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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Dad's 2001 Taurus stumbled and died on him 2 weeks ago today on the freeway. He was able to start it shortly after but it died again a few hundred feet down the road. Power was getting to all accessories and lights but nothing to the starter, not even a click. Had a mechanic look at it where we pushed it to and there was no power to the PCM so no codes or anything. He was able to apply power to the starter and it is apparently working. He called a dead PCM and said they don't work on that. My Dad purchased a new PCM from Autozone that was supposedly programmed to our model etc. but after installing there was no change. Now when we turn the key to start position everything again comes on like normal but no sound at all. Do we need to have the PATS reflashed as well to make this PCM work with the car? Is a dealer the only ones who can handle this? I do hear a faint thump from the rear that I assume would be the fuel pump but that every other fuel pump I have heard makes more noise than that. The theft light also flashes fast and continuously as well which led to the PATS question. I am not sure where to turn next and my Dad is on a fixed income so he can't afford a huge repair bill now at all. I am in the DFW area so if anyone knows of a Ford electronic ace in the area who may be able to give us sound advice? :(
 

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If you're sure the battery is good (load test it), I would focus on the PATS. Did you check all the fuses? If you tried both sets of keys (by themselves in the ignition, no rings attached) and the starter won't engage, I think it's time to bend over and bring it into a dealer. I think it needs professional attention at this point. I would bring in both sets of keys/remotes and the original PCM as well (they might need it since it was matched to the PATS module).

BTW I do not reccomend doing a PCM swap on your own unless you have programming equipment. Modern systems are very picky and have to be programed to work with one another (which is why your mechanic didn't want to touch it). You might get lucky every once and a while if you do swaps, but this dealers' domain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My Dad is going to try removing and thoroughly cleaning the contacts on grounding strap from the PCM to the block as a "just in case" scenario. We'll see how that turns out but I am not hopeful.
 

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PATS is a real headache. However, sometimes getting a new key cut is all that it takes. That's the least expensive thing to throw at it before taking it to the dealer.

Then again, if he already put in the new PCM, I'm pretty sure it does have to be programmed by the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, my Dad is hesitant to take it to the dealer believing, maybe rightly, that they will insist on fixing everything or else nothing because of their "liability". The car has had a CEL on for a while due to EGR/DPFE but was drivable and he was waiting to sort that out at a later date. Can't afford to do all of this at once. Opinions? Thanks again for all the help so far.
 

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You cannot just replace the PCM without programming the PATS system and this is done by the dealer or a good locksmith that has the equipment, I'm sure the old PCM is just fine and the PATS system just lost sync. If you have AAA call a locksmith and have him program a new key or your existing one to the PCM that should fix the issue.

My wife called me one day and said that the car would crank, start and then die, what she didn't tell me is that the "Theft" light was on solid when she cranked the car over. I told her to remove the key from the ignition, reinsert it turn it to the "ON" position and wait for 4-5 seconds and then crank it - The car started and has never had a problem since, PATS is a touchy system as the key gets older it can cause read errors.

Troy.
 

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You cannot just replace the PCM without programming the PATS system and this is done by the dealer or a good locksmith that has the equipment, I'm sure the old PCM is just fine and the PATS system just lost sync. If you have AAA call a locksmith and have him program a new key or your existing one to the PCM that should fix the issue.

My wife called me one day and said that the car would crank, start and then die, what she didn't tell me is that the "Theft" light was on solid when she cranked the car over. I told her to remove the key from the ignition, reinsert it turn it to the "ON" position and wait for 4-5 seconds and then crank it - The car started and has never had a problem since, PATS is a touchy system as the key gets older it can cause read errors.

Troy.
And one more. They warn you about what else is on your key ring.

Page 69 of my '03 Sable owners guide. As second key to a different car, metal objects, and on and on. TILT!!

But maybe I am now reading my manual. Since I only had one key to this car and one remote. Key word "had".

-chart-
 

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I only had one key to this car and one remote.

-chart-

You too huh? LOL, Keys are pricey cheapest I found was $60.00 from AAA for 1 key.
 

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You too huh? LOL, Keys are pricey cheapest I found was $60.00 from AAA for 1 key.
I got this key, Ford Garage charged about $49 to make it match and cut the key. Of course they said no one had brought in their own blank. :p
But then that was "Bubba" about 2 weeks behind on shaving, and cleaning his shirt. (and that chaw of tobacco in the corner of his jaw).



2003 MERCURY SABLE key - Keyless remote for MERCURY SABLE

Also got a fob from them and it worked fine.

Just my experience.

-chart-
 

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Nice! I just don't trust non-ford keys (Unless that is in fact a Ford produced key) and if you look at the PATS section in the owners manual they specifically warn you about "Aftermarket Keys" but I think that's more about warranty coverage which expired some time ago :D
 

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Nice! I just don't trust non-ford keys (Unless that is in fact a Ford produced key) and if you look at the PATS section in the owners manual they specifically warn you about "Aftermarket Keys" but I think that's more about warranty coverage which expired some time ago :D
The key shown is exact in every detail including the letter "S" on it.

The garage parts dept said it was exact match. In many cases, outside supplier of parts also sell to aftermarket. "Bubba" had to go ask them.

And by the way, I would only go to that Ford garage as a last resort. The counter person that meets the public, makes or breaks a business. I would give them a D-.


Just my experience.

-chart-
 
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