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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks, was getting a little oil on the air filter of a hi-milege 2000 DOHC, indicating excessive crankcase pressure. A little oil was also pooling in the rubber air bellows from the valve cover vent tubes. Figured on a plugged PCV valve, no biggie. Oops, assume makes an ass out of you and ...

On the 99 DOHC the valve is located in a thick hose coming out the bottom of the throttle body. Not too difficult to replace if you move a few things. Pull apart the 2 hoses and it's plug and play.

But Ford's better idea for the 2000's is to attach the valve on the end of the oil separator. And the separator is mounted on the crankcase in the vee of the motor, between the cylinders. Oh joy. Follow the thick hose coming out the bottom of the throttle body down to a metal pipe, and the pipe connects via a rubber sleeve to the end of the PCV valve. You'll find it under that thick wiring bundle.

I couldn't/wouldn't twist it free from the separator by going straight at it -- it's made of plastic and I didn't want to bust it up before seeing what I was getting into. I'd probably do that now.

But I took the extra time to remove the throttle body and EGR valve from the upper intake manifold (UIM)and then removing the 8 studs holding the plastic manifold. By moving the manifold up and away a little I could come at the almost-horizontal valve from top and unscrew it 90 degrees with a pliers. Plug the new one it and seat it with a twist.

If your spark plugs have any sort of milege on 'em, then having the manifold movable at this time makes getting to the rears a lot easier too.

And BTW, that old plastic puppy was gummed up solid. $20.00 for a new valve and air filter and it runs like a sewing machine. Anybody have any luck with those desludging oil treatments like Rislone or Seafoam?
 

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I personally tried Seafoam once, but didn't notice any difference. I've heard great things about AutoRx, but never personally tried it.

One thing I do is run Gunk Oil Flush before every oil change. It helps to slowly remove sludge buildup.
 

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My 2000 has over 232K on it and I have lean codes right now.

I am pulling the Upper and lower intakes and cleaning them as well as replacinig the tubing and PCV this weekend.

I got the PCV from O'Reillys and it is a Motorcraft part.

I have heard people say that some auto parts stores have the wrong PCV valve listed.
Can you take pics of it?
If not I will take pics tonight and post it to make sure I have the right one.

Thanks

Mike
B)

CLIFFS

TAKE A PICTURE OF YOUR OLD PCV VALVE
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's true, Mike, there's widespread confusion about the valve.
Terry Morris Ford here in the Albany NY area wanted $58 for the oil separator, says the valve wasn't available alone.
It wasn't on Napa's computer catalog, I had to insist they check the paper catalog.
They still gave me the wrong one, a metal valve for the 99 24v.
It took an ex-tech in a small town auto parts store to give me the skinny on what where and how.
It's grey plastic with large screw threads to allow the 90 deg. twist into the separator.
Sorry I don't have a pic, it's on the car and you can't see it in a pic!
 

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Did you throw the old one away?

Mike
:dunno:
 

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Took a crappy picture on auto and the flash is jacked up but

Here is a picture of the PCV valve they gave me




Is this the correct one for my 2000 Duratec?

Thanks

Mike
:dunno:
 

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Good cause I sure as hell didn't want to have to clean the old one and put it back in after 232K

Mike
B)
 

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.......

I couldn't/wouldn't twist it free from the separator by going straight at it -- it's made of plastic and I didn't want to bust it up before seeing what I was getting into. I'd probably do that now.

But I took the extra time to remove the throttle body and EGR valve from the upper intake manifold (UIM)and then removing the 8 studs holding the plastic manifold. By moving the manifold up and away a little I could come at the almost-horizontal valve from top and unscrew it 90 degrees with a pliers. Plug the new one it and seat it with a twist.
....
[/b]
Hi Dave, thanks for the info.

Did you remove the coolant hose at the block also ??. Does moving the manifold make the job a lot quicker and easier ? or can it be done without moving it. My plugs are already done, I and would like to avoid moving the manifold and having to possibly replace the gasket etc., unless it really makes the job a lot easier.
 

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I did mine tonight.

I pulled the intakes because I wanted to put new gaskets and o rings on the fuel injectors.

The hardest part was getting hold of the PCV valve so you could twist it.

I had to pull the wiring harness up to get it. Didn't pull the radiator hose though

Mike
B)
 

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I did mine tonight.

I pulled the intakes because I wanted to put new gaskets and o rings on the fuel injectors.

The hardest part was getting hold of the PCV valve so you could twist it.

I had to pull the wiring harness up to get it. Didn't pull the radiator hose though

Mike
B) [/b]
Mike,

Let me know if this solves your problem. :thumb:
 

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<div class='quotemain'> I did mine tonight.

I pulled the intakes because I wanted to put new gaskets and o rings on the fuel injectors.

The hardest part was getting hold of the PCV valve so you could twist it.

I had to pull the wiring harness up to get it. Didn't pull the radiator hose though

Mike
B) [/b]
Mike,

Let me know if this solves your problem. :thumb:
[/b][/quote]


YEs it did.

I got a thread floating around somewhere

EDIT: Found it
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry558220
Mike
B)
 

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Hi Folks, was getting a little oil on the air filter of a hi-milege 2000 DOHC, indicating excessive crankcase pressure. A little oil was also pooling in the rubber air bellows from the valve cover vent tubes. Figured on a plugged PCV valve, no biggie. Oops, assume makes an ass out of you and ...

On the 99 DOHC the valve is located in a thick hose coming out the bottom of the throttle body. Not too difficult to replace if you move a few things. Pull apart the 2 hoses and it's plug and play.

But Ford's better idea for the 2000's is to attach the valve on the end of the oil separator. And the separator is mounted on the crankcase in the vee of the motor, between the cylinders. Oh joy. Follow the thick hose coming out the bottom of the throttle body down to a metal pipe, and the pipe connects via a rubber sleeve to the end of the PCV valve. You'll find it under that thick wiring bundle.

I couldn't/wouldn't twist it free from the separator by going straight at it -- it's made of plastic and I didn't want to bust it up before seeing what I was getting into. I'd probably do that now.

But I took the extra time to remove the throttle body and EGR valve from the upper intake manifold (UIM)and then removing the 8 studs holding the plastic manifold. By moving the manifold up and away a little I could come at the almost-horizontal valve from top and unscrew it 90 degrees with a pliers. Plug the new one it and seat it with a twist.

If your spark plugs have any sort of milege on 'em, then having the manifold movable at this time makes getting to the rears a lot easier too.

And BTW, that old plastic puppy was gummed up solid. $20.00 for a new valve and air filter and it runs like a sewing machine. Anybody have any luck with those desludging oil treatments like Rislone or Seafoam?
I have an '02 DOHC Taurus. I had a hard time getting the PCV valve out until I used the new PCV valve to match it up with a 7/8" deep well socket. It's the perfect size. You need to use an extension with the socket to get the old one out and turn it left about 1/4 of a turn, then pull it out.
 
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