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Penelope the SE

5K views 49 replies 6 participants last post by  ice445 
#1 · (Edited)
Figured I'd start a build log for anyone who's mildly interested in what I've been messing with for the past two months. I picked up this 1998 Taurus SE locally, but it was originally purchased new in Blackfoot, Idaho by an older couple who eventually moved to Salt Lake to be closer to their family. Apparently when they passed, it ended up in the possession of a relative who lived in the same neighborhood, but it had some issues so it didn't get driven much. They then sold it to a friend of mine, who also didn't really drive it due to financial reasons. So this car has been sitting for 3-4 years by the time I got it, if not longer. So of course, it was in rough shape mechanically. I've had to change literally every gasket on this engine, including head gaskets which were corroded through from sitting with what looked like dex cool in the system. Some maintenance was performed before I got it, however. The transmission had clean, fresh fluid, the water pump had been changed, and someone did the brakes, tires, and CV axles before it was parked. It's currently running very nicely, with only a few things left on the list to address. I changed the front motor mount and have to do the other two, as well as replace both radiator hoses (the lower has a crack in the plastic T that leaks a little bit of coolant once it gets hot). I also put new tires on it, since the ones on it had been on there for 7 years and were badly dry rotted. Car is relatively rust free (surface rust only except for the rear wheel well), and has ticked over 134,000 miles. Third gens are rad, so I'm glad I got to own one before they all disappear. This one is a relatively standard SE, performance white with 15 inch alloy wheels, grey interior with cloth. Vulcan with AX4S. It has the rare rear disc brake option though, which is pretty nice to have.
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#2 ·
I may be alone here but in my opinion and prior experience with a couple of Ford Ranger pickups the 3.0 Vulcan is perhaps one of my favorite motors from Ford. It may not have ever been the most powerful thing in the world but with proper maintenance it will run forever! The OHV design makes it fairly simple to work on, at least compared to the DOHC, VVT, direct injection design of the newer 3.5 that while definitely more powerful; are expensive to maintain.
 
#3 ·
Ive owned both the Vulcan and Duratec and im inclined to agree, but this was definitely the most needy Vulcan I've had. I don't expect to have to touch it again though. The Duratec seems to have fewer weak points, but if something does break, the lack of room really sucks. My favorite thing about the Vulcan is the easy access to everything, especially on a third gen.

I will say that for a neglected motor, the wear in the bores was practically non existent even at 133k. This thing could easily do 300k if the trans allows it.
 
#5 ·
I replaced both upstream with new Denso units, and unfortunately the problem remains. It's adding less fuel when I open the throttle than before, but just barely. Trims still jump to 20% as soon as I open the throttle. Still rich on warm idle as well, around -10%. I also replaced the alternator and added an extra ground for the PCM/cleaned existing grounds. Also worth mentioning that both ECT and IAT sensors are working properly. At this point I'm going to throw a MAF at it and see if the issue stops. If it's not that, the only other thing I can think of is that the cam timing is off somehow, either from a bad synchronizer or sensor. Seems unlikely given I have absolutely no drive-ability issues at all.
 
#7 ·
I think I had a revelation on my issue. The evap purge valve may be stuck partially open. The solenoid is likely working given the lack of codes, but it would explain why the idle is overly rich and the car is overly lean on throttle. I'm going to test it tomorrow by just isolating it from the intake. Fingers crossed. I was hesitant to throw a MAF since flow rates looked believable, so I did some thinking instead.
 
#8 ·
Since there is no feedback on the valve position it is possible but it would have to close while idling or when it is suppose to be close. Maybe if there is a flow restrictor in the canister or tubing to limit the airflow and it is too large of a hose is off in the gas tank area. The computer checks for tank tightness but nor sure if it checks purge flow.
 
