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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so here's the problem. About a week ago I was leaving a little late for work, so I'm running out to start the car up and run to work. Oil light comes on immediately and the engine is whining like crazy. So leaving it idling I pop the hood, figuring the sound was coming from the serpentine belt. Because that used to whine alot on my old Taurus when it was cold. But no, the belt was silent. The whining was coming from the block. So I'm like oh crap, what's happened to the car? Now just to give you an idea the car had been sitting on the street for three days without being started with an average high temperature of 9F not including the windchill. Anywho after about ten minutes the oil light goes off, engine continues to whine. I drive into to work very cautiously wondering what was wrong with the oil. I had checked the oil and it was full. I use 5w-20 full synthetic in my engine and have never had a problem. No more problems what so ever until today.
Today car drove fine into work. Then it sat in the lot for nine hours with an average temperature of 5F, with the windchill I think it was like -20F. So yeah it's cold. I go to leave work, start the car, and but of coarse the oil light in on. I shut the car off and wait a second then go and check the oil. Just as I presumed it was still full. So after twenty-four minutes of letting the engine idle and occasionally watching the rpms spike then drop from 1200-600, the oil light finally goes off. Now I'm guessing that because of the extreme cold temps that we've had lately it's causing my oil to be so thick that it won't pump through the engine and circulate? Has this ever happened to anyone else?
 

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Okay so here's the problem. About a week ago I was leaving a little late for work, so I'm running out to start the car up and run to work. Oil light comes on immediately and the engine is whining like crazy. So leaving it idling I pop the hood, figuring the sound was coming from the serpentine belt. Because that used to whine alot on my old Taurus when it was cold. But no, the belt was silent. The whining was coming from the block. So I'm like oh crap, what's happened to the car? Now just to give you an idea the car had been sitting on the street for three days without being started with an average high temperature of 9F not including the windchill. Anywho after about ten minutes the oil light goes off, engine continues to whine. I drive into to work very cautiously wondering what was wrong with the oil. I had checked the oil and it was full. I use 5w-20 full synthetic in my engine and have never had a problem. No more problems what so ever until today.
Today car drove fine into work. Then it sat in the lot for nine hours with an average temperature of 5F, with the windchill I think it was like -20F. So yeah it's cold. I go to leave work, start the car, and but of coarse the oil light in on. I shut the car off and wait a second then go and check the oil. Just as I presumed it was still full. So after twenty-four minutes of letting the engine idle and occasionally watching the rpms spike then drop from 1200-600, the oil light finally goes off. Now I'm guessing that because of the extreme cold temps that we've had lately it's causing my oil to be so thick that it won't pump through the engine and circulate? Has this ever happened to anyone else?
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You should change to 0W-30 oil, and consider getting a block heater. I would NEVER start my Taurus without a block heater if its been sitting for days in freezing weather. Maybe if it sat over night...
 

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I would never recommend 0w anything if you want the engine to last another year.

My car sat for a week before in below 0* temps, starts up just fine, im running 10w40 right now, no problems at all.

If anything id recommend thicker oil that wont freeze as easy if thats actually whats happening.
 

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The oil isn't frozen. I don't have a block heater and my car is outside 100% of the time (heck it was 5 today and it started and ran fine after sitting for a few days in freezing temperatures).

What weight oil do you have in it? It's possible it could be too thin...is it relatively new? If the oil light was on for 24 minutes, you probably have either a faulty sender or bigger problems than it being cold outside.

How's the cam synchronizer? Mileage on the car? The oil pressure light (assuming that it's working correctly) doesn't come on until the oil pressure is already ridiculously low. If it's anything more than a very brief flicker (which some Vulcans do with 5w20 oil, which IMHO is too light) there's something wrong.

edit: I didn't notice you had a Duratec...the cam synchro runs the oil pump on the Vulcan, which is what I was thinking of. It sounds like an oil pressure problem though...could be rod bearings, or oil pump related - I don't really know enough about the Duratec to really claim I know what I'm talking about though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The oil isn't frozen. I don't have a block heater and my car is outside 100% of the time (heck it was 5 today and it started and ran fine after sitting for a few days in freezing temperatures).

What weight oil do you have in it? If the oil light was on for 24 minutes, you probably have either a faulty sender or bigger problems than it being cold outside.

How's the cam synchronizer? Mileage on the car? The oil pressure light (assuming that it's working correctly) doesn't come on until the oil pressure is already ridiculously low. If it's anything more than a very brief flicker (which some Vulcans do with 5w20 oil, which IMHO is too light) there's something wrong. [/b]
I use 5w-20 which is what the car specifies. And the car only has 67,000 miles on it. That's why I'm puzzled.
 

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Running 5w-20 you were well within the cold pour point of that oil. So that isn't it.
 

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<div class='quotemain'> The oil isn't frozen. I don't have a block heater and my car is outside 100% of the time (heck it was 5 today and it started and ran fine after sitting for a few days in freezing temperatures).

What weight oil do you have in it? If the oil light was on for 24 minutes, you probably have either a faulty sender or bigger problems than it being cold outside.

How's the cam synchronizer? Mileage on the car? The oil pressure light (assuming that it's working correctly) doesn't come on until the oil pressure is already ridiculously low. If it's anything more than a very brief flicker (which some Vulcans do with 5w20 oil, which IMHO is too light) there's something wrong. [/b]
I use 5w-20 which is what the car specifies. And the car only has 67,000 miles on it. As far as I know the synchronizer is working fine. That's why I'm puzzled.
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Ignore my section about the synchro...I was mistaken about which engine you have and edited accordingly :)
 

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I would never recommend 0w anything if you want the engine to last another year.

