water or try to stretch them with a taper punch. The oring is a certain size for the application, when you alter it you change the size and the sealing qualities of it. Using a socket and tape to put the oring on is a good idea, but stretching it isn't! Get a new one and try again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,566 Posts
High Pressure Line

The high pressure line, as seen in the pic a couple posts before this one, should be firm on the tube, but you can turn it by hand.

Spinning free is bad, turning frimly with fingers is OK. Modest resistance.

Failure should be rare unless it has been abused in removal.

-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,566 Posts
O Ring

I don't have experience with this repair but I have dealt with lots of orings and in a situation like this they should fit snuggly, not loose on the fitting after you put it on. You shouldn't soak orings in water or try to stretch them with a taper punch. The oring is a certain size for the application, when you alter it you change the size and the sealing qualities of it. Using a socket and tape to put the oring on is a good idea, but stretching it isn't! Get a new one and try again.
I agree.

The O ring is smaller than the recess OD where it fits. Problem is getting it over the threads without damage. The factory tool is a funnel with a thin wall over the threads to protect the ring from the threads cutting it and stretch it just enough to get it on the nut recess. When it is on the nut recess, it should be snug on the OD. Thus it will extrude to the shape of the body and the nut flange. The duct tape will fill the bill quite well.

The O ring is cheap, if not sure it is good, best to start over. Any leak here will be a mess.

-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I used the duct tape/socket method and it still did not fit snug over the area which it should be on. Should the o ring be able to spin freely??? or should it not move at all? The hard line does seems to have some in and out play in it and it does turn with some difficulty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
I used the duct tape/socket method and it still did not fit snug over the area which it should be on. Should the o ring be able to spin freely??? or should it not move at all? The hard line does seems to have some in and out play in it and it does turn with some difficulty.
The hard line has in and out play after it is tightened? If so something is not right and that is why the leak. When tightened the hard line will not move at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,566 Posts
O Ring

The hard line has in and out play after it is tightened? If so something is not right and that is why the leak. When tightened the hard line will not move at all.
The O ring is ID 0.516" and the nut land is 0.562" thus it ~.046" tight, by the numbers. (spec on O ring is 33/64" ID)

I disagree on the end play on the line.

There is nothing to change it whan installed vs not installed. It will have a slight endplay, and still turn. Mine on my working unit on the car can be turned a bit and it is not leaking. Niether was the one I took off at Pick A Part.

-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The O ring is ID 0.516" and the nut land is 0.562" thus it ~.046" tight, by the numbers. (spec on O ring is 33/64" ID)
Excuse my ignorance, but I'm assuming this means that the O-Ring should be tight around the nut land without any movement?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,566 Posts
High Pressure Line

Excuse my ignorance, but I'm assuming this means that the O-Ring should be tight around the nut land without any movement?
The nut goes tight into the body. It squashes the teflon ring for a seal. It is a one time thing for the ring. I do not think there is a troque spec as it would be quite difficult to measure. There is some movement available from the line to the nut that allows the line to not be stressed. Hope this helps. I am doing this today.

As as to your 'ignorance' we are all ignorant according to it's definition. Lack of information. No ignorant question here.

And hey, I am 71 and been around mechanical stuff all my life, and this is the first time I ever removed a press on pulley.

Good luck on your PS

-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hmm I must be stretching the O-ring when I go over the threads because it is not tight around the nut landing every time I do it..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
As as to your 'ignorance' we are all ignorant according to it's definition. Lack of information. No ignorant question here.

And hey, I am 71 and been around mechanical stuff all my life, and this is the first time I ever removed a press on pulley.

Good luck on your PS

-chart-

Thanks, I'll need it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Alright guys here's an update. I went through a few more o-rings and found out that the line appears to be leaking before the threads that go into the pump on the high pressure line. Are there any way to put new o-rings in this line or do I have to buy a whole new line. I believe part is about $100+ for an auto parts store and I'm trying to do this on the cheap. Is this part also hard to remove and reinstall?
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top