#13 ·
I have a JY spare air plenum with the MAF in it. I have switched it with one of my 4 DOHC and it made no difference so I concluded my JY unit is a good one.
I have missed clamping the accordion more than once, and left the fresh air hose off the accordion and one time made a 1300 mile trip with the EGR vacuum hose off. CEL on all the way. Had dealer left the ground cable to the starter hanging down but it still started but with very slow. Dealer replaced brakes on my Buick, had a stuck guide pin and one front running hot. Could make a list of others so my few aren't bad.
-chart-
 
#14 ·
We'll see on the fuel economy, but the car definitely drives better. It has more power on throttle. It even runs less rich at idle now, only about -5% instead of double that before. The main thing is the car will stop popping lean codes on both banks now. But thank you!
I have a JY spare air plenum with the MAF in it. I have switched it with one of my 4 DOHC and it made no difference so I concluded my JY unit is a good one.
I have missed clamping the accordion more than once, and left the fresh air hose off the accordion and one time made a 1300 mile trip with the EGR vacuum hose off. CEL on all the way. Had dealer left the ground cable to the starter hanging down but it still started but with very slow. Dealer replaced brakes on my Buick, had a stuck guide pin and one front running hot. Could make a list of others so my few aren't bad.
-chart-
I guess I just got unlucky. I've never seen one of these units fail before, especially not in this way. Goof ups inevitably happen though haha
 
#18 ·
Fresh haul from Rock auto. Hoses weren't in bad shape given the age, but the plastic T portion of the lower has a crack in it, so I decided to swap both to stop the occasional coolant leak when the car is cooling off. Camshaft synchro squeaks when it's cold, then cleans up. Figured I'd get that done too. Unit is the Standard Motor Products CSA5. Normally I'd grab the Motorcraft part only, but it's $112. I haven't heard any horror stories about this particular one, so we'll see if it's OK. If I get 50,000 miles out of it, I'd be happy. It's nice that it comes with a sensor and the alignment tool as well. I think it's the newer style so I'll have to reuse mine, but that's OK. For $45 it seems like a pretty decent deal overall. Made in Taiwan instead of China, so we'll see. I'm going to swap by the book to make sure the timing is dead on, with the car's age I have no idea if someone put a unit in there before and messed it up.
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#21 ·
Installed Mach and fixed the footwell lighting. Since this is a 5/98 build car, this is one of the very last built to get the footwell lights. Durasel always sells good stuff, mach sounds way better as always lol. One of the original tweeters was blown too so its a much more enjoyable experience now.
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#23 ·
Replaced this today. Engine is much quieter, didn't realize what an awful screeching racket this was making. It had progressed past the birds chirping. It felt very loose and there was a substantial amount of up and down play on the gear. Got the flickering oil light of death at idle the other day after a highway drive, wondering if this had something to do with that. Gonna do an oil change as well (and get rid of the fram filter lmao) and see if it comes back. If it does, no big deal really. I'll just switch to a 5W40 and keep trucking, lol.
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#26 ·
Well, the news isnt good. Lol. The picture speaks for itself. Fresh 5w30 oil and filter fixed the light, which is good. But the engine is on borrowed time. There's a couple possibilities here as to what happened. One is fuel dilution from when the car was running too rich (the oil was very thin and watery but not emulsified, and more came out than 5 quarts) Another is that I didn't do a good enough job keeping the dust and debris of the decking/sanding process of my head job out of the engine. I did struggle somewhat with that because the die grinder was good at making my towels and such fly away, lol. Definitely need a better strategy for that next time. Third possibility is this is from the bores that had pitting/corrosion from sitting with coolant in them. Fourth is that the Fram filter didn't do a very good job filtering. Probably a combination of all of these, honestly.

I'm gonna change the oil again in 1000 miles and see if there's an improvement. Otherwise I'll just keep driving until rodney says hello, lol. Overall I'm not too upset, this car has taught me a lot, through the good and the bad. Vulcan engines are also a dime a dozen :)

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#28 ·
I lose a small amount of coolant every week, but I can smell it coming off the front of the car. Until I find that leak, I can't conclusively say that I dont have another head issue. The lower plastic t hose has a small crack and sometimes I've caught it leaving a small puddle in that area. Could be the rad as well, I lack a pressure tester to confirm. With that said, I have none of the other symptoms that I did pre repair. Possible that I missed a small crack somewhere, but I don't remember seeing any substantial water in the oil after cracking the drain plug except when I did the timing cover. I never ran the engine on that oil though.

That oil in the picture was after 1500mi. I definitely should have changed it earlier, now that I think about it.
 
#30 ·
Dang, that's bad lol. Impressive though. I think the engine is still okay, it definitely shaved some life off, but I'm going to change the oil again in 500 miles and see if the glitter is just as bad. If it's gone, it should be fine. Otherwise there's obviously a countdown to rod knock going on. I didn't see any big chunks, and the only glitter was floating on the surface like that. I'll cut open the oil filter to see if it caught any or if it was stuck in bypass mode for some reason, just for curiosity sake.

