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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Not too long ago, I made a post about a P0174 code I was getting in my Taurus. Tried some of the suggestions, most of which were vaccuum leak related. Today I decided to finally check the runner control valve gasket, and the gasket was fine. However, there was oil on the control valve part itself. After a little further investigation, it looks like there's oil inside the cylinders as well.


Does anyone have any idea what kind of repair this might hint at? Doesn't look like there's any water inside, and it doesn't seem to be a blown head gasket. I will say the car has been running strangely for a while, and based off of the P2198 code it was throwing, an AutoZone employee said it could be a misfire on cylinder 2. There are a couple spots on both sides of the engine that look like burnt oil possibly, one looked like it was on cylinder 2 and the other possibly cylinder 4. I'll post pictures for clarification tonight.


Really appreciate any advice right now, I'm supposed to be moving soon so I need to get this moving quick. Depending on if it's a smaller deal than what it seems, I may just bring it in to a shop and pay to get it done quick (hopefully).


Link to my original post if anyone wants to look through symptoms. Let me know if you need any more info, the weather isn't letting me get out to do anything tonight.

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/343658-o2-sensor-codes-sluggishness-possible-fuel-system-issues.html
 

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How did you check the runner control valve gasket? Just because it didnt fall apart in your hands doesnt mean it is good. I would have replaced it.

A small amount of oil in the intake is normal. It comes in thru the PCV system. Lots of oil, like puddles, indicated a problem.

Your comment about oil in the cylinders makes no sense. Did you pull the plugs and use a bore-scope to look in them? Pull the heads?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How did you check the runner control valve gasket? Just because it didnt fall apart in your hands doesnt mean it is good. I would have replaced it.

A small amount of oil in the intake is normal. It comes in thru the PCV system. Lots of oil, like puddles, indicated a problem.

Your comment about oil in the cylinders makes no sense. Did you pull the plugs and use a bore-scope to look in them? Pull the heads?

Fair points made, I'm not too experienced with cars yet. It looks like just a light coat, and doesn't look fresh. I actually didn't investigate too far, the wind was getting bad and I didn't want to risk dirt getting into the engine. My cousin made an observation, and he's not exactly a gold-thumb mechanic but he insisted on helping with taking off the plenum.


Anyway I haven't put it back together yet, should I just get an oil filter gasket like others have mentioned to replace it? Thanks for the heads up on replacing that while I'm still in. I'm also taking a look at the fuel injectors because the car has some hesitation issues, and there's a sputter in the exhaust that smells like gas. It idles sporadically and somewhat high.
 

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Injectors rarely fail. I would look elsewhere for your issues.

I would spend the $10 and get the correct gasket from the dealer or online versus using an oil filter gasket.

Remove and inspect the coil pack. If there are ANY cracks, no matter how small, replace it with a Motorcraft or BWD unit only. How old are the plugs and plug wires? Wires properly routed? Are the plugs the correct Motorcraft or NGK plugs?

Idle issues are either a vac leak or IAC issues. Try cleaning / lubing the IAC, and make sure it is a Motorcraft unit and not some aftermarket POS.
 

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Agree with the IAC, get oem, during my diagnosis of my issues, which I have fixed, I tried an aftermarket, echlin\standard ignition, same, idle was all over the place, cleaned and put the oem back on, no issues, actually runs good now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Injectors rarely fail. I would look elsewhere for your issues.

I would spend the $10 and get the correct gasket from the dealer or online versus using an oil filter gasket.

Remove and inspect the coil pack. If there are ANY cracks, no matter how small, replace it with a Motorcraft or BWD unit only. How old are the plugs and plug wires? Wires properly routed? Are the plugs the correct Motorcraft or NGK plugs?

Idle issues are either a vac leak or IAC issues. Try cleaning / lubing the IAC, and make sure it is a Motorcraft unit and not some aftermarket POS.

Good suggestion! I also haven't checked the coil pack yet, but the plugs and plug wires are ~a year old. The wires should be properly routed, and I'm not certain on the brand of the plugs because they were changed before I owned it.
They make IAC cleaner, correct? I'm not certain, but I think I may have cleaned the IAC a while back. I'll get back to you tomorrow when I have a chance to check it out.


Agree with the IAC, get oem, during my diagnosis of my issues, which I have fixed, I tried an aftermarket, echlin\standard ignition, same, idle was all over the place, cleaned and put the oem back on, no issues, actually runs good now.

Did you buy the IAC online? Hoping to spend less than the $60-100 I've seen looking for prices if this is my problem ..but I'd rather not skimp on quality. Thanks for the suggestion!
 

