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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

My wife's "Check Engine" light is on. The car is a 2006 Taurus SE with some kind of 3.0L engine. I don't see any identifiers on the engine as to whether it is a Yamaha, or Duratech or whatever the other one is in the "fill out the details on your car" part of the registration process for this forum.

Anyway, I took the car to my local AutoZone to have the code identified. It came up as a P0430 which indicates a below threshold catalytic converter on Bank 2. However, I have been unable to identify which side of the engine Bank 2 is on. Ford identifies the sides (or at least the exhaust manifolds) as Right and Left.
So my questions are as follows:

1) Which side is Bank 2? Is it the side closest to the grill or the side closest to the firewall?

2) Have any of you had this problem? If so, how have you solved it short of replacing the converter, which is out of the question as the converters (at least from Ford) cost more than the car is worth.

3) In my searches I have seen these "solutions" to the problem on different cars:
a) Putting lacquer thinner into the fuel;
b) Putting catalytic converter cleaner into the fuel;
c) Removing the converter and cleaning it in an acid bath;
d) Installing a spacer between the downstream O2 sensor and the offending converter;
e) Installing a low-pass filter (a resistor-capacitor) circuit in the signal line from the downstream O2 sensor.

Has anyone had success with any of these approaches or do you have any other ideas?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Bank#2= radiator. Bank#1= firewall. Fwiw, bank#1 is where #1 cylinder resides, which on our cars, is the firewall bank. May try changing the upstream (pre-cat) o2 sensor which is located right behind the radiator with a green elec. conn. (plug). It takes a 22mm (7/8") wrench or o2 socket. Any other codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the quick reply!

No other codes. And yes, I actually have seen that O2 sensor. Looks pretty easy to reach.
 

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^+1. It's definitely the easiest of the 4 o2 sensors to access. May try Rockauto online for the best price. If no success, I'd at least get the cats tested. Might tap on the bank#2 cat with a rubber mallet and listen for rattling/broken substrate. Are you experiencing any driveability issues such as lack of power. If so, may test drive the car with the #2 upstream o2 sensor removed and see if power is improved. Can also run vacuum test(s).
 

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Yes, follow the same bank#2 pipe from the exhaust manifold. It'll be to the rear of the bank#2 cat. and have a blue elec. conn. (plug). It's not your problem. You have a cat for each bank and a 3rd cat which isn't monitored by the pcm (powertrain computer).
 

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Hi all,

My wife's "Check Engine" light is on. The car is a 2006 Taurus SE with some kind of 3.0L engine. I don't see any identifiers on the engine as to whether it is a Yamaha, or Duratech or whatever the other one is in the "fill out the details on your car" part of the registration process for this forum.

Anyway, I took the car to my local AutoZone to have the code identified. It came up as a P0430 which indicates a below threshold catalytic converter on Bank 2. However, I have been unable to identify which side of the engine Bank 2 is on. Ford identifies the sides (or at least the exhaust manifolds) as Right and Left.
So my questions are as follows:

1) Which side is Bank 2? Is it the side closest to the grill or the side closest to the firewall?

2) Have any of you had this problem? If so, how have you solved it short of replacing the converter, which is out of the question as the converters (at least from Ford) cost more than the car is worth.

3) In my searches I have seen these "solutions" to the problem on different cars:
a) Putting lacquer thinner into the fuel;
b) Putting catalytic converter cleaner into the fuel;
c) Removing the converter and cleaning it in an acid bath;
d) Installing a spacer between the downstream O2 sensor and the offending converter;
e) Installing a low-pass filter (a resistor-capacitor) circuit in the signal line from the downstream O2 sensor.

Has anyone had success with any of these approaches or do you have any other ideas?

Thanks in advance!
Have you received any feedback on your question #3? I am wondering the same thing you mention and curious if it is worth spending monies on a cleaner or doing a leak test.
 

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If the cat is not plugged and is still flowing freely, the "MIL Eliminators" (the extension that looks like a spark plug anti-fouler from back in the old days) work great. Dont ask me how I know this :) Even if the cat is plugged, you can remove it, remove the broken up honeycomb, reinstall the gutted cat and install the MIL eliminator extension.

IMO, cleaning the cat with various chemicals rarely works well if at all.
 
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