Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well, the taurus is starting to on occasion lose coolant, thin it may be the head gasket on the rear bank. the engine has never been overheated. only seems to do it in city driving, i can leave it up on ramps idileing for a hour and it wont leak at all. dripss of the pssenger side corner onto the exhaust pipe, when it first did it i thought i had a electrical fire (white "smoke") it will also weep after being shut off. looks like its going to be about $130 in parts. im surprized that its doing it, i may wait until the leak gets worse just to be sure of it being a head gasket. ive never heard of a 3.0 doing this. the car only has 130,000 miles on it. obvisoly, i'll do both heads and put new valve seals on as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
809 Posts
Sounds like you might be right. You know as well as we do if it is a head gasket it would be better to fix it now than keep driving it till it warps or cracks the head. :dunno:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,066 Posts
QUOTE (racsan @ Jun 2 2010, 09:26 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808680
well, the Taurus is starting to on occasion lose coolant, think it may be the head gasket on the rear bank. the engine has never been overheated. only seems to do it in city driving, i can leave it up on ramps idling for a hour and it wont leak at all. drips of the passenger side corner onto the exhaust pipe, when it first did it i thought i had a electrical fire (white "smoke") it will also weep after being shut off. looks like its going to be about $130 in parts. im surprised that its doing it, i may wait until the leak gets worse just to be sure of it being a head gasket. ive never heard of a 3.0 doing this. the car only has 130,000 miles on it. obviously, i'll do both heads and put new valve seals on as well.[/b]
I had a leak in my 93 and it turned out to be a cracked plastic tank in the radiator. Before you get carried away, double
check everything. run it hot on the road, and bring it home and shut it off. Listen close for a hissing noise or such
and try to follow it with your ears. make sure you don't have a pin hole leak in a heater hose or such.
also, make sure its NOT the water pump. If you have never changed it, its probably past due.
It could also be leaking from the overflow tank.

I have heard some 3.0L broke head bolts which could cause a gasket problem, but i have never seen it.
The Gen3's where more prone to head gasket faults.

bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
QUOTE (soundu @ Jun 3 2010, 09:19 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808936
QUOTE (racsan @ Jun 2 2010, 09:26 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808680
well, the Taurus is starting to on occasion lose coolant, think it may be the head gasket on the rear bank. the engine has never been overheated. only seems to do it in city driving, i can leave it up on ramps idling for a hour and it wont leak at all. drips of the passenger side corner onto the exhaust pipe, when it first did it i thought i had a electrical fire (white "smoke") it will also weep after being shut off. looks like its going to be about $130 in parts. im surprised that its doing it, i may wait until the leak gets worse just to be sure of it being a head gasket. ive never heard of a 3.0 doing this. the car only has 130,000 miles on it. obviously, i'll do both heads and put new valve seals on as well.[/b]
I had a leak in my 93 and it turned out to be a cracked plastic tank in the radiator. Before you get carried away, double
check everything. run it hot on the road, and bring it home and shut it off. Listen close for a hissing noise or such
and try to follow it with your ears. make sure you don't have a pin hole leak in a heater hose or such.
also, make sure its NOT the water pump. If you have never changed it, its probably past due.
It could also be leaking from the overflow tank.

I have heard some 3.0L broke head bolts which could cause a gasket problem, but i have never seen it.
The Gen3's where more prone to head gasket faults.

bob
[/b][/quote]

I would make sure and check all hoses and connections before I decided it was head gaskets.
If you have steam in the exhaust you have a head or intake gasket leak. I just put head gaskets on my daughters car. A good machine shop i use charged 30.00 per head to pressure test and resurface. Use new head bolts. If the book says torque to yield that means the bolt is being stretched and should not be reused. New bolts are inexpensive compared to the amount of work you have to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
upon further checking, it looks like it might be the timing cover. im going that route first, ive found a couple posts here that showed pictures and my leak is in that same area. wish i didnt have to drop the pan. overall, i think id rather go this route than pull the heads. hopefully this is indeed the problem. the haynes book says you only need to drop the pan on 3.8 engines, but here and after looking underneath, it appears the haynes book is wrong. ive (temporarily) pulled the thermostat to keep from loosing anymore coolant. it drips down onto the exhaust pipe and the steam looked like smoke the first time it happened. i wonder if its possible to loosen all the pan bolts and slide the timeing cover in/out? im worried about getting the Y pipe off the manifold. i may have to saw the Y pipe and romove the manifold and install new studs. this car has been in ohio its entire life, manifold studs really rusty, in fact the converter has a hole in it and where the converter joins the inermeadite pipe before the resonator, that flange is rusted away, odd to have the pipe still good but the thicker flange gone. i did put a new radeator in it several years ago, new water pump also. if the trans ever goes i think i will be done with this car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
You don't need to drop oil pan

I replaced timing chain cover gasket few years ago on my 93 GL 3.0 (engine code U). Procedure described in Haynes manual is correct and there was no need to touch oil pan at all.
Not sure that it is possible to remove timing chain cover with water pump as one piece, as Haynes says - I decided to replace pump as well so I removed pump first, then timing chain cover.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
that is good news. mine is also a gl "U" code 3.0, i plan on removing the water pump to put on a new gasket there anyhow, it may be possible to pull the cover and pump as a assembly. but on the chance theres a bolt or 3 under the pump, i will just take the pump off.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top