Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
I did some searching but what came up didn't seem to fit. I just came back from a 3 month stay and heading out again soon for another 3 months. The car's battery was toast, actually bubbling, so I replaced that. Then yesterday, I go to leave the house and the bull starts snorting bad!

I pulled the code today and it was a P301. I cleared it and it came right back. I had the A/C on when it was thrown and when I cleared it the second time I turned the A/C off.

The rough idle does not seem to happen when the car is in Park or in Neutral, why this matters I do not know.

But it is quite noticeable when the car is in gear (R, D, D1). Any thoughts? Like I said above, I will not be able to trouble shoot this much as I will be away. I was hoping for some good ol' knowledge to flow down for me to have for when I come back.

I have changed the plugs (50,000 miles ago) and the wires (10,000 miles ago). Up till this point, everything was running just fine.

The PCV valve has been changed as well since I've owned the car (probably within the last 3-4 years).

Thanks all! Anything else I can tell you, just ask :)

~matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
how do I check if it is a coil? This is one area that I'm ignorant around, but knowledge is power!

All I can say is that the car had sat in the garage for 3 months... with a start here and there. When I came back, the battery was fried. Replaced it with an AZ battery and everything was running fine.

Then go to drive it a day later, and the rough idle.

So, please write back or post links to coil problems, fixes, etc. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
you know, for a little extra knowledge here, I would like to know how the coil pack works in conjunction with the wires and plugs.

I understand the spark plug and wire aspect and how it all ignights the little gas, pushing the pistons down/up. But coil pack? is it the source of the 'electricity' that travels through the wires to the plugs?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,625 Posts
Google "waste spark ignition system".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well, everything that I've read up on (searched 'P0301' not just 'P301') is pointing towards the coil pack.

Do we have a good test procedure somewhere for it? Seems like the videos on YouTube and such are for Coil over Plug and that isn't our Vulcan engine.

If I take off the wire from the 1st sparkplug/cylinder is there a good way to test the coil pack before dropping $65 or so?

Thanks Jeff K, that was a good read!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,405 Posts
Az will test primary and secondary resistances on coil or you can do it yourself if you have an ohmmeter and haynes or chiltons book with the how-to and specs. for ignition coil testing. Let me warn you, mine have tested in spec. a number of times and have still failed under a load. After changing plugs and wires, i remove the coil and carefully physically inspect it for damage such as hairline cracks(esp. on the bottom), corrosion, etc. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Little video on DIS ignition

Thought I would post this back here. Made for a good learning tool. The last few minutes is selling the 'Wells Coil' but who cares, right?

BTW, I haven't been back to test the coil or plugs or anything else. Won't be back till mid-December.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,405 Posts
If plug or coil doesnt eliminate the misfire, next check would be #1 cyl. fuel inj. then compression or leak-down test.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Take the coil off and look at it. It is not unusual for those to be obviously cracked, either on the bottom, or near the towers where the wires connect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok all,
I'll be doing this Friday after Thanksgiving. Just wanted to get the last little bit of information before doing anything.

Since the Plugs are only 50K old and the wires are even newer (about 10K-15K) I'm *pretty* sure it isn't them.

I will remove the wires from the coil pack and visually inspect it. If I see cracks then replacement from AZ (brand I should choose/not choose?)

IF I don't see any visible damage, then I'll take to AZ to test the coil pack. If it tests bad, then replacement.

Here's the thing, if it doesn't test bad, is there a way to test the plugs firing while attached to the coil? I'm not very knowledgeable about these types of things.

I'm wondering, if the above tests pass a-okay, can I put the old coil pack back in, hook up all the wires and plugs and then just remove cylinder 1 plug and ground it and check whether it is firing properly? I'm thinking of grounding it to the block.

Is this possible to do? Will extra fuel be mixed into the valve and not be burned off? Will this be bad?

Thanks. Sorry if the questions are silly. Just want to get the ducks in a row before heading back and tackling this job.

~Matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
sorry for the ignorance, but how are these used? I'm also not sure what is meant by conventional or Recessed plugs.

Where would these tools be plugged into? Maybe a diagram would help me understand.

Thanks!

EDIT: Looking further at the website, I found this: http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/97000-97999/97577.pdf

It seems that the metal part (closer to the bulb) connects to the coil pack and the boot connects to the spark plug. Question here though, how in "the name of zeus butt hole" does this short boot connect to the spark plugs in the back of the engine?

Bonus points if you know the movie the quote above is from :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
301 misfire seems to be the most common misfire for this engine. I'm beginning to think the intake and or head is as much the culprit for this as anything. The Vulcan has a bad rep for overheating with head and intake damage. I don't like the 4 bolt pattern around the cylinders instead of the old tried and true 5 bolts. The 2 piece aluminum intake is a problem for water and air leaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
619 Posts
"The Rock" 1996.

The Vulcan has conventional plugs. Duratec has recessed plugs. You can disconnect either end of the plug wire and attach the tester, but it will probably fit better on the plug end.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
that's a good thought, the gas that is.

I had turned the car over (or rather a friend did) 1 or 2 times in those 3 months. While I was gone, the battery decided to die on me. This was very clear when I tried to start it up the first time.

I changed the battery out, after hearing a hissing noise coming from it. I proceeded to drive it 120 miles (out to Orlando airport and back) to pick up my brother. The very next day the P0301 with the rough idle started up (about 24 hours after the trip to Orlando).

I cannot remember right now, but knowing the mileage and my own habits (not letting the tank get below 1/4 tank) I'm pretty sure I filled up. If this is true, then the tank would have mostly newer gas in it then the older gas. And I did not notice anything unusual with my 120+ trip.

It very well could be a gasoline issue, but my roommate moved the car a couple of weeks ago and said it was still driving very poorly.

EDIT:
I have found a YouTube video of using the inline spark testers recommended above. I see now how they work. I'm assuming that I can purchase, hook up to the 1st spark plug wire (or plug) and complete the circuit. Then fire up and come back around and see the bulb pulsating on a regular interval.

Thought, is it worth it to get 2 of these and hook them up to the other sister cylinder (paired cylinder)? My thought is that both should fire at the same time right, so the bulbs should be on and off at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Any thoughts on the following thought above?

"Thought, is it worth it to get 2 of these and hook them up to the other sister cylinder (paired cylinder)? My thought is that both should fire at the same time right, so the bulbs should be on and off at the same time."

Thanks and sorry for the bump!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok, hoping that this one last bump will get some attention over the weekend.

The question I have is: will having two of these spark testers (one on each of the two paired coils) be better than just having one?

The idea would be, a more noticeable synchronized spark in both plugs/coils.
-OR-
Do I just get one and see that it sparks on a constant basis?

Thanks! Again, sorry for multiple bumps, just need to get this answered so that I can order these parts and have them ready to go for Thanksgiving holiday weekend.

~Matt
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top