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Since ford is incapable of checking for engine codes, even after I assured them that they were there as well as telling them which ones they were, I may be forced to diagnose this myself.

Car history: I have always had a P0325 code (knock sensor) code stored in my computer, but no light. My SES light came on 3 weeks ago and had a 340. I replaced my cam position sensor (CID) ($14 wells sensor from autozone) and reset the pcm by disconnecting the battery then running the obdii drive cycle for the computer to relearn. I took my car to my mechanic this morning to clear the codes and see which ones come up after a week. The 340 dissappeared, but the 325 was still there and I had it cleared. Should I replace the knock sensor too($40 for the sensor
)? Ever since replacing my CID, my car does not hesitate any more at 4000rpm, but I think it feels a little heavier. I could attribute it to that or the new o2's I put in a few days ago, I dont know for sure. If it is important to know, I can swap the old CID sensor back and find out.

Few more q's:

Is the sensor brand important? I went with NTK for my o2's since they are the oem brand and were cheaper than the bosch's. Is it safe to go with wells sensors for the sensors I decide to replace down the line? I want somethign which will last and make my engine run at maximum effeciency and performance.

How can I test my maf? My reading at idle with all accessories, radio, etc off is .8v. My mechanic's book and the tech's book at the ford dealer say idle range is .5-.7 volts. I found a halfassed graph on my 96 serivce cd which said .8v @ idle. I also found a flow graph, so does anyone know any places that can bench test a maf?


Word to the wise, if you ever get an engine repalced under warranty, make sure they are using new sensors and not the ones from your old crappy engine.
 
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Also, will my car pass smog even though a code is stored, no ses, and non-detectable by the ford tech?

fyi, my mechanic is using a snap on 2500 scanner.
 

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For the smog they won't pull the codes so as long as the light isn't on and you don't fail on something like your gas cap you will pass.

They just check to see if the check engine light is on (at least at the muffler places I went to out there).

If your car was older they just might pull the codes to see if you had any billable work that could be performed.
 

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Originally posted by saerandy@Jan 3 2004, 09:08 AM
For the smog they won't pull the codes so as long as the light isn't on and you don't fail on something like your gas cap you will pass.

They just check to see if the check engine light is on (at least at the muffler places I went to out there).

If your car was older they just might pull the codes to see if you had any billable work that could be performed.
This depends on where you live and what level of emissions testing is being performed.

Many states are now using OBDII-based emissions testing. They hook a scanner up to the car's computer and pull codes. If there are no codes and all the correct flags are okay, there is an automatic pass of the vehicle. It never sees the dyno unless there is an OBDII failure posted.

Quite the opposite from what it used to be like.

Steve
 
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I'm in CA and when I did my smog test a year ago, they did check for codes. However, I am wondering that my car has codes stored, but not an active ses light if that still is passing or not. Some how ford's scanners only found a 1000 code which says everything is ok, but my mechanic pulled those codes in the subject right in front of my eyes.

I went ahead and ordered a knock sensor from autozone for $40. It was the cheapest price I've seen for a KS on my car. It will be here on wednesday, so have to wait now...might pop the old CID in and see if that caused the car to feel a bit heavier.
 
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