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I didn’t need to solder. I just depinned and repinned. Popping the pins into the new connectors was a clean install and I know it’ll be to factory spec and secure. This was from Florida so the heat baked it I guess. Just depressing the connector on the DPFE broke it off. Power steering pressure switch just crumbled. And the oxygen sensor ones just did not want to cooperate. I’m gentle too!!!
Oh I see, the pins in the picture are from where you cut them off the donor car. Confused me for a sec lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Engine is completely back together minus water pump belt as I’ll need to crank the motor to get the stretch belt on. Replaced the aftermarket coils with OEM. New plugs installed. Fluids are in though power steering and coolant need to be burped once I run the engine. That’s coming soon! Motorcraft gold coolant, Motorcraft Mercon V, and the Walmart special for oil since I change it so frequently.
Loose heat shield underneath (got snagged by road debris…not corrosion related) has been fixed. New lift supports installed to hold the hood up. New driver side strut… passenger coming but it was not installed properly at the factory as the bolts don’t line up so I’ll need to get a spring compressor to change mount orientation. (I’ll need that for the rear as well as I’m putting in cargo coils on new motorcraft struts there). New motorcraft inner and outer tie rods installed. SHO front sway bar is in. Knuckles are disassembled and waiting for new motorcraft ball joints… the loaner tool I got won’t work (from O’Reilly) so I’ll have to get the one from Advance Auto that has more cups.

Got a new bumper to have painted to replace the damaged one on this car. Got some of the donor pieces for rear brake conversion from a 1996 GL at the yard that had fewer than 1000… yes you read that right. 1000. This car was absolutely brand new. Was used at the local community college as a tech training car. Someone beat me and took some stuff I needed so hunt continues.

Things are coming together. Can’t wait to have it on the road.

Who puts $2000 into a 17 year old car? slowly puts hand up

Side note… the 1999 Mountaineer (my winter beater) is being sold as I bought its replacement yesterday. I am now the owner of another 3.0L car that needs this job (yay?). 2008 Ford Escape Limited V6 4x4. Not perfect but a far better car than the mountaineer in many ways. Plus fuel mileage on the mountaineer was absolutely killing me.

it won’t be getting as much done as the Taurus, because it’ll end up rotting out as these all do. But it’ll serve me well a couple years. The Taurus will never be leaving. I intend to keep that for the long haul hence all the work… more updates to come.
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Dang, and I thought I was giving my tropic survivor the golden treatment, haha. Where do you even find Motorcraft Gold these days? Also that supertech synthetic is pretty good stuff actually.

Nice Escape. Shame about the Mountaineer since they're so rare these days, but I suppose all good things must end eventually.
 

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This is the adapter I bought when I did a few ball joints on my Taurus. Worked great and is specific to those ball joints. Hopefully your MC ball joints come with the boot protectors which makes the installation less risky. Nice to work on a Taurus that isn't so rusty.
 

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This is the adapter I bought when I did a few ball joints on my Taurus. Worked great and is specific to those ball joints. Hopefully your MC ball joints come with the boot protectors which makes the installation less risky. Nice to work on a Taurus that isn't so rusty.
Last time came with MC BJ. However MC noted for loose out of the box.
Else just use duct tape.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The mountaineer is going to an enthusiast so that’s the good thing. 5.0L is a gas hog and it’s shoehorned in there. You can still buy motorcraft gold on Amazon but this is what I had left over from years ago. I’ll pick up another. I still have some specialty green to use up on the Fusion. Maybe I’ll transition to the specialty yellow.

yep that’s the kit I wish O’Reilly had but in my market they only have a Honda specific one. They must think most of these cars have died and nobody’s doing ball joints. They’re not wrong… I am the only one up here working on an old Taurus. Most are gone but they are still out there. And yes… it’s great not having any rust. It won’t rust because no salt exposure. It gets preferential treatment like the Fusion. Cmax and Escape get winter duty.

My motorcraft joints came with the boot protector on both. Much better than the moogs I put on the old sable.
 
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I have that same kit that Automender posted, it's pretty good quality. I have some of those MC Canada made ball joints with the boot protectors to go on my car when I rebuild the front end. They're shockingly expensive now, I picked up a set a few years ago for like $50 for two, now even on Rockauto they're $70ish a pop. Crazy
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I was able to find them on eBay and negotiated with the seller to get them for $28 a piece as opposed to $70 from rockauto. It’s amazing how expensive they are now… not sure why exactly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Got back to working on the Taurus again after a couple weeks away as I was busy helping my grandparents acquire their new vehicle. For those curious it was a 2010 Mercury Mariner Premier 2.5L. It needed a bit of work to get to my standards.
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Back to the Taurus. Got everything buttoned up on the motor… it runs! It was not happy for a few minutes but it ended up blowing all the gunk out. Fluids bled as best I can in the garage. Best of all… no leaks! A duratec that doesn’t leak is not a myth after all!

