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Discussion Starter #1
I bought this Taurus used, had 148k miles on it. It now has 160k miles on it, still runs good, in fact it will keep up with my buddies 2003 Pontiac Grand Am GT. So its a great car for the miles. Since I got it though the Power Door Locks will not work. I've checked the fuses, even the relays, even the two additional hidden ones up under the dash, they will try to work, but will not work at all. Yes its all four of them, and no it does not matter rather you try to do it with the passenager, or driver side, they will not unlock, or lock by themselves. They make the noise like they are trying to, but simply will not. I want to verify what it could possibly be before I run out to the junk yard, and rip the door locks out of an wrecked one. From what I've read the little mechanism itself has failed, what I find unbelievably hard to figure out, is that all four one of them went at the same time. My 1999 Ford Expedition sometimes fails to lock the passenger door, but most of the time it will do it on the second try.

Even if I pull the ones at the junk yard out, I don't have a clue how to install them. How hard is it to remove the doors? I really really would like to have my door locks, as I use the car as a gas saver, considering I own a 2008 Ford F450 6.4L PSD, and it gets 12 MPG, and my Expedition has a 4.6L P71 Interceptor in it, and gets around 13 mpg, and will not run worth a crap without premium, and plus the car is really really nice for the age, and runs great. I take pride in all my Fords, and really really would appreciate it, if someone can explain to me how to approach this, and if I have to rip my doors apart, perhaps someone can explain to me how to do it, and how to repair these.
 

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Just had to remove the door panels on my daughter-in-law's 99 Taurus. Was instructed to go to Autozone.com and they have many how-to repair guides. One is for removing the door panels. Go to the home page for Autozone and find the vehicle repair guides link. It will take you to a page for selecting your vehicle. Once selected it will take you to your vehicle's repair guide. From there select Body & Trim. From there select Door Panels. It has a step-by-step with diagrams on how to it!

Word to the wise on mine at least the front doors have three screws around the edge of the panel that must be removed, but the rear doors had none. Also the 11 fasteners are in there pretty good. They are plastic and have grooves in them to catch when pushed in. To remove takes abit of a struggle though. I borrowed a tool from a local repair shop that was forked and would catch the fastener. A wider screwdriver would also probably work. When you get 1 or 2 loose it will help to grab the panel with one hand to pull while removing the next fastener. Puts pressure on them to remove easier.

I know the Taurus has a door lock and door unlock relay. Not sure what relays you've checked, but maybe not these?? Sounds like one of these may be hung up. I believe these relays control all the doors to lock or unlock. I think these are under the dash, but maybe someone with more knowledge can help with that!

Hopefully that gets you in the right direction!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes it certainly can't hurt. I've replaced the two under the dash that are apart from the rest. They do click when I use the power door locks...
 

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Yes it certainly can't hurt. I've replaced the two under the dash that are apart from the rest. They do click when I use the power door locks... [/b]
Being that you purchased it this way, it may have been lack of maintenance by the previous owner. At $100 per door to repair (estimated cost), they probably opted to live without changing it.
 

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I would check the voltage at the relay output when it is clicking/on. May be low volts feeding the lock mechanism.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would check the voltage at the relay output when it is clicking/on. May be low volts feeding the lock mechanism.
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What does that mean if they aren't putting out the correct voltage. I can feel them click when I use the door locks, how do you repair if its not? What do I use to check? How do I go about checking, and what is within voltage range?

At 100$? Nah I will go to liberty pull apart here in Indiana, and grab some off one of these taurus there for probably no more then 20 bucks, if that. However it does not seem likely that all of them would fail. The previous owner before the one that I bought it from was an old lady, and the owner that got it from her was an elderly lady that used her Ford Probe instead, and owed 2300 on the car, which is what I got it for at the time. They do try to work, just not powerful at all, and appear to get weaker the more you try, and its like it charges up again after a bit and they will make a louder sound and a harder attempt at trying to work.

The car was grocery car, it was so carboned up when I got it I floored it, and it wouldn't go over 55 for about 10 miles, and then it popped, spit, and kicked and finally it started acting fine. I know it was carbon because 12k miles later it hasn't done that since.
 

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Well if you have to ask how to check voltage then telling you how to diagnose this is probably a waste of time. But here goes.

You need a voltmeter set on DC.

When you are pushing the switch and here the click have the voltmeter with one lead on the door lock switch terminal and the other lead on a good ground. This will tell you the voltage that is going to the door lock solenoids.

I would say anything under 10V is bad.

If it is under 10V then you need to start going backwards through the wiring in the car to see where it falls as it should be 12V or near what the voltage is at the battery.

I highly doubt that all 4 door lock solenoids are bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well if you have to ask how to check voltage then telling you how to diagnose this is probably a waste of time. But here goes.

You need a voltmeter set on DC.

When you are pushing the switch and here the click have the voltmeter with one lead on the door lock switch terminal and the other lead on a good ground. This will tell you the voltage that is going to the door lock solenoids.

I would say anything under 10V is bad.

If it is under 10V then you need to start going backwards through the wiring in the car to see where it falls as it should be 12V or near what the voltage is at the battery.

I highly doubt that all 4 door lock solenoids are bad.
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Neither did I, and I am pretty good at doing things like this. I am a diesel guy as I posted. I own a 6.4L 2008 F450, and have always owned Ford Diesels. So when it comes to electrical issues, I am at a loss. I assume this requires me to take the door panel off to do this? I am a newbi when it comes to this stuff.

