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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello fellow Bull owners,

I just finished a search in this forum - didn't really see my questions posted - anyway...

My Taurus does not idle very well when warm - it will stutter occationally. I was thinking of replacing the O2 sensors, as they were relatively cheap at Advance Auto (less than $45 each for Bosch) I had the head gasket replaced in the spring, as it blew big time. I did get the check engine light when the gasket blew, but it has been several months & no light.

1) My gas mileage is only 22 highway - used to get 26. Some of you always recommend to change the O2 sensors when the head gasket blows, but I'm not seeing codes - what's your opinion, worth my while to try to get better mileage? FYI - plugs changed at 30K & 60K; new wires, rotor & cap; new fuel filter; air filter OK, etc...

2) I was under the car tonight - how the hell do you get these out, especially the rear? I'm afraid if I buy these, I won't be able to get the old ones out. What is the technique?

3) I'm also getting a somewhat strong wiff of gas when I get out of the car & sometimes in the car itself - this could also be an issue with poor gas mileage - your thoughts, guesses or smart-a$$ comments are always welcome!

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The rear O2 sensor is really recessed - I doubt that I can get a wrench on it. Can't use a socket, unless I cut the cable, but then I'm not sure how I would tighten the new one. Front one I might be able to get a wrench onto it. Any other tips for what tools other people have used?
 

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There is a special socket tall enough to fit over the O2 sensor. It has a slot for the wire.

I hope it's easier to get to the connectors on your Gen2. It is not easy on the Gen 3 Duratec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks SableOHC!

I did some Google searches & found the socket you mentioned - here's a link for one:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd3259.html

If the link doesn't work, do a search on "oxygen sensor socket" & you'll get lots of hits.

I hope to get one this weekend & replace both sensors.
 

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This thread is like 4 years old.... :blink:
 

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whoa...I was just reading this now and it's still helpful!!!111oneone
 

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yeah, i just replaced my O2's a few days ago. I tried using a wrench and a propane toarch with no luck.

finally went to autozone and got a crowsfoot for 10 bucks, came off about 10 seconds later with minimal effort, def. worth the money for it.
 

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yeah, I'm about to go and do mine, I'm worried about them being stuck...guess I'll never know until I try.
 

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There is a special socket tall enough to fit over the O2 sensor. It has a slot for the wire.

I hope it's easier to get to the connectors on your Gen2. It is not easy on the Gen 3 Duratec.
[/b]
My check engine light comes on occasionally, and I SUSPECT it may be something to do with the thermostat or the O2 sensor. Just don't know where they're located on the 3.0. It isn't, however, overheating at all that I can tell, but my temperature gauge doesn't work, and the coolant tank is full, and stays that way (even seems to overflow on top the reservoir, but this is probably because the FIRST time the check engine light came on, I poured water into the reservoir because it was very low!). I would like to know how to fix the temperature gauge problem. It's probably a sensor. I have a 1991 Taurus GL station wagon with the 3.0 V6. I don't know which 3.0 it is. Car was made June 1991. I have noticed a very SLIGHT vibration occasionally, but think this is because I have a bad motor mount (just don't know WHERE they are!), or it could very well be the 02 sensor.

I have not owned a Ford since about 1985, and that one was a 1964 Ford Falcon! So I'm completely lost when it comes to working on Fords. I just know I got fed up with GM crap!

There is a special socket tall enough to fit over the O2 sensor. It has a slot for the wire.

I hope it's easier to get to the connectors on your Gen2. It is not easy on the Gen 3 Duratec.
[/b]
 

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Make sure the connector is on the gage sender.

You can test the gage and associated circuitry by first grounding it, should go full HOT. Applying 12V to the lead should go full COLD.
 

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Spray PB blast on the bung the night before you're going to do the job.
Let it marinade over night and in the morning it should come right out with a swivel and O2 socket.

USE CAUTION when heating those suckers up on the rear of the engine in a gen 2. The VSS is right there hidden away directly underneath the rear O2 sensor with the spedo cable running right up close to it and across to the fire wall.
You will melt it pretty good if not really careful.
 

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I'm thinking I'm going to get mine replaced after xmas probably. They told me to come back if the light comes on after they fixed the gasket.

It doesn't too much, but I'd rather just get it fixed. How much you think it'll run me?
 

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I'm thinking I'm going to get mine replaced after xmas probably. They told me to come back if the light comes on after they fixed the gasket.

It doesn't too much, but I'd rather just get it fixed. How much you think it'll run me?
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get a crow's foot and do it yourself in 15 min :)
 

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I just snapped off the tip of the bad sensor and used socket wrench to remove it.

when I did the transmission swap I needed to use two long screwdrivers to
disengage the connectors to the sensors. I'm good at it now after laying on my
back for a while !

some replacement sensors let you use the existing pigtail and you just
use the splice connectors provided to install the new sensors.
 
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