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Hi fellas. I'd like to hear your opinions.
My 89 wagon engine was rebuilt except for pistons (only rings) and water pump. I've been using 20w-50 which I consider it to be way too thick (starting to have tap noise, would disappear after a while). Manual reads that I should use 10w-30 or 10w-40, which one would be better for the engine?
3.8 essex - It has 90k miles
 

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If you live in the great frozen north, use 5W30. If you live in the southern states where it rarely gets cold, 10W30 is fine.
 

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Alright. It rarely gets colder than 5 or 6 C°
10-40 stills being too thick for the car then?
 

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I use Ow-30 Mobil1 in everything, 2000 taurus, (duretech) 07 Infiniti G35x, 18 Mustang GT, 03 Expedition (5.4)
 

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I often use the Bardahl 15w40 sn (vulcan 3.0) it works fine in the Texas/northern mexico weather. You should look for a good coolant too. the bardahl oil isn't expensive and gets the job done.
 

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I often use the Bardahl 15w40 sn (vulcan 3.0) it works fine in the Texas/northern mexico weather. You should look for a good coolant too. the bardahl oil isn't expensive and gets the job done.
Alright. Thank you guys for the feedback. I think I'm going for a 10-30. I live in an area where the weather can only reach like 28 Celsius and never goes below 7 or 8 Celsius. Been running on 20-50 but I agree it's too thick for my oil pump, when I stop at a red light the oil light comes up blinking til I accelerate.
 

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I have used 10W-30 Castrol for 26 years on an engine now with 170,000 miles (3.0 1993 LX Sedan.) Warm coastal California. You should have a sticker on the radiator apron that calls out the correct oil in block letters but I believe it will say 5W-30. I think I started with the 10W-30 because 5W-30 was not widely available here at the time the car was new. I do add Marvel's Mystery Oil once in awhile to the oil, at an amount recommended by them. Whether that does anything is a good question, but it helps psychologically.

A car with a rebuilt engine which has lifter noise at start-up and an oil pressure light at idle is very alarming, at least to me. I kind of doubt oil viscosity would account for either of those issues, frankly. If you switch to thinner oil as recommended, and these go away, then great. But...traditionally, low oil pressure at idle was a symptom of excess clearance in cam bearings, and next in crank and connecting rod bearings. Hopefully this engine was rebuilt correctly.
 

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I have used 10W-30 Castrol for 26 years on an engine now with 170,000 miles (3.0 1993 LX Sedan.) Warm coastal California. You should have a sticker on the radiator apron that calls out the correct oil in block letters but I believe it will say 5W-30. I think I started with the 10W-30 because 5W-30 was not widely available here at the time the car was new. I do add Marvel's Mystery Oil once in awhile to the oil, at an amount recommended by them. Whether that does anything is a good question, but it helps psychologically.

A car with a rebuilt engine which has lifter noise at start-up and an oil pressure light at idle is very alarming, at least to me. I kind of doubt oil viscosity would account for either of those issues, frankly. If you switch to thinner oil as recommended, and these go away, then great. But...traditionally, low oil pressure at idle was a symptom of excess clearance in cam bearings, and next in crank and connecting rod bearings. Hopefully this engine was rebuilt correctly.
Well that's a lot to think about. Engine was rebuilt like almost 2 years ago, been running fine since. The issue with the oil light I think was because the temp sensor wasn't working since day 1 I got the car back, so I plugged it out (fan working all the time) and rpms went too low so I had to adjust em, when I revv it a lil bit the oil light would go away. I recently fixed that sensor, fan wiring and replaced radiator, rpms are in normal range now but light would come up blinking rapidly at random times at idle, and even before fixing that I haven't had any troubles regarding engine response, noises or overheating.. maybe just a couple times bc of that faulty radiator but nothing bigger than just pull over and let the engine cool down and the normal procedure with that deal...
The only ticking noise I'm hearing now came up the day after I gapped my spark plugs which I guess it is too wide, ticking is random, can happen today and not tomorrow on different parts of the engines top but I'm working on that
 
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