One other thing to tell you is I doubt its the solenoids as well, but I had read some where before that they were prone to going out, and it was the little gears themselves that move the door locks up and down, not the motor things, but anyway I had read that all of them failed on a taurus like mine, but the guy never responded with rather changing them worked, but its annoying because I've had things stolen from me in the past because I failed to notice a door unlocked which is also a pain because alot of the guys where I work car pool, and I always have to lock, and unlock their doors. The windows work great, even the auto feature, the lock window switch works fine, only thing that does not is the door locks. I've replaced the relays under the dash, and found absolutely nothing. I wish someone else had this issue because then I'd know where to start, tracing wires could be hard, and if I found where they went to there is not any guarantee that I will find the issue just by looking.
 

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If they will not lock OR unlock from any door this would point to a common problem which could be either 12V+ or the ground. The switches actually ground the appropriate relay (either lock or unlock), the relays then apply 12V+ voltage in one direction to lock, the other direction to unlock, to the solenoids or motors as Ford calls them. The motor ground is switched at the relays by the appropriate terminal opposite the 12V+ at the time of use. Confusing I know. page 110-001 shows the relays and how this works.

There are two common points in the entire 12V+ system and that is splice #s204 (page 110-001) which goes from the 12V+ fuse to the relay coils and the power. Splice #s306 (on page 110-002) goes from the motors back to the front door lock relays or is the unlock circuit. Both work in a circular logic as a DC motor is easily reversed by reversing the polarity of the voltage going to the motor.

The motors are actually trying to work so the switch and relay trigger circuit(s) is/are good. If you have low voltage at the motor or at the relays compared to a know GOOD ground (metal plate under the dash above the pedals) then the problem is from the fuse to the relays, or even before the fuse.

You would need to test the voltage at the fuse and at the relay on both in and out pins when trying to actuate the locks. If the voltage is low at the relays then that is the problem. If the voltage is good then this would point to a motor ground problem. Voltage in or out of the relays should be the same too as it is all common through the other relay.

The ground for the motors is common, is ground #g201 and there is a common splice #s206. This is where I would start my trouble shooting as it is the one point where everything can work as far as the relays and switches and still everything can fail to function.

So if the ground is the problem either the actual ground point is bad due to corrosion this would cause it, the splice is not a connector so it would be difficult to get to. But if crushed or cut this may be where the trouble is.

Ground # 201 is above the left front kick panel under the dash. F3 in the picture.

Splice s206 is in the main body wiring harness, near Tan/Orange wire to C222. C222 is a large connector above left front kick panel. C222 is for location only and has nothing to do with the door locks. E10 area in the picture and the connector pinout shows the shape of the plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If they will not lock OR unlock from any door this would point to a common problem which could be either 12V+ or the ground. The switches actually ground the appropriate relay (either lock or unlock), the relays then apply 12V+ voltage in one direction to lock, the other direction to unlock, to the solenoids or motors as Ford calls them. The motor ground is switched at the relays by the appropriate terminal opposite the 12V+ at the time of use. Confusing I know. page 110-001 shows the relays and how this works.

There are two common points in the entire 12V+ system and that is splice #s204 (page 110-001) which goes from the 12V+ fuse to the relay coils and the power. Splice #s306 (on page 110-002) goes from the motors back to the front door lock relays or is the unlock circuit. Both work in a circular logic as a DC motor is easily reversed by reversing the polarity of the voltage going to the motor.

The motors are actually trying to work so the switch and relay trigger circuit(s) is/are good. If you have low voltage at the motor or at the relays compared to a know GOOD ground (metal plate under the dash above the pedals) then the problem is from the fuse to the relays, or even before the fuse.

You would need to test the voltage at the fuse and at the relay on both in and out pins when trying to actuate the locks. If the voltage is low at the relays then that is the problem. If the voltage is good then this would point to a motor ground problem. Voltage in or out of the relays should be the same too as it is all common through the other relay.

The ground for the motors is common, is ground #g201 and there is a common splice #s206. This is where I would start my trouble shooting as it is the one point where everything can work as far as the relays and switches and still everything can fail to function.

So if the ground is the problem either the actual ground point is bad due to corrosion this would cause it, the splice is not a connector so it would be difficult to get to. But if crushed or cut this may be where the trouble is.

Ground # 201 is above the left front kick panel under the dash. F3 in the picture.

Splice s206 is in the main body wiring harness, near Tan/Orange wire to C222. C222 is a large connector above left front kick panel. C222 is for location only and has nothing to do with the door locks. E10 area in the picture and the connector pinout shows the shape of the plug.
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Thanks will give this a try Monday when the car gets back. Its in the body shop. I hit a Pontiac Grand Am GT in the side, so hard that it scooted it 6 feet away from my car, put a little scratch in the plastic, and the paint was removed, cost 1500 to fix because it pushed my fender out of adjustment, so it has to be readjusted to get it so the door didn't catch. Can't wait to get it back and try all the stuff the guys here suggested.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
would a problem in just one of the doors cause the door locks not to work? Where is the ground located under the dash perhaps a picture?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
can you post a picture of the ground wire under the dash. I searched for like an hour and half. Never found a ground wire.
 
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