Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,425 Posts
Take the TR sensor out and see if the ax going in the transmission is moving free or is engaging someting inside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Take the TR sensor out and see if the ax going in the transmission is moving free or is engaging someting inside.
I have the sensor's bolts loose...is that metal bit going to retain its position through the sensor? I am new at this, but should I mark where the rectangular metal bit below the threading is somehow before removing the sensor as a whole?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,425 Posts
Put the handle on "N" before so you can alingn it back.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,591 Posts
I dont think you have an electrical problem. Check tranny fluid level with engine off. Start engine and check level again. Did level drop significantly? If no, either the pump driveshaft has snapped or the pump has failed. COuld also be the torque converter has failed. Reverse is 100% mechanically controlled. If reverse doesnt work (assuming the shifter cable is working correctly) you have an internal trans problem that will require repair. Snapped pump shaft can be fixed with tranny in the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,425 Posts
Is that square metal ax moving easy or is not moving (should not be easy to rotate)?
My sensor was bad and didn's send correct reading into the PCM. You can read the actual values for the resistance.
I need to find that specific post with the values between pins 4 and 5...
I think was like 3000 ohms in "P", 1500 ohms in "R" and going down so on the rest of positions. Moving that sensor by hand you can feel the positions. Picture below shows the alignment points for putting it back on "N".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is that square metal ax moving easy or is not moving (should not be easy to rotate)?
My sensor was bad and didn's send correct reading into the PCM. You can read the actual values for the resistance.
I need to find that specific post with the values between pins 4 and 5...
I think was like 3000 ohms in "P", 1500 ohms in "R" and going down so on the rest of positions. Moving that sensor by hand you can feel the positions. Picture below shows the alignment points for putting it back on "N".
I used a dry rag and I cannot move the ax by hand at all.

I do not have the means of testing the output. Is this something Advance Auto Parts could do for me?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I dont think you have an electrical problem. Check tranny fluid level with engine off. Start engine and check level again. Did level drop significantly? If no, either the pump driveshaft has snapped or the pump has failed. COuld also be the torque converter has failed. Reverse is 100% mechanically controlled. If reverse doesnt work (assuming the shifter cable is working correctly) you have an internal trans problem that will require repair. Snapped pump shaft can be fixed with tranny in the car.
I accidentally left the car on while keeping it in N all day yesterday, killing the battery. I hooked it up to my Jeep and revved for at least 5 minutes, and let it idle for another 15 and it still will not start. Should I try again this morning leaving it on longer? Nothing electronic works, door locks, trunk, lights, nothing. Does the range sensor being out have anything to do with that or do I just need to charge it back up?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,566 Posts
Range Selector

I accidentally left the car on while keeping it in N all day yesterday, killing the battery. I hooked it up to my Jeep and revved for at least 5 minutes, and let it idle for another 15 and it still will not start. Should I try again this morning leaving it on longer? Nothing electronic works, door locks, trunk, lights, nothing. Does the range sensor being out have anything to do with that or do I just need to charge it back up?
The tran range switch will not let the vehicle start unless it is in P or N. It used to be called a "Safety" switch. It if is un plugged or not in the right position, or if it is faulty, nothing is going to happen. The fuse #7, hot at all times goes through the 'P" and "N" position of that switch. No switch plugged in, not much will happen.

Might just buy a new switch as a starting point.

-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,425 Posts
That sensor needs to be in place and aligned as in the above pic for the car to start. That is because it has also conntacts to neutral safety switch and reverse lights.
Advance Auto parts can rent you a meter to check the resitors between 4 and 5.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The tran range switch will not let the vehicle start unless it is in P or N. It used to be called a "Safety" switch. It if is un plugged or not in the right position, or if it is faulty, nothing is going to happen. The fuse #7, hot at all times goes through the 'P" and "N" position of that switch. No switch plugged in, not much will happen.

Might just buy a new switch as a starting point.

-chart-
I reattached the switch and got the car started. Tested the atf at cold and warm (middle of the temp gauge) and this was the result:

http://www.imgur.com/6mcnR.jpg

Cold, the fluid stopped at the C in crosshatch
Warm, the fluid stopped at the A in add
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That sensor needs to be in place and aligned as in the above pic for the car to start. That is because it has also conntacts to neutral safety switch and reverse lights.
Advance Auto parts can rent you a meter to check the resitors between 4 and 5.
Reattached and it started fine. Reverse does NOT work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,425 Posts
I got a sensor/switch from the salvage yard. Should not be too expensive. And if is NOT that switch, is not something that you could do easily to fix.
Worth a try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I got a sensor/switch from the salvage yard. Should not be too expensive. And if is NOT that switch, is not something that you could do easily to fix.
Worth a try.
Additional note: The car will NOT rev past 3500 RPMs. I started it and put the pedal down for a few seconds and it maxed out at 3500. Is this indicative of a torque convertor malfunction or could it be a solenoid issue? Again, the car gave ZERO warning signs and made no noise when the car stopped shifting...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,425 Posts
There is a rev limiter in "P" and "N"... It's normal.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top