Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I've been a member for a while and have read a ton on here over the last seven years that I've owned my 00 Taurus.
First, I want to thank you guys for sharing such great information and helping those of us that like to do our own work and (hopefull) save some money.
I'll list the things I've done at the end of this thread. I want to share my experience regarding the dreaded P0304 misfire. I recently pressure washed my engine and soon after it was stumbling bad and caused a P0306 code. I read through the forum and swapped out Cyl 4 coil for Cyl 6. The code moved to a P0304. Bad coil right. Wrong. I bought a new coil and tossed it on Cyl 4. Same stumble and code. I pulled the front bank and blew compressed air in them to clean out the water, and/or oil. While driving the stumble seemed to go away if the throttle position was changed and seemingly only under a slight load.
Long story short. After about 5 days of driving it - no more stumble or code. Somewhere along the line I must have pressure washed something that didn't like 1500psi water and caused a misfire along the front bank.
I have 197k on my Taurus. Same MotorCraft plugs and coils. I've since bought new plugs, wires, fuel filter, and replace the major vacuum lines.

Oh, here's a tip, if you're trying to find a vacuum leak wearing welding gloves on a running engine, be careful not to break off the heater hose T fitting that goes to the overflow resevoir. The skin peeled off the left side of my face that the hot anti-freeze scalded me with when I broke it. A bit of a design flaw in my honest opinion.

Things I've done:
- replaced dash lights (great write up!)
- dyno-mat the interior and trunk (added Infinity speakers and a sub while it was apart)
- installed an auto-dimming mirror
- installed SHO rear disks brakes
- installed 2003+ front brakes
- removed the a/c shim and got my a/c running again (great write up but awful design to have to drop the engine sub-frame - good grief)
- replaced all wheel bearing all the way around with Timkin's
- installed the SHO rear y-pipe for dual mufflers
- tinted the windows
- replaced drivers door (accident victim - swapping out the door handle with the code entry system is tough - triple-jointed-installers welcome)
- installed Centenial headlights
- removed airbox baffle and used K&N filter
- lowered car with Eibach springs - until one broke - went back to stock
- replaced fuel filler pipe (that'll make ya sweat with the gas tank wide open as you're trying to put the new hose together)
- installed MACH tuner/amp in place of stock for more wattage.
- replaced all brakes and struts a few times (including swaybar links - they seem to break easily - the front ones were plastic for gawds sakes)

Anyway, it's been a great car and I appreciate all you guys offer!

~Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,425 Posts
...be careful not to break off the heater hose T fitting that goes to the overflow resevoir. The skin peeled off the left side of my face that the hot anti-freeze scalded me with when I broke it. A bit of a design flaw in my honest opinion.
Gosh dude, horrible...
I was looking at that tiny T fitting when I was trying to figure things out in the engine bay and I was wonderig about that, knowing that when is hot, it is a pressurized system (even if the pump/engine is not working you have some 8-10psi in there, relief valve is at 16psi).
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top