Spent some free time getting suspension work done. Front is about done. I used motorcraft ball joints and thanks to Nick (Bull Geek), I used his suggestion to use a second boot for protection and rigidity.
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Rear is torn apart and getting the rear disc conversion. Fluid is gross so good timing as it’ll get a flush.
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Replaced wiper cowling with a nicer one from a car with 31k and while I was in there, replaced the cabin air filter. Looks like it never has been done. SHO wiper arm installed. Doing what I can little by little as I have time.
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It’s so nice working on a Florida vehicle with virtually no rust except from salty air. Pinch bolts came out as easily as a hot knife slices butter. As a NYer, I’m not used to this. The underside is clean! It’ll stay that way of course.

As always, more to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Nothing too crazy tonight. Rear spindles, brake cables, SHO sway bar installed. Waiting to put together the rear struts and re-orient the wrong one up front so I can finally button up all the suspension.
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Got everything all put together and the car is on the ground off the lift. Brake fluid flushed. New key programmed. Everything all good… or so I thought.

I ran into a couple struggles. Side note: when I had my struts put together in SC for the sable as they are cargo coils and the parts store compressor doesn’t cut it, the shop didn’t have the mount facing the right way. They had nothing to go off of so it was no big deal. Not really their fault. This time I knew it was a concern so I gave the shop in NY the old struts to use as reference and they still didn’t make them right. So after a bit of delay there and after finally going to my buddy’s house to use his tire machine and balancer, the car was on the ground. Brand new continental tires on my SES Sport wheels.

So next I started the vehicle up and I’ve been fighting an erratic idle and a slight miss. Was watching misfires and hoping for codes. Got nothing at all, but the car was clearly surging. Idle was dipping low and the motor clearly wasn’t happy. After a couple days of messing with it, I finally got a P0353 for the Ignition Coil 3 circuit. So… I swapped the coil out. Still had the same Issue. I tested the constant power and it was good. I tested the switched ground from the PCM and it was also good. So I put one of the aftermarket coils in that the car came with (I wanted motorcraft) and that smoothed it right out. So I guess I had bad luck of two junk OEM coils that gave me a misfire. Guess they were in the junkyard for a reason..Fingers crossed but it’s been smooth so far.

Bumpers have been dropped off to get stripped and repainted. Hope those come out okay. And I gave the car a much needed bath.

Next is some interior work, pinstripe removal, and a full cut and buff. Got my speakers in the rear deck. Still have more to add.

Once it is registered, it’ll get aligned and then we should be in business. Still have a rattle underneath to figure out too. I’m thinking it’s the flex pipe. Guess we will see. More to come.
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Steadily finishing this up. Hopefully will have bumpers within the week. Gotta finish up interior work still.
Removed the pinstripe (3M eraser wheels are so worth the money for a job like this) and began wet sanding and buffing the paint. Took me about two hours to get a fender and two doors done, but it’s worth it. Wet sand followed by a heavy cut, mild cut, polishing compound, and finishing polish. For almost 18 year old paint I’m very happy with the luster. Still plenty to do.
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Also replacing the window runners. The original ones are pretty dried out and one was damaged. I couldn’t find any at the junkyard off any 00-07 that looked good. I found that the Gen 3 ones held up a ton better so I took some nicer ones off a 1996. I’ll get those installed once I finish the paint work so they don’t get in the way.
Things are coming along. Can’t wait to get it on the road in about a month!
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
It’s been a bit since I’ve updated. Nothing too crazy to fill in except that I’ve been working on final assembly. Interior going back together. Trim pieces installed.
Put in the carpet from the 31k car at the junkyard… what a difference. Deep cleaned the interior pieces. Finished the ambient lighting (donor cars 2009 Milan for button/ 2010 escape for electrical/ 2010 fusion for pods) and then have to get the bumpers installed. The paint looks decent for the price but I’ll need to wet sand down some of the orange peel the paint guy left. He painted my sable bumper a couple years ago and did a better job so I’m a bit disappointed but I’ll clean it up. I hope.
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Mmmm, the wood grain shifter. You gonna try to find a ContiShift for this one? And are you gonna leave the door handles black?

Amazing work though.
I may be in the minority but I prefer the black door handles. They won’t peel off and there’s 0 other chrome so I’m happy as is. Sable was same way.

I kept the continental shifter I had in the sable… I don’t think I’ll be switching it out at least right now. I haven’t had the full woodgrain package and I like the look and feel of it. I have all the platinum edition trim from the sable too so if I ever install that, I guess I could put in that too. (I outfitted the sable with the full woodgrain for josh for the sale) But I really like the steering wheel with the woodgrain so I’m torn on changing it all out. Yeah the platinum interior would look great with these colors too… so I’ll think about it I suppose

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Getting closer and closer to getting it on the road. Just a final coat of wax, getting it registered, and getting an alignment are keeping me from driving it full time. It’s getting registration off the mountaineer (I can’t wait to stop driving that antique gas guzzler though part of me will miss it once it’s sold).
Bumpers are on. Did the wet sanding and polishing that the body guy was too lazy to do. Still disappointed in his work but for a 17 year old car, this thing looks utterly fantastic.