The nice thing is a fresh fill of 5W30 synth blend and a Motorcraft FL-400S fixed the flickering oil light at hot idle completely. I drove the car for a solid 45 minutes straight yesterday including on the highway and it didn't show up once. Still in business, for now :)
 
#32 ·
Two weeks of snow and perilous winter weather so far. This is probably the best car I've ever driven in snow. Not having traction control other than my foot is quite nice. Plus these skinny 15 inch wheels (with new appropriate tires) cut through the snow on the road like butter. It's amazing. You have to truly go out of your way or mat the throttle to get any spin at all.
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#33 ·
Yes but would is start in Zero in Dallas?. Deep South in deep do do. I had '85 LTD start at -24F and drove 70 miles of 2 lane and temp gage never moved. At least it started.
15 and sunny here in the NORTH country of NY. 2.7" white stuff predicted tomorrow. Just enough to whiten the yard.
 
#36 ·
Found the coolant leak finally. The metal barb/fitting for the lower reservoir hose to the T is rotted and leaks. Easiest way to fix this? I can't find that actual hose anywhere to replace it. Is it a 1inch diameter? I could just cut out the fitting and replace with a plastic one I suppose.
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#37 ·
I replaced the same pipe five years ago and they were available on RockAuto. I was worried that it would rust away, someone posted years ago they had a leak there. I may have the original pipe but it would take too long to send it out to you. Thinking the new pipe had a plastic nipple. I believe the nipple is used because the hoses are two different sizes.
 
#40 ·
Nothing much to report, still humming along. Over 3000 miles since the engine overhaul and she's still running with no issues. Now that the weather is getting warmer I'll be driving the Mustang more. I've decided to slowly recondition this vehicle when time allows over the summer. Since the prices of used vehicles have shot way up from all this free money handed out, I'll just keep it around. Should have quite a few miles left in it. I've also found I just enjoy these third gens a lot, and they're getting harder to find in decent shape. I plan on swapping in a newer Vulcan longblock (because the glitter situation doesn't inspire long term confidence) and doing a suspension overhaul at the minimum. We'll see what else gets done. Some other odds and ends are needed, like the driver's seat since the cushion has gone a bit flat. And I definitely have to do something about the head unit so I can use bluetooth without a transmitter. Modern phones don't even have headphone jacks for aux input anymore.
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#41 ·
Still alive and running fine. I want to say I'm surprised, but at the same time the car was in good shape and really isn't that high of miles so it's not super surprising. We'll see how things go as I have time to change some of the worn out things I've been ignoring.
 
#42 ·
Well, a critical issue has showed up unfortunately. The speed sensor goes haywire once the trans gets nice and warmed up. Speedo will drop out, then come back, etc while the trans shifts randomly trying to figure it out. Anything more than a 20 mile trip or so and it happens, especially now that it's warm out. And I have tried three VSS sensors now with no improvement (two OE). So either it has an electrical issue with the wires, OR the gear inside the trans is too worn to make good contact once the fluid thins out. I already inspected the plug and harness and saw no obvious issues, and I cleaned the prongs with contact cleaner. Given it worked for longer in the winter, im thinking the gear is my issue.

The problem is that the parts are all but unobtainable at this point, I doubt any of the junkyard cars with 150k+ will be much better. And the later cars moved to a hall sensor because its much more reliable. Essentially this may be the end for this one.
 
#44 ·
Well, a critical issue has showed up unfortunately. The speed sensor goes haywire once the trans gets nice and warmed up. Speedo will drop out, then come back, etc while the trans shifts randomly trying to figure it out. Anything more than a 20 mile trip or so and it happens, especially now that it's warm out. And I have tried three VSS sensors now with no improvement (two OE). So either it has an electrical issue with the wires, OR the gear inside the trans is too worn to make good contact once the fluid thins out. I already inspected the plug and harness and saw no obvious issues, and I cleaned the prongs with contact cleaner. Given it worked for longer in the winter, im thinking the gear is my issue.

The problem is that the parts are all but unobtainable at this point, I doubt any of the junkyard cars with 150k+ will be much better. And the later cars moved to a hall sensor because its much more reliable. Essentially this may be the end for this one.
Maybe a trans repair shop could order or have one.
 
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