No problem! The crank sensor is located on the driver's side of the engine, under the upper intake manifold. It's a little hard to see because of the wiring harness. I'll attempt to get you to it though. Follow the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing, which is mounted on the lower intake. Directly behind that, mounted in the engine block, is a black plastic piece, about 2" diameter, with an electrical connection on it. It is mounted to the syncronizer shaft, which looks like half a distributor shaft. The sensor is the black plastic part. Remove the electrical connector, and the two screws holding the sensor on to the shaft, and remove it. Replace the sensor and reinstall the screws and the connector. Don't remove the whole shaft, as you need a tool to time it afterwards. If you need any help, or pictures, let me know and I'll take some for you.
Also, do you think replacing this will fix whatever it is going on with my car (which is nothing that I notice, other than the SES light coming on)? I'm just afraid that I am going to spend $50 (how much is this part?) on this sensor and then find out the reason for the failure was due to something else and I'm just going to have to end up replacing it again...
They pulled up the same code as mine on a '96 Bull stating, "Removing the sensor from the housing revealed the problem. The shaft was physically bent and the sensor was damaged."
Obviously they state the fix as, "...replace the sensor and housing with new parts."
Does the sensor come with a new housing, or is that a seperate purchase? I also found the standard time on this is 36 mins for a mechanic, with the part running $10-$15 for the OEM Motorcraft part #: DU-69.
Are sensors just consumable parts that always need replacing, or do you think something else caused this problem.
It is possible to test the sensor, with a voltmeter. What you'd need to do is leave the connector on, and stick some small wires into the backside of the connector, right alongside each wire. I forget the exact values, but one wire should have constant voltage, and the other should put out a pulsing voltage when cranking the engine. While doing this test, unplug the harness from the coil pack so the car doesn't start.
That part number sounds more like a Wells brand part than a Motorcraft. I think the cam sensor for the Vulcan is around $30, just for the sensor.
What I would do is test the sensor as outlined above, and go from there.
I'll snap a pic later on today, when I have more time.
Here is some bad news... Called the local Ford dealer, guess I was wrong about the part cost.
The parts guy tells me that when that code flashes you typically need to replace 2 parts. The Cap and the Synchronizer. The Cap is $60, the Synchronizer is $155, OUCH!. He was out of both parts, and he says they go through at least one of these replacements a week.
Wow that Ford-trucks website has got some great information... Totally forgot that the Vulcan is used on those Rangers also.
After reading everything, I'm not sure if I should replace it myself or have the dealer do it... Obviously you did the fix yourself, but you didn't have a bent or damaged shaft. Knowing me and my luck, I'd say my cam shaft assembly is bent to hell. THANKS for the link.
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