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
May I formally reintroduce you to my 2005 Taurus.

The car now has EVERY single option you could have gotten in 2005 except homelink (which doesn’t work with my garage anyways so I deleted it). I’m excited to get it on the road.

Except for an alignment and the ford OEM remote start (that will probably go in tonight) the car is done and ready for the road. It’s been hours and hours of work to get here, but the end result is a car I’ve gone through and know every inch of. This car will not ever be sold. The only way I’ll part with it at this point is if someone totals it on me and it’s just too far gone.
For almost 84k miles, this thing sure cleaned right up. It has its flaws, but what 17 year old Taurus doesn’t? The fact that it has all its sheet metal is more than enough. Not a single spec of rust is on this car and it will stay that way. The fusion will still get the garage, but this car will be pampered too.
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The list of things this car has gotten the past several months is borderline sickening.
Here’s a comprehensive list of EVERYTHING big and small:
Engine Air Filter
Cabin Air Filter
Motorcraft Fuel Filter
Motorcraft PCV valve
Felpro Upper and Lower intake manifold gaskets
Felpro Throttle body gasket
Felpro Valve cover gaskets with grommets
Felpro Timing Cover gaskets with crank seal
Felpro Oil pan gasket
Motorcraft Spark Plugs
OEM Ignition Coils
Motorcraft serpentine belt
Motorcraft Alternator (5k of use from Sable)
Motorcraft Upper radiator hose
Fresh Motorcraft Gold coolant
Updated Motorcraft OEM coolant jug cap
Replaced DPFE (oem used - from 09 Escape)
Throttle Body cable shield with recall clip
Battery cover
Strong Arm Hood lift supports
Replacement Windshield washer line assembly
SHO wiper arm
Better condition Wiper cowling (31k OEM used - donor car 2003 SES)
Walker Y pipe Exhaust gaskets
Motorcraft power steering high pressure hose
Motorcraft front Strut assemblies
Front SHO 24mm Sway bar And brackets/bushings
Front Mevotech heavy duty Sway bar links
Front lower motorcraft ball joints
Motorcraft inner tie rod ends
Motorcraft outer tie rod ends
Raybestos Front Brake rotors and pads
Misc replacement wiring connectors
Motorcraft rear strut cartridges
KYB rear upper strut mounts
Moog CC859 rear Cargo coils
Rear SHO 26mm Sway Bar and brackets/bushings
Mevotech heavy duty rear sway bar links (USA made!)
Rear disc brake conversion (basically NOS oem calipers, raybestos rotors and pads, OEM used spindles)
Two rear brake cables (OEM used)
Repaired exhaust heat shield (above resonator)
Installed rear trunk carpeting (decontented carpet that covers rear speakers from underneath and underside of trunk lid)
Cargo Net
Window Dew wipes (OEM used off 1996 GL)
Updated interior rear view mirror (2011 Fusion spare)
LED bulbs (dome lights, trunk light, license plate lights, puddle lamps)
Replacement carpet (31k OEM used)
Ford OEM carpeted floor mats (31k OEM used)
A Pillar plastic covers (31k OEM used)
B pillar lower covers (31k OEM used)
Replacement Sun visors (OEM used in better condition) (driver was broken and passenger was stained and fabric was loose)
Ford OEM ambient lighting (several donor vehicles)
Replaced broken dash small defrost vent (OEM used)
Replaced gouged rear left door panel (2006 SEL donor)
New oem key cut and programmed with nice used OEM fob
Master window switch replaced (fading and wear)
Mach Audio Amp and Tweeters
Polk Audio DXI570 speakers
Front bumper replaced
Plastic Bumper support (under grille)
Plastic bumper retainer passenger side (
Rear bumper repainted and polished
Front under shield replaced (OEM used)
Front forward mounting splash shields replaced (OEM used)
Nearly NOS Ford OEM centennial headlamps (barely used on my 2006 SE RIP)
Taurus SES sport wheels wrapped in new Continental tires
Pinstripe removed with Complete 6 step paint correction/protection (wet sand, abrasive compound, standard compound, polishing compound, finishing polish, collinite 845 wax)

I think that’s everything. The results are.. well it’s still a 2005 Taurus. But I’m thrilled with how the car has come out and I’ll continue to update as I drive it. I may even splurge and get the dings PDR’d though I may wait a bit for that. This was a lot of money to get it where it is now.

if you’ve read this whole thing, congratulations.
 
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