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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was wondering if a 03 vulcan 3.0 could handle 1-3 pounds of boost completely stock also was wondering if theres any aftermarket pistons/rods avail i can weld currently in school for welding...so fabricating stuff wont be a problem....

Other than turbocharging what other options do i have aside from weight reduction and spray for off the line gain
 

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I was wondering if a 03 vulcan 3.0 could handle 1-3 pounds of boost completely stock also was wondering if theres any aftermarket pistons/rods avail i can weld currently in school for welding...so fabricating stuff wont be a problem....

Other than turbocharging what other options do i have aside from weight reduction and spray for off the line gain
The Sticky:
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/87-engine-drivetrain/87395-performance-modifications-your-bull.html

Things I've Done:
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/87-engine-drivetrain/158995-cylinder-heads-again.html

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/87-engine-drivetrain/159888-1-8-1-rockers-valve-spring-upgrade.html

Recent Gravedigs:
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/87-engine-drivetrain/142730-60mm-tb-upgrade-vulcan-motor.html


And to answer your question, a well maintained vulcan's stock internals will enjoy a healthy 7 pound boost before letting go, as our Ranger friends have so graciously tested for us. I'd keep it 6 or lower to be on the safe side.

-Dan
 

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Underdrive pulley from SHOSource.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
anyone know how the ECU would react to boost? anyone know anything about ecu hacking or if theres a EMS like the AEM EMS available to replace the ECU?
 

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anyone know how the ECU would react to boost? anyone know anything about ecu hacking or if theres a EMS like the AEM EMS available to replace the ECU?
Ford's EEC-V is very adaptive, in fact I know of one guy who is using an ECU from a 96 Mustang 3.8L to power a 3.0L SHO engine.

I've known other Ford ECUs, like the CAN ones found in the Mazda6, to be adaptive to light boost.

Bottom line is, still seek out an SCT certified dealer/tuner.
 

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1 - 3 lbs would be ok if you raise the fuel pressure, but realize if it runs lean, engine damage will occur. You really need to go through and upgrade the engine and fuel delivery system to handle it, and then get tuner to adjust the parameters. If you run more than a couple lbs boost you will also need a larger MAF, and probably a larger throttle body as well. There is no simple way around it, it will be expensive to do it right. You can cheap out and it might work for a while. I would buy the engine kits, go in and replace the pistons and rods, I would go with stronger head studs, different valves, the whole works. Once you do that, no need to limit yourself to 2-3 lbs., go all the way to 7-12, maybe even more. You need larger injectors to handle the needs of the motor under boost. And the SCT tuners like the Xcal 3 can tell the computer how to handle all the changes.

Plan on upgrading the trans too, even for only a couple lbs, you need a shift kit at least, ideally a stronger torque converter, and better bands and clutches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
1 - 3 lbs would be ok if you raise the fuel pressure, but realize if it runs lean, engine damage will occur. You really need to go through and upgrade the engine and fuel delivery system to handle it, and then get tuner to adjust the parameters. If you run more than a couple lbs boost you will also need a larger MAF, and probably a larger throttle body as well. There is no simple way around it, it will be expensive to do it right. You can cheap out and it might work for a while. I would buy the engine kits, go in and replace the pistons and rods, I would go with stronger head studs, different valves, the whole works. Once you do that, no need to limit yourself to 2-3 lbs., go all the way to 7-12, maybe even more. You need larger injectors to handle the needs of the motor under boost. And the SCT tuners like the Xcal 3 can tell the computer how to handle all the changes.

Plan on upgrading the trans too, even for only a couple lbs, you need a shift kit at least, ideally a stronger torque converter, and better bands and clutches.

I wasn't planning on running stock internals (forged pistons,rods,some arp bolts,custom intake mani ..... ect just didn't know if anything about the ecu and its abilitys)
 

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The fuel will need to upgraded. A custom manifold is not needed unles you just want to make one.

If you just get a SCT tuner you can tune the SLO as needed. The ECU will need to be told what injectors it has and the other parameters.

