Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've spent the last 45 minutes searching and can't find my scenario, so here goes:

While driving to the next down over in my '94 3.0, I was doing 55MPH or so when the car seemed to act not normal. The temp guage raised slightly but never went into the red. The car seemed to be decelerating and as I pressed the gas pedal down farther, it continued to decelerate. Just a few seconds later the motor shut off and I was able to coast off the highway to a safe stop.

I popped the hood and smelled a burn smell, and quite a bit of smoke coming from all around the motor. The radiator overflow is almost full to the top of the cap, (way above the overflow line) and the radiator itself was cool to the touch, so using my rubber gloves I removed the radiator cap to no pressure and it seemed pretty empty. I poured half gallon of coolant and water in the car and let it cool down. I checked the oil and the oil seemed fine with no contaminants, antifreeze, or anything in it.

After the car cooled down however it will not start. When the motor turns over, it seems to turn over quite quickly, but just simply won't fire off. I fear that although the temp guage never gave me a warning sign, I overheated the motor and now the head gasket or motor are history.

Am I missing something?

Thanks all in advance for help/suggestions!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I tried to start the car again this morning (It's obviously broken anyway, right?) but didn't have any luck. Does the PCM need to be reset in some sort of fashion before it'll allow the motor to start again?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,895 Posts
Perform a compression check and see what the pressure is. If the cooling system was real low on coolant, then the gauge won't show the proper temp of the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Perform a compression check and see what the pressure is. If the cooling system was real low on coolant, then the gauge won't show the proper temp of the engine.
Looks like I'm doing a compression test tonight on the cylinders. Hopefully the results are good, but I'm not that optimistic about this. I kind of suspected the guage would read faulty if it didn't have proper coolant in it. Guess we'll know more tonight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,205 Posts
I've deep fried a 98 Vulcan with no damage to the head gasket. Lost coolant and the temp gauge didn't indicate a problem. The thick smoke of burning coolant & rubber did tell me something was massively wrong.

Check if you melted any of the injector wiring, sensors, etc.

Mine fired up fine after let it cool for 5 hours (and it still wasn't totally cold yet)

Vulcan's are pretty durable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've deep fried a 98 Vulcan with no damage to the head gasket. Lost coolant and the temp gauge didn't indicate a problem. The thick smoke of burning coolant & rubber did tell me something was massively wrong.

Check if you melted any of the injector wiring, sensors, etc.

Mine fired up fine after let it cool for 5 hours (and it still wasn't totally cold yet)

Vulcan's are pretty durable.
To get it started again, did you have to do anything other than wait? I've tried to start it a few times, long after it was cooled with no luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
After buying another compression tester since my first one wouldn't slip into the hole due to the thickness, I got the following results:

Cylinder 1: 30psi
Cylinder 2: 30psi
Cylinder 3: 50psi
Cylinder 4: 100psi
Cylinder 5: 50psi
Cylinder 6: 30psi

Now there may be a slight possibility that the compression tester wasn't seated in the spark plug hole 100%. I had to machine down slightly the adapter to get it to fit inside the spark plug well. This motor does have 180k on it as far as I know, (unsure if the motor is original to the body of the car) so it's possible that it's just that tired.

It seems to me that several years ago in my SHO days that you could jump a wire in the EEC test plug and the car would deliver trouble codes via a flashing check engine light. Is that possible on the gen 2 taurus? I'm not sure where else to go at this point.

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,349 Posts
Go to active topics @ top of this page and click on thread: replaced radiator now now start. Then go to post (link) #5 by xmangic and click on fordfuelinjection link. A gen.2 code pulling how-to with pics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I'm not really sure what's going on here. This morning before work I was anxious and attempted to pull the codes using the method in the above mentioned threads and the EEC seemed to pop out several codes but was short on time, so I wasn't able to do a complete breakdown of them.

This evening I attempted the same thing, and the only code that the EEC seemed to want to tell me was 33. I wasn't sure about this, so I went to the local Autozone and bought a 30 dollar code reader, which honestly isn't much more than a glorified jumper wire that you can set to beep at you as it flashes the light. To make sure I understand correctly, it would flash 3 times then pause, flash 3 times then pause, flash once and pause, then flash 3 times and pause, and finally flash three more times. That is a code 33 correct?

According to the book that comes along with the code reader, the code is 'EGR Valve (EVP) sensor or Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor indicates EGR valve is not opening. Or, EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor or Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor indicates EGR valve not seated (closed) properly.'

Ironically according to the Autozone website, there is no EGR Valve Position sensor on a 1994 Taurus with a 3.0 motor in it. Anyone have any ideas??
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top