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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 98 ford taurus DOHC that overheats it bubbles up in the return bottle but not in the radiator. I have replaced the thermostat flushed the radiator, the heater also stopped working. It sounds like it is boiling and fluid backs up into the Reservoir.No fluid in the dipstick or coming out tail pipe. Does the water pump leak if it goes bad? Pump pulley turning okay. It has not leaked yet. REALLY NEED HELp
 

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sounds like a bad water pump or clog. for some reason the taurus only likes motorcraft thermostats. easier way to tell if pump is bad is to check the hose coming out of it. using the grab and burn your hand method. also check the hoses in and out of the core. should feel hot in and out of the core also you should feel fluid moving through it like a garden hose. being a 98 i would just change the pump and any hose that looks old or feels weak.
 

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Timmy,
Easiest to fix would be an air pocket. Fill expansion tank and run til hot then turn off and let engine cool. Do this several times until fluid level stays the same in expansion tank. If that is not it then Big Dog is probably right. The metal vanes inside the water pump are known to corrode and fall apart.

Ed
 

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My '96 DOHC did exactly the same thing couple weeks ago.
This was the pump:

 

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i dont know but my first thought is you warped a head. i had a 91 lumina that that was the problem there, of course if the pumps broken the the heater wont work either due to lack of water/antifreeze. so i'd say your pump is like that pictured above.
 

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Sounds like the water pump is failing, impellers on the water pumps used on the DOHC break off if corroded. Also sounds like the heater core might be plugged. I have a 1999 3.0L Vulcan and my vehicle iwas starting to run hot at idle but cooled off while driving. My heater core was plugged causing this, but I decided to replace everything, thermostat, water pump, heater core, degas bottle, cap, radiator drain **** and every hose in the cooling system, since my vehicle is getting ready to hit 150k.
 

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Heater core is allright. Mine wasn't working either when the pump was broken - there is not enough pressure to "push" the water up into the heater core. Water there just stagnates.

LE: My Duratec engine survived driving it without the waterpump for 5-8 milers. The temp raised to the top of "normal" range (not on red).
 

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i dont know but my first thought is you warped a head. i had a 91 lumina that that was the problem there, of course if the pumps broken the the heater wont work either due to lack of water/antifreeze. so i'd say your pump is like that pictured above.
VERY rare to warp a head on a Duratec. 24 V DOHC Aluminum V6 is a totally diffetent animal than a 91 cast iron pushrod GM V6.
 

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The metal vanes inside the water pump are known to corrode and fall apart.

Ed
Electrolysis in a poorly maintained Vulcan cooling system will do this. It does not happen in a Duratec all aluminum engine though. Their pumps are run so long that the impeller breaks eventually, as stated above.
 

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my 90 had that excact problem, i changed the water pump and it stoped over heating and bubbleing
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Turned out to be the water pump; impellar fell apart. Only way to get to the water pump that I could see was the front passinger wheel well. Jacked the car up on the official jack point and started to take the tire off and "Crunch!" the the jack point gave and the jack went up through the bottom of the car. I just put it back together and a shop Charged $270 just in labor. I just have to sweep up the pile of rust from when the jack went through the bottom and figure out how to fix the hole. It runs fine now, no overheating. But how the heck do I chane a tire on this thing if I can't jack it up?
 

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Wow... It needs some serious welding.
You can change a tire if you put the jack somewhere else under the frame, but I think that most of it is rusted.
I would let a body shop to take a look, you don't want something... important to break while you are doing 70 on the highway.
 

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Is there anyway to tell id=f the vanes have broken off, from outside the water pump, or is this a 'take it apart and check it' solution.
I ask because I have noticed the engine heating up when not moving,but cools right down once I've got air through the radiator.
I first noticed the engine not feeling 'right' and looked down at the temp gauge. It was right at the top. I pulled over and heard some rattling a pinging. I stopped the car and let it sit for about 20 minutes and drove home with the temp needle going up and down. It never hit the top though. Just dang close.
 

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Oh... One more item. The check engine light came on this morning. I swapped cars and left it in the driveway. i'll put a code reader on it this evening and see what it says.
 

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If the impeller is cracked / rotted off, driving with air going thru the radiator wont cool the engine down, as there is no coolant flow thru the radiator in the first place.

Are your cooling fans working on both high and low speeds?
 

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I had the exact same failure on my 96 sable wagon on 9/11/14, 120k miles. I think it finally broke when i accelerated strongly on the highway. Temp gauge pegged quickly and engine lost power. i managed to get to a garage where it died in the parking lot. They took a half day to fix it (replaced water pump, tstat, two temp sensors) and charged $1k.

Perhaps this pump should be replaced as a wear item at 100k.
 
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