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Good suggestion! I also haven't checked the coil pack yet, but the plugs and plug wires are ~a year old. The wires should be properly routed, and I'm not certain on the brand of the plugs because they were changed before I owned it.
They make IAC cleaner, correct? I'm not certain, but I think I may have cleaned the IAC a while back. I'll get back to you tomorrow when I have a chance to check it out.





Did you buy the IAC online? Hoping to spend less than the $60-100 I've seen looking for prices if this is my problem ..but I'd rather not skimp on quality. Thanks for the suggestion!

I would take a JY oe IAC and clean it over any new one. See pic, this one from Lincoln but looks the same as Vulcan, different size opening. I took this and cleaned it up and traded it on my '02 Lin Cont. Works exactly the same as OE on the car which was very clean anyway. Just a test to see if a very dirty stuck one can be cleaned and same as new. Yes it can. But, the prime reason for any IAC not being totally clean in use is the PCV not up to par or aftermarket PCV. Only clean filtered air should pass through this part. For cleaning I use household ammonia and a Q-Tip holding the solenoid up and in a sink. Use a tooth pick to move the piston back and forth until the shaft is clean and free. Drop of oil on the moving surfaces and wipe the excess. I dry mine with a hair dryer before oiling.
Pic of my DOHC IAC, pull off and check for clean as in this pic. It stays this way, but if I see any sign of oil or water, time for PCV replace with only OE part. This car has 170K on it and stays clean.
-chart-
 

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Good suggestion! I also haven't checked the coil pack yet, but the plugs and plug wires are ~a year old. The wires should be properly routed, and I'm not certain on the brand of the plugs because they were changed before I owned it.
They make IAC cleaner, correct? I'm not certain, but I think I may have cleaned the IAC a while back. I'll get back to you tomorrow when I have a chance to check it out.





Did you buy the IAC online? Hoping to spend less than the $60-100 I've seen looking for prices if this is my problem ..but I'd rather not skimp on quality. Thanks for the suggestion!

I work at NAPA got one there.
 

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^^^^^ The ONLY IAC's that work correctly are the MOTORCRAFT ones. ALL other brands are hit or miss....mostly miss.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would take a JY oe IAC and clean it over any new one. See pic, this one from Lincoln but looks the same as Vulcan, different size opening. I took this and cleaned it up and traded it on my '02 Lin Cont. Works exactly the same as OE on the car which was very clean anyway. Just a test to see if a very dirty stuck one can be cleaned and same as new. Yes it can. But, the prime reason for any IAC not being totally clean in use is the PCV not up to par or aftermarket PCV. Only clean filtered air should pass through this part. For cleaning I use household ammonia and a Q-Tip holding the solenoid up and in a sink. Use a tooth pick to move the piston back and forth until the shaft is clean and free. Drop of oil on the moving surfaces and wipe the excess. I dry mine with a hair dryer before oiling.
Pic of my DOHC IAC, pull off and check for clean as in this pic. It stays this way, but if I see any sign of oil or water, time for PCV replace with only OE part. This car has 170K on it and stays clean.
-chart-

I'll be getting to the IAC as soon as possible, but I just found something out the other day.
Someone who worked on this car in the past didn't put a gasket back on the EGR. A little bit of research lead me to believe this could be a possible culprit for the rough running. Do you have any insight on that? Also, I have to find a way to splice or bridge the fuel line running to the FPR, someone who was 'helping' me busted it up pretty bad when I was looking for tools.. I'd rather connect it with a new piece of line than get in deep to replace it, if anyone has some advice on that I'd appreciate it as well!
 

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No gasket where EGR is attached to intake = vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No gasket where EGR is attached to intake = vacuum leak.

I was starting to suspect that - the thing is, before I got the car, my grandma was saying she was having issues with what seemed like spark plugs. Her friend's grandson apparently worked on it, and that's the only way I could see that this gasket came off. I'm wondering if there's something further that needs to be looked into, but I also suspect that the spark plugs are the wrong brand, and most likely incorrectly gapped. Not to mention, I read that spark plug o-rings can go bad and I don't think anyone's ever changed those. Sorry for thinking out loud here lol trying to troubleshoot.


Anyway, I'm having problems getting the bolt off of the pipe that leads to the EGR valve. I was gonna remove it to clean it with some carb cleaner, but even after a couple coats of WD-40, it's really on there. Any suggestions? I'll be taking a swing at it again tomorrow. Really glad there's a community for these cars, mine's proven to be pretty tricky!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No o rings on sparkplugs and a little heat from a propane torch will help to loosen that nut.
Thanks again lol I just realized we have the same car after seeing your last response. I'm a little worried about using a torch, as the FPR is disconnected thanks to a recent mishap. Although I don't think it's close enough to be an issue. The line is cut, and pointed up towards the back of the engine bay on passenger side.
 
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