Lots of SHO owners run Tweecers with the ECU and can tune turbos and S/c.
 

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if thinking of doing the head and rings pistons etc mite want to use studs instead of head bolts etc... if you can find them. this and a solid copper head gasket. the soild copper gasket will in different thickness change compression ratio's and displacements. same as strokeing a engine if you use a flat dome piston with a rod with a short stroke you achive a diffent compression ratio and displacment. studing the engine will help it handle boost such as nitrous and turbo charging. if considering a nitrous set up go for a wet kit. with a window switch the window switch turn on and off the nitrous at set rpm's so to get the best from the set up.any ways just some stuff to check in to.
 

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if thinking of doing the head and rings pistons etc mite want to use studs instead of head bolts etc... if you can find them. this and a solid copper head gasket. the soild copper gasket will in different thickness change compression ratio's and displacements. same as strokeing a engine if you use a flat dome piston with a rod with a short stroke you achive a diffent compression ratio and displacment. studing the engine will help it handle boost such as nitrous and turbo charging. if considering a nitrous set up go for a wet kit. with a window switch the window switch turn on and off the nitrous at set rpm's so to get the best from the set up.any ways just some stuff to check in to.
You people are looking way too far into this. You don't need super-low compression to boost an engine, the S7 TT pushes 5.5 psi on 11:1 compression. You don't need high-tech base-element head gaskets, our rubber-whatever compound will hold up to 7 or 8 psi (as tested by rangerpowersports.com, link: Supercharged 3.0L Vulcan Registry.)

Basically: bigger injectors (you do the math), turbo/supercharger, SCT tuner. Then enjoy your 260 hp Taurus until it tries to change gears and eats your tranny. Anything over 6 or 7 psi, and no matter what you think you're doing to your engine, the numbers will eat any transmission. There's no T56-equipped Taurus; our transaxles weren't built for torque.
 

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You people are looking way too far into this. You don't need super-low compression to boost an engine, the S7 TT pushes 5.5 psi on 11:1 compression. You don't need high-tech base-element head gaskets, our rubber-whatever compound will hold up to 7 or 8 psi (as tested by rangerpowersports.com, link: Supercharged 3.0L Vulcan Registry.)

Basically: bigger injectors (you do the math), turbo/supercharger, SCT tuner. Then enjoy your 260 hp Taurus until it tries to change gears and eats your tranny. Anything over 6 or 7 psi, and no matter what you think you're doing to your engine, the numbers will eat any transmission. There's no T56-equipped Taurus; our transaxles weren't built for torque.
You are way underthinking this. The S7 TT has a faster computer, knock sensors, boost limiters, etc. It also has a specially shaped combustion chamber. When you run less than 7 psi boost you can do a lot of stuff with high compression, but the potential output is limited, and you have to have finer control over what happens. The EEC-V computer cannot handle the changes fast enough and is not sophisticated enough to run boost and high compression without ruining something.

So you compensate by changing what you can control. The copper gaskets are great because they are thicker than the graphite and they will tolerate a wider range of conditions. The added thickness reduces the compression ratio.

On the trans, the AX4N will hold up to around 300 hp with stock clutches if you raise the line pressure via shift kit. Add a stronger torque converter, and higher quality clutches and numerous valve body tweaks, and up to 600 hp is possible. You can buy the upgrade parts, and some outfits do sell pre-upgraded race trannies.
 

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You are way underthinking this. The S7 TT has a faster computer, knock sensors, boost limiters, etc. It also has a specially shaped combustion chamber. When you run less than 7 psi boost you can do a lot of stuff with high compression, but the potential output is limited, and you have to have finer control over what happens. The EEC-V computer cannot handle the changes fast enough and is not sophisticated enough to run boost and high compression without ruining something.

So you compensate by changing what you can control. The copper gaskets are great because they are thicker than the graphite and they will tolerate a wider range of conditions. The added thickness reduces the compression ratio.

