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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I had an issue with the posts/wires on my battery recently, with the car just dying in the middle of an intersection. Luckily I had enough momentum to get through and pulled off to the side.

Had a boost(several actually) and cleaned off the corrosion and tightened the connections.

AFTER the car got running again, the lifters started ticking and the Oil light came on. thats right, no light before that and ran smoothly.

Now there appears to be hardly any oil pressure. And I'm getting a P0340 code(Cam Position Sensor).

Theres no sqealing/chirping, just the tick of the oil-starved lifters.

Question - is this common to pop up like this? What are the odds of success from replacing the sensor and syncro to cure my prob? (Obviously i cant drive this as is...ugh)..there was a fair amount of cranking trying to get the car boosted...
 

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The drive gear on the bottom of the CPS drive unit also drives your oil pump. Lifters ticking is a bad sign. I wasn't paying attention and lost an engine that way.
 

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It's worth a try to just replace the whole sensor with a true Ford part- cam drive and all. Then change the oil because of the metal shaving. Re aligning the sensor is the fun part. Hopefully the motor didn't get damaged. The search feature on this site will give you days of reading on this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
...Been reading for days. haha. First guess was Oil Pump, then thought about the sensor and sync, then second-guessed and back to the pump idea ...

I've put on, at most 30 KM, since the ticking started. and it was from just getting the car back home. Hopefully it will be ok.

Going to take a day off and try this tomorrow. Actually already changed the Oil & filter 2 days ago
 

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Most likely the gear stripped out, you lost oil pump and cam signal and that's what caused it to stall. Happened to me when a cam sensor went out. Took several tries to restart because PCM couldn't sync fuel to cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its possible.

Although I had no power when i turned the key. No lights, nothing. Only after cleaning the battery connections did I get power back.

Had 2 police cars pull up behind me wondering why the heck I was parked so close to the intersection for...haha...atleast they were good enough to stay there with their lights on to keep idiots from smashing into me. I was barely 20ft through the intersection on a hill. Kinda embarrasing standing on the sidewalk with my 3 kids with 2 police around...hopefully noone recognized me ;)
 

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Cake monster
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...Been reading for days. haha. First guess was Oil Pump, then thought about the sensor and sync, then second-guessed and back to the pump idea ...

I've put on, at most 30 KM, since the ticking started. and it was from just getting the car back home. Hopefully it will be ok.

Going to take a day off and try this tomorrow. Actually already changed the Oil & filter 2 days ago
Not completely sure, but I don't think you could drive 30 km and not lock the engine without some kind of lubrication. Doesn't the CMP generally cause massive, sudden pressure oil loss when it does fail? Or can the thing actually partially fail, and if they do, how does it partially drive the oil pump? Is it skipping teeth or something? I didn't think it could cause low oil pressure.

Starting an engine with no oil is like trying to use road pavement for a slip n slide. Friction is a bitch, that and you won't get far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thats what I thought too. I had no idea when I was driving it home that it was so severe. My best guess would be that its slipping and only partially turning the pump resulting in the low pressure.

I'll try this repair, and if it doesn't fix it, then I'll be junking it. Any "bigger" type repair would require a shop to get involved, and I could pick up a replacement beater for the same price as the repair. And there's no guarantee that if i take it to a shop that thats all it will need..
 

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Thats what I thought too. I had no idea when I was driving it home that it was so severe. My best guess would be that its slipping and only partially turning the pump resulting in the low pressure.

I'll try this repair, and if it doesn't fix it, then I'll be junking it. Any "bigger" type repair would require a shop to get involved, and I could pick up a replacement beater for the same price as the repair. And there's no guarantee that if i take it to a shop that thats all it will need..
...one of two things happened. Your CPS jammed, that's for sure, and the gear on the camshaft ripped the gear on the synchro assembly to shreds. So, the gear partially disintegrated and you have oil pump pulses, or (what happened to me) the metal shards fell into your oil pump and siezed that. If you opt to replace the CPS, keep your reciept and try to spin the oil pump by ratchet (long extension, don't know what size hex the shaft is. Could get a rough idea by looking at the bottom of the synchro assembly). You'll know if it's junked or not.
 

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Cake monster
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...one of two things happened. Your CPS jammed, that's for sure, and the gear on the camshaft ripped the gear on the synchro assembly to shreds. So, the gear partially disintegrated and you have oil pump pulses, or (what happened to me) the metal shards fell into your oil pump and siezed that. If you opt to replace the CPS, keep your reciept and try to spin the oil pump by ratchet (long extension, don't know what size hex the shaft is. Could get a rough idea by looking at the bottom of the synchro assembly). You'll know if it's junked or not.
It'd take like 25 minutes to lift it out and check it. You could buy the part, but why bother if you know the motor is likely toast anyway. I'd just lift it up and check it out, then go from there. If it sheared, it still caused oil starvation and I certainly doubt the motor dealt with that very well, especially considering that it was driven over 30Km. On the flip side, even if it wasn't the syncro (and it seems really likely) there's still the fact that it had low oil pressure for some reason, and low oil pressure will ruin a engine.

