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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello:

I have a 2002 SES with 120000 miles so far. There appears to be oil leaks from both the oil pan, and around the cylinder heads.
I can accept the oil pan, but do the head gaskets normally allow oil to leak out the sides and drip down the engine, or is there something else going on here?

Any feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have replaced the valve cover gaskets. This issue originally started with seeing oil puddling around base of Camshaft Position sensor. Valve gaskets were my first thought. I also am considering the oil pressure sending unit to be leaky, but the oil path is down both heads, not just the rear bank.
 

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Lots of oil leaks from multiple source usually means a malfunctioning PCV system. High crankcase pressure = gaskets popping out.
 

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99% sure that what you are seeing is coming from the ends of the lower intake manifold at the bottom of the valley. There is a rubber gasket on each end and the corners are sealed with RTV. Both my 98 and 97 leaked from this location. I am currently in the process of rebuilding my 98 Vulcan and I am contemplating sealing this area with RTV only, I'll have to dry fit it first thought to see if it would work. When I was disassembling the 98 The gasket was and deformed and hardened with age, it was obvious it wasn't sealing correctly.
 

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Intake Valley Gasket-

99% sure that what you are seeing is coming from the ends of the lower intake manifold at the bottom of the valley. There is a rubber gasket on each end and the corners are sealed with RTV. Both my 98 and 97 leaked from this location. I am currently in the process of rebuilding my 98 Vulcan and I am contemplating sealing this area with RTV only, I'll have to dry fit it first thought to see if it would work. When I was disassembling the 98 The gasket was and deformed and hardened with age, it was obvious it wasn't sealing correctly.
Not to jump thread but this caught my attention, I am in the middle of doing a head job on my 96 vulcan and with my Fel-Pro kit there are rubber gaskets for the ends. Are you suggesting to not use those rubber gaskets and just use straight RTV?
 

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Not to jump thread but this caught my attention, I am in the middle of doing a head job on my 96 vulcan and with my Fel-Pro kit there are rubber gaskets for the ends. Are you suggesting to not use those rubber gaskets and just use straight RTV?

Yes that is what I am suggesting however I am going to dry fit the parts first to see if it is even possible. I have used the RTV only method on valve covers, Oil Pans, Water Pumps, and timing covers before. (on various makes and models of engines not just the Taurus) In some applications it works great, in others I still use the gaskets
 

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I had an old chebby small block that used to give me trouble like that. Everytime I put a new gasket on, it instantly leaked. After a few times I figured out to use straight rtv. It stopped...
 

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I had a 88 Lebaron with a 2.5 liter. The Valve cover gasket was this 4 part rubber and cork contraption. I am sure that some people were able to get it to seal but I threw it out and used straight RTV. Never leaked a drop, The same engine also had a cork oil pan gasket with the same issue. I threw it out as well in favor of RTV. After the rebuild that engine stayed as dry as a bone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the replies. I am sending pictures to help show what I have. I don't want to have to replace the head gaskets if there is something else going on.

Mike
 

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That looks like the valve cover gasket(s) to me. Either they were not seated in the channel in the valve cover properly when installed, or they were over torqued when installed. I had one leak on my 97 after replacement. somehow it tore during the install. Looked about like yours.
 

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Thanks for all the replies. I am sending pictures to help show what I have. I don't want to have to replace the head gaskets if there is something else going on.

Mike

Hey man get rid of that orange can of doom "Fram Filter" and put a motorcraft on there. All the Fram filters suck except the Xtended Guard which is now a synthetic media long life filter.

Orange Can of doom = cardboard endcaps where the industry standard is metal, poor filter media, poor filtration, weak flow capacitys and poor burst strength.

Get the Motorcraft FL400s filter at Walmart it costs $3.67 and its a Purolator Classic inside, which is about 10 times better than that Fram orange can.

Just a word of advice, the Vulcans are easy on oil, but you can keep it much cleaner. I have seen pictures of Frams that have actually disintegrated and let filter media in the engine as well as ones that have burst and starved engines of oil causing lockup.

This isn't fully updated, but all the Frams except the XG are a poor choice IMHO. The orange cans are still built the same as it shows in the MiniMopar link except probably even cheaper now.

Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources



Sorry to rant but i have seen some bad stuff.

Links for those who want to read up on oil/filters.

oil filters

Why Slam the Fram? - Bob Is The Oil Guy


Pics of bad frams

Fram PH-16 @ 10K KM (6K Miles) - Bob Is The Oil Guy

http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/fram.shtml

http://www.wolverine-synthetics.com/pages/amsoil_filter_comparison.html

I believe when your dad and gradpas used Fram they were quality built but in the past years they have been outsourced to cheap Chinese companies and aren't worth a Dam!

Just a bid of advice from one Vulcan owner to Another, not trying to pimp any particular brands but i use Purolator Pureones 20195s in my Vulcan because it holds more than the now shorter FL400s and has better filtering, but the Motorcraft FL400s should always be chosen over the Fram 3600
 
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