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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I have a 2000taurus w/ 3L. PS pump is making noise like there's no fluid so I'm thinking it's bad even though it was very recently replaced w/ a new one from PepBoys. Also the fluid rises in the neck of the filler and shoots out the cap once I shut the engine off. Will changing the pump stop these problems??? Thanks a lot! Larry
 

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make sure you read the owner manual the fluid is not ps fluid any more the newer cars are using like mercron and mercron v trans fluid in the power steering pump. so be aware of it it could also be that the ps filter is pluged so keep that in mind too. it may be not returning enough fluid. those would be the fist things i would look at before i just replace the pump. pumps cost a ton were the filter or even the flid is cheaper yet.
 

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Also, the new one from Pepboys is probably not new, it is probably a remanufactured one. Either way, I have learned to shy away from many aftermarket parts, especially remans. I would go for a new or remaned Motorcraft brand.

But first, all of the above, run Mercon V, not generic PS fluid, make sure the filter is not plugged, and make sure that air is not trapped in the system.
 

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^+1. I changed my pump out over the weekend. It took over a hundred times going lock to lock with the tires in the air and motor off and another 40 or so with it running. Before I got the majority of the air out it would shoot out of the ps cap when I shut the car off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks a lot for the advice!!! I'm gonna try to get most of the PS fluid out and put Mercon v in. ( Is it ok if some of the old non-mercon stuff stays in?) I don't seem to have a PS filter. Again ,thanks. Larry
 

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Maybe needs air bled from system?

x3 on that point. also are the lines reversed on the pump? i would find a good diagram and make sure most of all if you did it your self. along with the stuff i said earlier this should be all you need to know also is the belt pulley on straight? another possible noise maker.
 

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Thanks a lot for the advice!!! I'm gonna try to get most of the PS fluid out and put Mercon v in. ( Is it ok if some of the old non-mercon stuff stays in?) I don't seem to have a PS filter. Again ,thanks. Larry

the power steering filter is in the return line under the car attached to the sub frame. the return line is the reservoir fill line from the rack and pinion. do check to make sure there is no air in the system. to bleed you have to run the car and move the steering wheel back and forth several times.
 

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Thanks a lot for the advice!!! I'm gonna try to get most of the PS fluid out and put Mercon v in. ( Is it ok if some of the old non-mercon stuff stays in?) I don't seem to have a PS filter. Again ,thanks. Larry

there is a old debate about the non mercon type i think it should be fine some do not though so it up to you. there is a guy on here running non mercon type in his car at this very minute no problems.
 

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So if i GET THIS RIGHT to bleed the ps system I need to jack up my front tires start the car and turn the steering wheel left and right for about 5 times. Does this need to be done with the ps reservoir cap on or off so that the extra air gets out of the system.

thanks for the clarification!
Dave
 

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So if i GET THIS RIGHT to bleed the ps system I need to jack up my front tires start the car and turn the steering wheel left and right for about 5 times. Does this need to be done with the ps reservoir cap on or off so that the extra air gets out of the system.

thanks for the clarification!
Dave
Unless you have the tool, that's mostly correct. You raise the vehicle (I removed the wheels, but you don't need to) and rotate the wheel lock to lock many, many times while the car is off, or until it stops bubbling in the reservoir. Then start the car up while still jacked, and rotate it with the engine running some more. This is best done by two people, one turning the wheel and one watching the reservoir and topping it as needed. You can also disable the ignition by pulling the fuse and use the starter to rotate the engine and pump slowly, but only in 30 second bursts. Is your steering pump groaning?
 

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Unless you have the tool, that's mostly correct. You raise the vehicle (I removed the wheels, but you don't need to) and rotate the wheel lock to lock many, many times while the car is off, or until it stops bubbling in the reservoir. Then start the car up while still jacked, and rotate it with the engine running some more. This is best done by two people, one turning the wheel and one watching the reservoir and topping it as needed. You can also disable the ignition by pulling the fuse and use the starter to rotate the engine and pump slowly, but only in 30 second bursts. Is your steering pump groaning?
thanks for your quick reply.

I replaced the belt yesterday because my ps pump was RECENTLY CHANGED. mY MECHANIC PUT IN A USED ONE WHICH TO MY SURPRISE HAD SOME IN-OUT PULLEY PLAY BUT ACCORDING TO HIM THIS WAS OK (HE SIAD THAT THe ps pulley should be the only one with play) so today there is squeaking comming from the belt and to the best of my knowledge it is comming from from the pump but was wondering if it was because of shaft play or air in the system!

to clarify as quoted:
step 1
You raise the vehicle (I removed the wheels, but you don't need to) and rotate the wheel lock to lock many, many times while the car is off, or until it stops bubbling in the reservoir.

step 2
Then start the car up while still jacked, and rotate it with the engine running some more.

question: are steps 1 and 2 performed while the cap on the ps fluid reservoir is removed??

gracie!
 

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thanks for your quick reply.

I replaced the belt yesterday because my ps pump was RECENTLY CHANGED. mY MECHANIC PUT IN A USED ONE WHICH TO MY SURPRISE HAD SOME IN-OUT PULLEY PLAY BUT ACCORDING TO HIM THIS WAS OK (HE SIAD THAT THe ps pulley should be the only one with play) so today there is squeaking comming from the belt and to the best of my knowledge it is comming from from the pump but was wondering if it was because of shaft play or air in the system!

to clarify as quoted:
step 1
You raise the vehicle (I removed the wheels, but you don't need to) and rotate the wheel lock to lock many, many times while the car is off, or until it stops bubbling in the reservoir.

step 2
Then start the car up while still jacked, and rotate it with the engine running some more.

question: are steps 1 and 2 performed while the cap on the ps fluid reservoir is removed??

gracie!
To answer your question, yes. You should leave the cap off while you do this, not only to watch but to add fluid as needed.

