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1,018 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Last weekend I replaced the Power Steering Pump (Motorcraft) and High Pressure Line (Gates) on a 1997 Duratec engine. The reason for the replacement because the high pressure line was leaking badly at the pump. This sprayed hydraulic fluid everywhere including the pulleys and the belt.

I got both parts at rockauto.com

Tools needed:
Metric Crowsfoot (SK & Craftsman) and Metric Wrenches
Metric Stubby Wrenches 16mm + 18mm
OEM Power Steering Kit Service Kit 27031
Bare hack saw blade

The challenges for this project are removing and installing the power steering pump pulley. Removing and installing the high pressure power steering line .

You MUST remove the coolant reservoir to remove/install the power steering pulley while on the engine. This gives tool access for removal and installation. Drain about three-quarters of a gallon of coolant from the radiator drain ****.

Use the OEM Service Kit (Autozone) to remove and install the pulley. KD tools makes a similar service kit but you'll struggle trying to install the pulley on because the install bolt isn't long enough to press the pulley on all the way. OEM Service Kit does not have this issue.


Jack up the front end of the car and put on jack stands and remove front wheels. Remove the outer tie rods from steering knuckle.

Drain the power steering fluid on the passenger side of the rack-and-pinion. 16mm wrench or 16mm crowfoot. Remove the power steering reservoir hose between reservoir and pump. Remove the drive belt. Once the fluid is drained re-tighten the 16mm flare nut. Remove power steering reservoir.

After removing the coolant reservoir, pull off your power steering pulley with the clam shell pieces from the OEM kit, on the engine. Note the location of the pulley to the shaft because you'll want the same position when installing the pulley on to the new pump. When you start removing the pulley you'll hear a pop and see the pulley moving off of the power steering shaft. Be careful because this pulley is made out of hard plastic and its easy to chip or put hair line cracks in it.

After the pulley is removed take a 18mm wrench and remove the high pressure line from the power steering pump, remove power steering clamp from alternator bracket. Remove the power steering pump from engine with 10mm wrench, 3-bolts here.

The OEM power steering line is held in by 2 clamps at the bottom of the firewall. One is nylon, passenger side, pull on this until it comes free. The drivers side bolt is 10mm and you'll have to use a socket and ratchet for this, flashlight as well because it is really dark. Use the flashlight and find the other end of the power steering hose, drivers side. It's an 18mm flare nut and chances are it's on really tight. I would recommend using a hack saw blade and cut the steel tubing near the fitting to get an 18mm boxed wrench or socket for removal. Space is tight here so I used my bare hands and the hack saw blade only. In about 15-minutes you should be done with cutting the old tubing away from the fitting. Use a boxed end wrench to remove fitting.

Before you remove the OEM power steering hose note how it is routed at the bottom of the firewall. The hose is some type of tray, make SURE you put the new hose here. If memory serves me correctly you have to route the new hose underneath the O2 wiring harness. Rerouting the NEW hose will be difficult but manageable. The hose catches it seem on everything.

On the drivers side remove the air cleaner and loosen the tube for the automatic trans-axle (dipstick). This gives access to the 18mm fitting, top side, I'll explain in a minute.

Install OEM clamps on to new power steering hose. Install new power steering hose by routing in the tray and under the 02 wiring harness. Take your time here and be patient. Once the hose is in place align the new fitting to the rack-and-pinion. Space here is really tight, so have a partner press from top side press with their finger down on to the fitting while you bottom side start turning the flare nut with 18mm stubby wrench. Once the treads catch into the rack-and-pinion, stop and see if you can reinstall the passenger and driver's side power steering clamps.

Complete the tightening the 18mm flare nut on the rack-and-pinion. Use the crowfoot wrench for final tightening. I used the SK 18mm flare nut wrench set here for final tightening.

Install the new power steering pump onto the engine using the removed 3-bolts. Install and tighten the new hose to the power steering pump, 18mm flare fitting here as well.

I used some bicycle grease to put on the power steering pump shaft for pulley installation. From the OEM kit use the install tool and start pressing on the pulley. Make sure you tread this tool in as far as it will go because it will be tight. Press on the pulley until it aligns to the end of the power steering shaft (in my scenario) or as you remembered it before you removed the pulley (see removal).

Install the power steering reservoir and coolant reservoir. Install power steering reservoir hose. Install drive belt. Fill up the power steering reservoir with Mercon V. Start the engine and check for leaks. Re-install the tie rod ends and wheels.

This project is very challenging, if you don't have the tools or patience then do not attempt.


55 Posts

Well, I did everything above but did not disconnect the tie rods yet.

Driver side AirBox removal:

I did discover if you remove the sensor/switch to the right of the pressure line fitment you will create plenty of space to get the stubby 18MM box wrench in there. I was struggling with the socket extension and crows foot. No room to break that sucka loose.

It's clean right now because I used electronics part cleaner, definitely source of the leak

Taking a break, too dark to continue. :)




2,034 Posts
i find it curious how it was leaking. I know on the 3.0 Vulcan pumps there
are two orings on the high pressure side that sticks into the pump.
does yours have the orings and did you try to replace them first?

I changed the rack on my 98 and getting the lines on the rack were
a treat. that short 18mm will bust your knuckles until its all tight.


55 Posts
Hey Bob :) ( love your sig )

If you are asking me, the leak at the pump was coming from the pipe itself not the threaded area, literally squirting out and the nut was tight as it can be. The knuckle side was dripping like crazy again tight as can be based on the crack of the crowfoot to it. I will keep an eye on that side to see if switch gave way. I know pressure switches tend to leak at times.

As far as o-rings are concerned, the original old FORD part only had one hard teflon type oring behind the threads near the nut, no real way to remove and replace a proper fitting one, maybe it is a Duratec thing, who knows.

The FLAPS part was the same thing a single hard oring on both ends requiring 10-20 ft lbs

I have successfully installed the line but puller broke the wheel so I need to replace and test the system, off to the FLAPS.



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