On the trans, the AX4N will hold up to around 300 hp with stock clutches if you raise the line pressure via shift kit. Add a stronger torque converter, and higher quality clutches and numerous valve body tweaks, and up to 600 hp is possible. You can buy the upgrade parts, and some outfits do sell pre-upgraded race trannies.
I never said to push the vulcan to 11:1 compression. Our 9.3:1 is more than fine for 6-7 psi, and if you go stamped steel gaskets with ARP head studs, you can easily hold 12. On stock internals. You can also weld a rocket engine to the roof of your car. But the fact is, this is an inappropriate platform for big HP numbers. If you want to turn it into a dedicated drag car for kicks, then you can go all out with 325 tires extending past the fenders on the front, unable to turn, solid rear suspension to avoid unloading the front tires, and dropping 7 gallons down the 1/4 mile. But for any kind of street car, what will you do with excess of 300 wheel hp at the front?

Ranger guys are getting 300+ whp out of supercharged vulcans, which would equate to a really fun taurus. But going all-out with a $15k race engine and $10k race-build grandma transmission? I dropped $3k on my cylinder heads, and I'll be down another $2k before I'm completely done. Then I'm looking at between 2-3 grand for the transmission build I want. Easily, I'll sink $10k on this project, in addition to what I've already spent on this car. In hindsight, I could have one really fast mustang. I'm only outlining the reality of an FI project. Bigger injectors, your FI setup, and an SCT tune to get everything working correctly. You can argue high-performance theory all day, but don't pretend it's practical.
 

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But for any kind of street car, what will you do with excess of 300 wheel hp at the front?
Have a TON of fun!!



Ranger guys are getting 300+ whp out of supercharged vulcans, which would equate to a really fun taurus. But going all-out with a $15k race engine and $10k race-build grandma transmission? I dropped $3k on my cylinder heads, and I'll be down another $2k before I'm completely done. Then I'm looking at between 2-3 grand for the transmission build I want. Easily, I'll sink $10k on this project, in addition to what I've already spent on this car. In hindsight, I could have one really fast mustang. I'm only outlining the reality of an FI project. Bigger injectors, your FI setup, and an SCT tune to get everything working correctly. You can argue high-performance theory all day, but don't pretend it's practical.
$10K for a race-built "grandma" transmission? How about $3,901 and that includes shipping? This, of course, assuming the Vulcan in question has an AX4N like mine does and you don't have to factor in the cost of sourcing a junk one for rebuild. At that price, you get SHOSource's basic rebuild, plus their "Road Ripper" upgrades and an upgraded and lightened torque converter. In the end, you have a transmission that is well capable of handling daily abuse from a supercharged V8 SHO engine, in a SLO Vulcan package.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Anyone know if theres a set of forged rods that will fit the vulcan 3.0? also pistons if possible....i plan on turboing my taurus... i was going through my garage and found a 14b turbo from my old talon also does anyone know what arp head studs are sold on Morana's site? im not about to over pay for something i could get cheaper...
 

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Anyone know if theres a set of forged rods that will fit the vulcan 3.0? also pistons if possible....i plan on turboing my taurus... i was going through my garage and found a 14b turbo from my old talon also does anyone know what arp head studs are sold on Morana's site? im not about to over pay for something i could get cheaper...
You might want to contact Rogue:

Hard core fasteners and gaskets

He only lists the older ones (Even at that, he is $100 cheaper than Tom Morana). By 1999 model year, the Vulcan switched to longer head bolts, which provided it with better clamping force and better sealing. Rogue also sells the ARP main studs.

As for forged rods and pistons, I've heard of at least one or two guys on Ranger Power Station using SHO rods and pistons (Which are forged). Ebay is a great resource, there are at least two or three reputable salvage dealers on there and they specialize in used SHO parts. Awhile back I saw rods and pistons for $60.

Now to your turbo choice, I plotted the compressor map:



The plot lines are 2,000 RPM, 3,000, 4,000, 5,000, 5,500, 6,000 and 6,500. It won't pass the surge line until 2,800 RPM, hits it's peak at 4,000 and runs out of breath at 5,500 RPM.
 
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