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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Pinch Bolt, early fix.

Pic is a rear pinch bolt, 8 years in a very mild rust area.

I took these out and replaced them on a preventive measure as I have experienced rear strut leaking around 100K on my 4 previous sedans. Removal of the pinch bolt was one of those bad memories, but I never broke one, but it nearly broke me mentally a couple of times.

The bind is in the clearance hole, not the threads. You can see the metal rust loss in the shank. Rust is larger than the base metal. So it binds the shank in the clearance hole. Then you have to force the threads through this rustpack.

For me, I used a Dremel and 3/8" sanding drum and sanded the clearance hole to remove the crusty rust. Then used a Q-Tip and greased the hole with wheel bearing grease. Same to the new bolt shank. The new bolt came with thread locker on it. I left the threads alone except to blow the dust out.

To get the old ones out I used a impact wrench and a 6 point short socket so as to have room for my long inpact gun. I ran it back and forth, repeat, etc until I wore the rust pack out and got the old bolt out. So at 8 years I was at the edge of large effort to remove the bolts later.

Hope this helps others.

-chart- the (old coot)
 

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I'm astounded that auto makers don't use an anti seize grease on pinch bolts at the factory! Or, better still, eliminate them by design ingenuity! I wonder if the average service technician has horrible flashback nightmares about pinchbolts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cost Cost etc

I'm astounded that auto makers don't use an anti seize grease on pinch bolts at the factory! Or, better still, eliminate them by design ingenuity! I wonder if the average service technician has horrible flashback nightmares about pinchbolts?
They design for cost of assembly, and getting them out of warrenty.

I would think a bolt and nut would be cheaper than tapping that spindle. But, then they would have to have a more complex assembly. Later models use the bolt and nut on the front, but I think that is because of the aluminum spindle housing.

Those spring clamps on hoses are an example of assembly labor reduction. Pain in the [email protected]#$ for the mechanic. They buy the hoses with the clamps alredy in place. Just pop the clip and move on. As compared to twisting that worm drive clamp, and missing the torque.

-chart-
 

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toronut;1638177 I wonder if the average service technician has horrible flashback nightmares about pinchbolts?[/QUOTE said:
Yes. I hate drilling broken bolts out. I've had to drill one of those, once. Ever since...heat and lots of it.
 
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