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Discussion Starter #1
I just want to upgrde my exhaust and not get a check engine light...
posibly past the cat im assuming... or delete the cats??? any thoughts?
 

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I just want to upgrde my exhaust and not get a check engine light...
posibly past the cat im assuming... or delete the cats??? any thoughts?
If you're looking to gut your cat, probably not with the factory ECU. You'd need something like the F.A.S.T. (fuel air spark technology) system programmable ECU, which would require tuning. Both will cost you much more than what it's worth for a gutted cat. There are o2 delete kits that fool the computer into thinking the secondary oxygen sensor (past the cat) is good, I've seen them for mustangs, not sure if you could adapt it to the Taurus, but I remember it was expensive as hell; might as well just get the programmable ECU. Still too expensive just for a gutted cat.

I wouldn't just say screw it and gut your cat and suffer the check engine light. Whenever the light is on the ECU goes into limp mode, and performance will be significantly decreased. Doesn't matter what the issue is, the ECU doesn't like trouble codes.

If you're just looking for a little higher flow, get a high flow cat and muffler. Depending on your engine you probably won't notice much difference since this only improves high RPM power to get the exhaust out of the cylinder faster. A header would help, too. Only problem is the Taurus is set up for mid-range power. You'd need to tune the ECU for any real benefit. Higher flow may actually reduce low RPM performance. Backpressure is sometimes a good thing to a degree.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well i have an 07.
i just really want to know if there is ANYTHING i can do to this thing that will improve proformance/ fuel mileage.... thanks

preferably bolt on... im already thinking about a buld you own intake
 

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well i have an 07.
i just really want to know if there is ANYTHING i can do to this thing that will improve proformance/ fuel mileage.... thanks

preferably bolt on... im already thinking about a buld you own intake
Get a K&N air filter. DO NOT get a racing cone filter. Those filters need to be sprayed with oil to capture particles entering the intake, and most people don't know that, so those little dirt particles are getting into their engine and scuffing up the cylinder walls and ruining the rings. K&N makes cone filters out of the same material that does not need to be sprayed like the racing filters.

You could get a cold air intake, but you're running the risk of drawing water into the engine if you run over a puddle, causing an immediate hydrolock of the engine and bending the rods.

Matching the intake runners to the ports in the head will give you a little better intake flow. It can be done with a dremel tool. Watch this on youtube.

Exhaust headers that are made right create a sucking effect that actually increases the vacuum out of the cylinder to pull exhaust out at high RPM. Wrap the header with heat wrap to keep the heat inside and not in the engine compartment back into your intake.

Bolt on a catback exhaust system with high flow cat and muffler.

That's about all you can do with a stock intake/exhaust without getting into fuel trim and ignition tuning aside from a dry nitrous kit (single port nitrous without added fuel directly into the intake, cools the MAF sensor to fool it into injecting more fuel to match the nitrous volume). Could be illegal depending on your location. A low HP dry shot wouldn't require tuning because the ECU will compensate. You're risking your engine, though. Nitrous is really hard on the bearings.
 

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Get a K&N air filter. DO NOT get a racing cone filter. Those filters need to be sprayed with oil to capture particles entering the intake, and most people don't know that, so those little dirt particles are getting into their engine and scuffing up the cylinder walls and ruining the rings. K&N makes cone filters out of the same material that does not need to be sprayed like the racing filters.

You could get a cold air intake, but you're running the risk of drawing water into the engine if you run over a puddle, causing an immediate hydrolock of the engine and bending the rods.

Matching the intake runners to the ports in the head will give you a little better intake flow. It can be done with a dremel tool. Watch this on youtube.

Exhaust headers that are made right create a sucking effect that actually increases the vacuum out of the cylinder to pull exhaust out at high RPM. Wrap the header with heat wrap to keep the heat inside and not in the engine compartment back into your intake.

Bolt on a catback exhaust system with high flow cat and muffler.

