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CAT Replaced

Finished the front CAT replacement last weekend. Pretty straightforward job. Only hiccup was the lower flange studs. They are low grade (8.8 metric/grade 5 standard). Crimp nuts stripped one on removal and one of the new ones on install.


Here's a pic of the original CAT inlet:



And the new one:



After seeing the condition of the original CAT, I am going to replace the other side, against the firewall, but am not looking forward to that job.
 

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I have the a 4 code problem p0171 p0174 p0430 and p1450 I have the vehicle at the Ford Shop and they are quoting me just south of $500 to fix this and still be on the hook for a $750 Cat conv. if problem reoccurs. so possibly a $1250 with replaced cat con and the following. Should I bite the bullet and get it fixed by them the following is the breakdown, the diagnostics of ($129) and do the vapor management valve installed ($129.33) clean throttle body($185) and reprogram powertrain control module($75.08) or just pay the $130 and do it all by ourselves? emphasis on the WE lmao
 

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LOL (kinda). I went through the same thing. I had bought a new (cheapie) one about four/five years ago, so thought it had to be good. Nope, Finally bought a good one on sale and when it arrived, I took the old one out. The whole honeycomb section was just 'in there'...nothing more. Put the new one in and had no problems since. Gave the car to my grand daughter last week. I think the 0430 is about as accurate as any thing Ford built.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Still haven't done the fix on this. The CEL keeps going off and turning on by itself. Money has been tight which is why the delay on my fixing this. I found a website that sells OEM Ford parts for cheap, so when I'm ready to buy both sets of CATs, I'll get them from there. $210/ea+ shipping, so it's doable....just not quite now for me. I know the issue can turn into something more costly, but I hope it can last a few more months. I'll DIY the fix myself though, so that'll save who knows how many hundreds of dollars when the time comes.

Finished the front CAT replacement last weekend. Pretty straightforward job. Only hiccup was the lower flange studs. They are low grade (8.8 metric/grade 5 standard). Crimp nuts stripped one on removal and one of the new ones on install.


Here's a pic of the original CAT inlet:
http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/tt181/Myetball/WP_20180521_08_45_40_Pro_zpsuzlkpdhp.jpg


And the new one:
http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/tt181/Myetball/WP_20180521_08_46_05_Pro_zps1i81helb.jpg


After seeing the condition of the original CAT, I am going to replace the other side, against the firewall, but am not looking forward to that job.
Wow! what a big difference! But I'm surprised that just a little bit of fuzz would make such a big deal for the code to pop up. Were you able to discern how thick the honeycomb is? And it's hard to tell in the pic, but is the CAT element plugged up? If it is plugged up, and now that you have the new one on, have you noticed any performance improvements or increase in MPGs?

I have the a 4 code problem p0171 p0174 p0430 and p1450 I have the vehicle at the Ford Shop and they are quoting me just south of $500 to fix this and still be on the hook for a $750 Cat conv. if problem reoccurs. so possibly a $1250 with replaced cat con and the following. Should I bite the bullet and get it fixed by them the following is the breakdown, the diagnostics of ($129) and do the vapor management valve installed ($129.33) clean throttle body($185) and reprogram powertrain control module($75.08) or just pay the $130 and do it all by ourselves? emphasis on the WE lmao
For the $500 ballpark figure, what are they going to do to "fix" the problem if they're not replacing the CAT? Or is that $500 + $750 for the CAT for a total of $1250 to do the job?

See if the $129 diagnostic fee can be applied to the cost of the repair. Cleaning the throttle body should be an easy task of just a few bolts and some carb cleaner / brake cleaner.

Why do they need to reprogram the PCM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I'm finally getting around to this and am in the process of installing the exhaust manifold bolts. But key information I don't know is, what are the exhaust manifold bolt torque specs?

Currently I have them installed finger tight +1/4 turn by ratchet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4BN3wR1TBVXF8bvH8

^^ $575. That's how much the pair of CATs cost from the dealership. I was unable to buy them online at the much lower price of $213 and $207 for whatever the reason may be. One vendor had a dumb policy of "we can only ship to your 'ship-to' address if you buy through PayPal" I gave them the middle finger on that and told them I'd buy elsewhere for more money if they didn't accept my VISA as payment, which I did. I bought front and back because I'm of the type of mentality that "If one is bad, the other one probably isn't too far behind".

Anyway, I found the answer to my question above with torque specs on the CATs / manifold. 18lbs on the nuts.

Also, I'm not sure why Ford didn't just use bolts instead of studs for removing the manifolds. I had two of the studs come off on the rear head when I removed the original CAT. It was rather annoying to have to separate the stud from the nut and then reinstall just the stud before being able to continue. BTW, the studs are 5mm.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/55QzBvgE88cbunUj8

Pictures of the old CATs

Front: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jxnDem6BoVHBjFkY8

Rear: https://photos.app.goo.gl/upSmi8VVr4deAFxk6

The front one just had buildup of stuff. The rear one had damaged honeycomb material. I'm not sure exactly why P0430 is considered "failed" if it looks fine? I guess the car's ECU knows best, right?

All said and done, the job was relatively straight forward. The rear CAT was a little more difficult to work with as about 95% of that part of the job was under the car. I had to remove the upper intake manifold to reach a few of the bolts and the primary o2 sensor removal. Unless anyone here knows of an easier way to access that top end hardware for the next person that needs to do this, that is what I did to make that part of the job happen.

I also ended up replacing the air filter because it looked pretty dirty.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/omyFuWxL7jxt9TJy5

And the car now has 99,2xx miles and the cabin filter has never been replaced. Yea, I replaced it as well, lol. The old one was rather disgusting!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cUMeeTpdG4EpZSpp9
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
It's just shy of a week and the car has been driving code free!
 
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Ebay or Amazon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Bump.

I have a new, and related, issue. Thread linked below:

 
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