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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I have a 96 Taurus 3.0ohv 150k miles, I bought a couple months ago. Since I have owned the car I have experienced coolant in the oil ( which resulted in new heads before finding the timing cover gasket was leaking), also now I have a problem of low oil pressure after warming to operating temp. With a mechanical gauge at operating temp and an idle near 700 (in drive, a/c on) I have less than 10psi. After the problems of having coolant in my oil, I figured that the lower bearings (rods & mains) were probably worn from the glycol in the anitfreeze. So today I dropped the pan, changed out all the rod and main bearings, the oil pump, and much to my suprise there was not much damage to the bearings. ( all STD bearings) after I got it all back together tonight i drove it around a while to get it good and hot, got it back home only to find that I still have about the same oil psi. New oil, oil filer, rods, mains, oil pump, heads, coolant, trans fluid.... All the work I have done to this car and I am held up by oil pressure. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
 

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What is the pressure at 2000 RPM, oil hot? Ford spec is 40 to 60 psi. WHat weight oil are you using?
 

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Are the cam bearings the last thing to receive pressurized oil in a Vulcan engine? If so, maybe they were the first and only component to be effected by the coolant in the oil. Just a theory on my part.
I've heard of certain old school auto engines experiencing low oil pressure due to worn cam bearings. Only other thing I can think of is you might have received a defective pump.
If you are not hearing any rapping or ticking, you might be OK with just adding a bottle of oil stabilizer (thickener) and letting it ride.

It's a shame you had the heads pulled before, but it was an easy thing to misdiagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok, I am just pulling these numbers off the top of my head, but I am thinking that I had maybe 25psi warm with 15w40. I know that after 15 min of driving, if I stop at a red light my gauge (aftermarket) go down nearly to zero. The car runs great, doesn't tick or knock (except a very small exhaust leak) pulls good, starts fine. This whole problem just makes no sense. unless maybe there is a regulator, relief, or bypass valve possible stuck partially open. The water sat in the engine for about 6 weeks before I found out that it was the timing cover and not the heads, the car was not driven at all. any thoughts.

As far as the cam bearings, Judging from the wear on the rods and mains I would think they are decent. The bearings I replaced were really not bad (small groves around oil passages), but after all the crap of removing the exhaust there was no way I was going to skip out on replacing them.
 
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