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Discussion Starter #1
A possible preventive maintenance item for the perennial non-working power lock and/or Door Ajar light situations.

I'm presenting here FWIW. Maybe not much. But it's not a great deal of work.

Quite a while ago, JKK posted a picture of a failed door lock actuator, which show corrosion as the enemy -- or at least, one of the enemies -- of the lock actuator, which is a small motor and gear train. Thread is here: http://taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=54327

Based on JKK's post, in Jan 2008 I crudely shot thin-film lubricant down toward the actuator areas of my 98 wagon's doors (only the driver's side was working OK). Within a few days, all four locks worked again. They still do, though the passenger front door lock stops working when it goes below 27 deg. F, it's just too weak.

Like most thin-film oils, the one I used (my favorite, CorrosionX) will "dissolve" rust -- it doesn't really, but it turns powdery-rough, friction-inducing corrosion into a red sludge that at least has some lubricating properties.

Then just a little while ago, SHOZ123 posted pictures of the entire door lock mechanism, in post #12 here: http://taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=66110

Thinking that maybe a coat of water-repelling oil would keep water out of the lock actuator mechanism, I studied the pix and came to the conclusion that there might be oiling access directly to the rearward seam of the actuator if you took out the bottom (single) Torx T-27 screw that mounts the lock to the door.

Sure enough, take out that screw, and you can reach the back of the lock actuator case. It's a handy oiling hole for an aerosol can of thin film / corrosion protectant oil with one of those little red tubes that usually get lost.

I've shot each of my doors through the hole as well as via the latch pawl itself (which should get oil to the actuator arm itself) with CorrosionX. By "pawl," I mean the thick-gage crows-foot thing inside the lock that pivots down and clamps the door shut. I was rewarded by seeing a tiny flow out the drain holes in the bottoms of the doors.

Replace the screws, using Loctite Blue or other removable threadlocker.

WD40 will be useless quickly as it mostly evaporates. CorrosionX does not and there are other brands that likewise continue to work for a long time.

Whether this works to keep the actuators happy and uncorroded, and/or helps stave off the Door Ajar light/message remains to be seen. I'll know in 3-4 years, I guess.

Might even slow down corrosion along the door seam from the lock down to the rear drain hole...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well, it's been 3 full years with a single application and my 04 locks are still happy and strong and nary a Door Ajar incident.

Not that this is the most lively thread around here...

Guess I'll hit them again, and do this procedure on my latest Taurus, a 2000 SE Wagon w/51k on it.

This time I'll take pictures.
 
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