What does the squeaking sound like exactly? Noise from air in the P/S system (needing to bleed) will cause a loud groaning noise from the pump, there will also be foaming in the reservoir while the engine is running and shortly after it shuts off. If it sucks in enough air this will cause a "backfire" in the P/S system after the car is shut off, which will cause the pump to eject the fluid like it's puking it up (at least the CIIs). If you don't have these symptoms, it's probably safe to say that the pump doesn't need bleeding.

Bearings can cause a high pitched squeal, the belt will make a squeal when it slips. If you can figure out whether it's bearing noise or slippage, then you can move on and pinpoint the issue. The idler pulley, alternator pulley, water pump pulley and tensioner pulley must be checked. You will know the pulley is bad if it makes the slightest noise while turning, if it keeps spinning for a while after you rotate it, or if it has play. If you find any of these 3 issues with a pulley, it should be replaced (the p/s pump doesn't count). I would strongly suggest replacing the tensioner completely, not just the pulley.

If the belt is slipping and it's brand new, it's probably a worn tensioner. Mine was so seized, I stripped the threads to the pulley bolt that you use to release the tension. I literally made the entire engine and transmission rock back and fourth several times before that happened! If you have lots of miles on your car, it might be a good idea to change it out anyway.
 

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To answer your question, yes. You should leave the cap off while you do this, not only to watch but to add fluid as needed.

What does the squeaking sound like exactly? Noise from air in the P/S system (needing to bleed) will cause a loud groaning noise from the pump, there will also be foaming in the reservoir while the engine is running and shortly after it shuts off. If it sucks in enough air this will cause a "backfire" in the P/S system after the car is shut off, which will cause the pump to eject the fluid like it's puking it up (at least the CIIs). If you don't have these symptoms, it's probably safe to say that the pump doesn't need bleeding.

Bearings can cause a high pitched squeal, the belt will make a squeal when it slips. If you can figure out whether it's bearing noise or slippage, then you can move on and pinpoint the issue. The idler pulley, alternator pulley, water pump pulley and tensioner pulley must be checked. You will know the pulley is bad if it makes the slightest noise while turning, if it keeps spinning for a while after you rotate it, or if it has play. If you find any of these 3 issues with a pulley, it should be replaced (the p/s pump doesn't count). I would strongly suggest replacing the tensioner completely, not just the pulley.

If the belt is slipping and it's brand new, it's probably a worn tensioner. Mine was so seized, I stripped the threads to the pulley bolt that you use to release the tension. I literally made the entire engine and transmission rock back and fourth several times before that happened! If you have lots of miles on your car, it might be a good idea to change it out anyway.
There are definately no bubbles in the ps reservoir so I guess that bleeding was performed by my mech (as reqd) as for the tension on the belt is there a physical way to check for tension. I know its not easy to quantify... One thing that I can mention while inspecting the engine bay I realised that the back side of the new belt (side with no grooves) had become a bit grayish in colour and had a certain shine to it...could this be a sign of slipage. When comparing to the old belt, the back side was still black after 170000kms.

On a side note my car does not have an idler pulley (yr 2000 dohc 6cyl)

thanks all!
 

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There are definately no bubbles in the ps reservoir so I guess that bleeding was performed by my mech (as reqd) as for the tension on the belt is there a physical way to check for tension. I know its not easy to quantify... One thing that I can mention while inspecting the engine bay I realised that the back side of the new belt (side with no grooves) had become a bit grayish in colour and had a certain shine to it...could this be a sign of slipage. When comparing to the old belt, the back side was still black after 170000kms.

On a side note my car does not have an idler pulley (yr 2000 dohc 6cyl)

thanks all!
Sorry for my late reply.

Does the belt squeal increase as you put more load on the belt? Such as turning the A/C system on or turning the wheel to the lock while parking? The A/C compressor clutch will disengage every minute or so, then start back up. Watch the A/C clutch and see if the noise suddenly increases as the clutch engages. If there isn't any increase then it might not be slippage. If you have no pulley noise or play what so ever, then I think it might be safe to say it's a tension issue with the belt, especially if it increases by doing what I said above. I would suggest replacing the Tensioner assembly completely, if you don't mind buying more than one or two things to fix it. It's possible that the grayish colour is being caused by slippage, but then again if there's a lot of white text and writing on the belt, maybe it's rubbing off and making it grey?

Here's what a bad pulley sounds like (it's an idler pulley in the video, but any pulley with a similar set of bearings will sound the same.

 

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You can try bleeding it by just turning the steering wheel stop to stop a few times. Ive never had to jack the front end?
 

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You can try bleeding it by just turning the steering wheel stop to stop a few times. Ive never had to jack the front end?
It's far easier turning the wheel manually by hand while the tires are off the ground. It will increase the amount of times you can turn the wheel per minute quite a bit. I have done it without jacking the front, it works fine. Just makes it easier I find. If I recall correctly, the Mitchell bleeding steps don't involve jacking the tires off the ground, but instead you disable the ignition fuse and turn the car over for 30 seconds at a time while turning the wheel until it's bled, I'm going to read up on what it says again.

Edit: I just checked Mitchell and it suggests removing the ignition fuse and hooking up an external vacuum to the system. Wish I had one.
 

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If you're doing it with the wheels off the ground, push the tire lock to lock. Steering wheel spins like mad.
 
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