My car sat for a week before in below 0* temps, starts up just fine, im running 10w40 right now, no problems at all.

If anything id recommend thicker oil that wont freeze as easy if thats actually whats happening.
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0W oil is for freezing temps. I've been running it on my Vulcanator (0W-30) for the past year. No problems. I dont know where you get your facts from. If your thinking of 0W-10 then yes it may possibly (NOT WILL) chain out and screw your motor up(only at full revs, then it WILL.). But 0W-30 will run perfect. If your afraid of the oil chaining out try 0W-40.

There is a Difference between 0W-30 and SAE 0. BIG difference. when a 0W-30 Oil hits operating temperatures, at which friction becomes a big problem, it runs like a SAE 30 Would. but it runs like an SAE 0 at negative temperatures. Oil heats up pretty quickly, you would be VERY surprised. It behaves like an SAE-5 At warmer cold temps, and at normal room temp, acts like an SAE-10.

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/


Edit: And yes, I've driven it in 100+ degree weather (and -25 windchill) WITH the 0W-30 and did NOT have any problem whatsoever. My engine is running fine.. if only i could get my transmission to co-operate.
 

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You oil didnt freeze. I run M1 5W30 in my Tec. It was -18 deg (yes, -18 deg, coldest temps here in 13 years :( ) this morning when I left for work, and the Bull started instantly, and the oil light went out instantly. At these below zero temps we have had the last few days, the Tec does whine a little for the first few minutes, but I wouldnt say it whines like crazy. I'll make a blind guess the whine is from the timing chains.

I wonder if the oil pressure switch is acting up in the cold weather.
 

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Running 5w-30 in my tec, and its been sitting in the -25F nights for 2 days now. Other than the alt bearing squealing like a #@#%$#, it started and ran with no problems.
 

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even my car squeals at cold start in the morning.. and I assume its the serpentine belt.. because it goes away in few minutes..

can it be something else ?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I know a bit about cars myself and I know the oil didn't freeze. I was simply suggesting that it was too thick to circulate. Looking back "frozen" was probably a bad word to use. Now today no problems starting up and everything ran fine. I ask a guy I work with about it though and he said that being that it is full synthetic 5w-20 it is slightly thicker in the cold temps than the 5w-20 synthetic blend that the car originally ran. If that were true that might explain the low oil pressure and why the light goes out after the engine and oil warm up. But I always thought full synthetic was thinner. It's probably nothing wrong though other than the cold screwing with the car I hope. Just my bull is my baby and the slightest thing wrong with her and I got to fix it. My mechanic and I are great friends so I'll probably take it in to him and have him take a look, since he's the one who put the oil in last.
 

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I know a bit about cars myself and I know the oil didn't freeze. I was simply suggesting that it was too thick to circulate. Looking back "frozen" was probably a bad word to use. Now today no problems starting up and everything ran fine. I ask a guy I work with about it though and he said that being that it is full synthetic 5w-20 it is slightly thicker in the cold temps than the 5w-20 synthetic blend that the car originally ran. If that were true that might explain the low oil pressure and why the light goes out after the engine and oil warm up. But I always thought full synthetic was thinner. It's probably nothing wrong though other than the cold screwing with the car I hope. Just my bull is my baby and the slightest thing wrong with her and I got to fix it. My mechanic and I are great friends so I'll probably take it in to him and have him take a look, since he's the one who put the oil in last.
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I think he got it backwards... Thickest to thinnest (typically): Dino>Synthetic Blend (based on %)> Pure Synthetic
 

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Discussion Starter #14
<div class='quotemain'>
I know a bit about cars myself and I know the oil didn't freeze. I was simply suggesting that it was too thick to circulate. Looking back "frozen" was probably a bad word to use. Now today no problems starting up and everything ran fine. I ask a guy I work with about it though and he said that being that it is full synthetic 5w-20 it is slightly thicker in the cold temps than the 5w-20 synthetic blend that the car originally ran. If that were true that might explain the low oil pressure and why the light goes out after the engine and oil warm up. But I always thought full synthetic was thinner. It's probably nothing wrong though other than the cold screwing with the car I hope. Just my bull is my baby and the slightest thing wrong with her and I got to fix it. My mechanic and I are great friends so I'll probably take it in to him and have him take a look, since he's the one who put the oil in last.
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I think he got it backwards... Thickest to thinnest (typically): Dino>Synthetic Blend (based on %)> Pure Synthetic [/b][/quote]
Yeah that's what I figured. Well like I said I'm going to take the car in to my mechanic so he can check some sensors for me, see what he turns up. Hopefully it's nothing.
 

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Correct....A pure synthetic oil would have a lower pour point and "thinner" than a dino or blend in cold weather.

Examples:

Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 has a pour point of -42
Pennzoil conventional has a pout point of -39

What that doesn't really tell you is that the platinum synthetic will flow much faster than the conventional
in cold weather.

See this Mobil demo video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAIpZ0v12eo...feature=related
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks ZZ and SHO for the video. That pretty much shows you what cold temps can do to the oil. It should flow still. I just hope it is a sensor maybe going bad that caused the light to go on from the cold and not an actual problem.
Does anybody know where or how many sensors are connected to the check oil light?
 

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Thanks ZZ and SHO for the video. That pretty much shows you what cold temps can do to the oil. It should flow still. I just hope it is a sensor maybe going bad that caused the light to go on from the cold and not an actual problem.
Does anybody know where or how many sensors are connected to the check oil light?
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Paul should know.. I don't of the top of my head..

Here's what made me switch over. (And convinced my parents to do the same...)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KGll3zsJFY
 

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It got to -22 here this morning, brrrr...... Anyway good to hear your problems seems to be fixed.
 
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