That's about all you can do with a stock intake/exhaust without getting into fuel trim and ignition tuning aside from a dry nitrous kit (single port nitrous without added fuel directly into the intake, cools the MAF sensor to fool it into injecting more fuel to match the nitrous volume). Could be illegal depending on your location. A low HP dry shot wouldn't require tuning because the ECU will compensate. You're risking your engine, though. Nitrous is really hard on the bearings.
...right...

Anyway, there's plenty of ideas floating around for the vulcan motor. Pick up the SHOsource UDP, that's the best power/economy mod for the cost. I think that car may have a 3rd cat, which can be taken out without any CEL's (might not pass smog in your area, look into that). The front two can be kept in, or pick up a magnaflow high-flow y-pipe (also SHOsource).

Mufflers will help a little, and make it feel faster from the sound. CAI as well. There's a sticky at the top that shows how to do it. I ran a fender cone for a year and a half, through heavy rain and deep puddles. As long as the water level itself doesn't reach there, you don't get any splash in that area.

Moranav6racing.com has 1.8:1 roller rockers that are an easier option than a cam, and help free up a lot of friction loss, which helps in the higher rpm. Search around. This question has been answered many times.
 

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An '07 Taurus has a Vulcan engine. There is really little you can do that will make much difference shy of oversize valve, a cam, or maybe a turbocharger or supercharger. The Vulcan has a hard time breathing, its an antiquated and actually obsolete design that originated in the mid-eighties. It is overall a durable and cheap design, but performance is not its strong suit. Gutting the cats would probably make it less powerful, since the factory cam is designed to factor in the presence of cats, most people who gut cats have a decrease in economy and torque. A tuner can help offset, but the cam is designed to be used with emissions components to maximize performance.

If you really want to see what you can do, either be prepared to spend real money, (not gutting cats), or go get a faster car. There are a few cheap mods you can do with the intake, and you can go with freer flowing mufflers, but even those are more for sound, and don't translate to much improved performance on their own. A straight through type muffler and slightly increased pipe size will help give a little extra power, 2.25" is a good size, larger than that can sometime cause a decrease in torque and throttle response due to a an increase in the total mass of air in the exhaust system, it takes more energy to move a larger mass.

SHOsource sells a few performance enhancing parts for Vucans. At the end of the day though, the Vulcan is not a performance engine by nature, it has only two valves per cylinder, and it does not flow well unless the heads are smoothed out and enlarged slightly through a process known as porting. You might be able to get larger valves, and performance cams increase the lift and duration which increases flow, and as a result, performance. Major mods like this often require tuning changes too, to change the timing and fuel mixture to match the changes to the engine.

If you convert to turbocharged (or supercharged), the boost helps overcome the restrictive heads (I would still port it, but the stock cam is usually fine.), but for best results you either have to limit boost, or take steps to lower compression. This approach is one of the best bangs for the buck, but is still expensive.

Not to discourage you, I always thinks its cool when someone modifies a Taurus, especially as its not a popular modders car. But I also tend to look at things realistically, and the truth is, the Taurus is not a modders car for a reason, squeezing performance out of a small pushrod V6 is difficult, especially when performance parts support is not that great.

The Magnaflow y-pipe does nothing for performance, in fact it is inferior to the OEM one from a performance standpoint.
 

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Turbo would be a big improvement, but you would need a bigger exhaust, larger injectors, programmable ECU, wideband o2 (if you want dependability and tunability), probably an intercooler, definitely need to get it dyno tuned, and that's for low boost about 5 to 8 psi. Might net you 50 extra horsepower. You can get that with a dry nitrous kit without many other modifcations and get it done cheaper, but then you're looking at getting the bottle filled a lot.

Anything above about 8psi boost and you're looking at internal engine modifications. Also, turbo is more straightforward with a MAP sensor setup. MAF responds to airflow to cool the wire inside it. Turbo compresses air which makes it hotter. MAP responds to pressure, which is inherently how the turbo works.

So all-in-all, you're looking at 250hp at the flywheel with a lot of money invested. There are some 4 cylinder engines that make close to that without any work done at all (B18C5 honda engine comes to mind).

The guy above is pretty much right. If you want power you're going to either need to do a ton of work, spend a fortune, or get a different car.
 
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