I'm thinking the motor is toast either way, even if you fix the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
...just checked the prices, and crap! 66.62+tax for the sensor and 248.08 for the synchronizer...

although, the POS dorman synchronizer was only 66.93 WITH the sensor.. ha! Maybe I should try the crap one first...if it doesnt work, I'm not out much...If it does, I'll swap it for a good quality one when I get the extra cash in the new year(314.70+13% tax)

I can't see the oil pump being seized as I made it 30km...it would have seized the engine after, what, like a few hundred feet?
 

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Warm engines that have just been run (with oil pressure) will often run for quite a while with zero oil pressure under light loads / low RPM, but severe damage like scored bearings, etc will begin to take place quite quickly. Eventually a bearing will spin which will be the final nail in the coffin. Have you tried to crank it without starting it since you got home? If you lost all oil pressure and drove it 30 km, I am guessing it will not crank over at all because a few main or rod bearings have siezed.

As suggested, pull the CMP/syncro and look at the gear teeth. If they are all gone = zero oil pressure and it was driven 30 km, its time for a new wngine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
One of the first things I did when I got it home was a complete oil change. I started it to get the oil circulating in hopes that it would help. Also, moved it around in the yard to get it set up on jacks to try and check the pump(but the bolts were seized so I couldn't get into it to check from underneath).

So yes, it still starts and runs.
 

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...just checked the prices, and crap! 66.62+tax for the sensor and 248.08 for the synchronizer...

although, the POS dorman synchronizer was only 66.93 WITH the sensor.. ha! Maybe I should try the crap one first...if it doesnt work, I'm not out much...If it does, I'll swap it for a good quality one when I get the extra cash in the new year(314.70+13% tax)
I have replaced them with the Cardone re-manufactured unit from Advance Auto. Not nearly as expensive, better than Dorman, and they even usually have the Ford logo still on the casting.
 

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Cake monster
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I look at it like this: 30Km of driving would take 30 minutes at 100km/h, so if he drove slower than that, he ran the engine for more than half an hour with low oil pressure! It was low enough to start making noises too. That's an awful long way to drive without much oil pressure. I mean, even if it was 5 or 10 km I could see it being okay, but 30+ minutes of driving? That's a lot to me.

Perhaps I'm missing something, but after you got it started again and noticed the oil light and noise, why not shut her down and call for a tow?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nope, didn't miss anything JW..other than that I was broke...just didnt have the cash to pay the $70+ tow..so i took the chance.

Ok..so I now have the sensor & sync in hand - gonna see how it goes shortly....
 

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I look at it like this: 30Km of driving would take 30 minutes at 100km/h, so if he drove slower than that, he ran the engine for more than half an hour with low oil pressure! It was low enough to start making noises too. That's an awful long way to drive without much oil pressure. I mean, even if it was 5 or 10 km I could see it being okay, but 30+ minutes of driving? That's a lot to me.

Perhaps I'm missing something, but after you got it started again and noticed the oil light and noise, why not shut her down and call for a tow?
I agree.... there is damage inside the engine. Its just a matter of how bad it is. The engines life has been shortened. Will it last 10 miles or 10,000?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update:

Ok, 1/2 done now. Got the old one pulled...

The syncronizer has some obvious wear to it in places, so its definately the issue. Looks like it was slipping causing the lower oil pressure. Hopefully it didn't completely kill the engine :(

well, back to it..gotta find that elusive TDC...It started snowing/raining here and is now dark :(
 

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Cake monster
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As for the towing. I've been in the situation more times than I care to mention. I would have probably called the nearest garage, told them I needed my car pulled back to their yard to be fixed and that you want the tow to be on the bill. I said enough is enough and got CAA (AAA in the US?) a long time ago and now I don't need to worry about that crap. It's pretty much a god send when you have a beater car.

As for how bad it is, I wouldn't be spending the money on the parts. I would get another car.

Hopefully I'm wrong and your engine will give you some time before she gives up. Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Looks like success!

Oil Light out. No ticking. No CEL

Took a quick spin to circulate the oil. will go for little longer drive shortly to be sure, but looks promising so far :)

Looks like about 4 teeth/gears/whatever-they're-called are worn, assumably thats why I still had some oil pressure, because the rest seemed relatively ok and it was just slipping. The sensor appeared ok too.

 
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