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QUOTE (cherandy @ Jan 20 2010, 09:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=780758
Whoa, hold on a second. Guys, you're probably going to roll your eyes at this question, but I have to ask now that it's popped into my head. With those scanners... is it possible to not just clear a code, but force the CEL to shut off and not come back for that code even though it *should* be on because the problem still exists?[/b]
No. It's a scanner/reader, not a programmer.
Not to be rude, but why would you want the CEL to turn off if the problem still exists?
 

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One who drives a car most of the time is familiar with all the ''regular'' sounds it makes...the engine, drive train, etc. as well as how it performs and handles. If the car sounds/feels different to you, then there may well be something amiss. Does everything else seem normal to you?

You may have a vacuum leak...a hose may have been dislodged.

How about the cover on the air cleaner box....is it latched properly?

As far as I know, there is no way to make the CEL not come on, or keep the computer from not recording the codes.

For now, just try to pinpoint where the noise seems to be coming from, when it does it, and so on. Eventually, it will turn up.

As I have said, I have no experience with the cam synchro, so I don't know if that might still be a problem.

These engines are designed to stand up to a lot of abuse. Don't stay up nights worrying.

A little paranoia is OK, but don't over do it!!
 

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You didn't understand her question....she was asking if it was possible that the mechanic who worked on her car might have turned off the CEL.
 

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My car ran fine with a vacuum leak for a long time (couldn't find the damn thing). Could hear it, but couldn't pinpoint it. Car had no driveability problems at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Oh, GOOD. I figured that logically, that had to be the answer, but my logic and the truth do not always coincide.

Okay, so tomorrow I think I'll plan to go back to the guy who replaced the cam synchro, and tell him what I'm hearing. He knows what he touched, moved, wiggled. If he willingly offers to try to find what I *think* sounds like a vacuum leak and actually finds it, makes it stop... that will give him points. Question will be how much energy he's willing to expend, if he succeeds, how much he charges me. This noise did not exist before he worked on the car. Granted, it's louder now and only I heard it at all (even when I said "Ssshh, do you hear that? What is that?" no one else heard it until two days ago.) when I left the shop, he may not believe me.

When I called AutoZone the other day, they made no mention of a Gatorback belt. But apparently through the website, I can have it sent to the store... at least, I think that's what it's telling me. Kind of like WalMart's Ship to Store feature. I hope so, because that way it'd be about ten bucks cheaper than the Gates and much better quality than the other choices available locally.

The one good thing about needing a belt? This problem is obvious. The noise it's making is classic. And even *I* can see the blip when the bad spot goes round and round. Don't need a mechanic to explain this one. :)
 

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QUOTE (jay144 @ Jan 21 2010, 12:19 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=780766
You didn't understand her question....she was asking if it was possible that the mechanic who worked on her car might have turned off the CEL.[/b]

You can check to see if the bulb has burned out or been tampered with by turning your key to the on position.

It should light on the dashboard.

Mike
B)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks, Mike. :)

Well, the "ghost" noise seems to come and go, getting louder when it visits, now. I had the Sable at the shop this morning (it was belt time), and naturally... Ah well, I should be used to mechanic's assuming I'm nuts. And I know I'm not the only one it happens to.

If it starts in with the noise Monday while I'm out and about, I'll drive to the shop if at all possible and pull the guy out to hear it. Perhaps if it's a sneak-in and not an appointment, the car will cooperate. ;)

Oh, and he checked the pulleys, said they're good. The new belt did the trick, squeal/squeak/chirp is gone. Got the Gatorback belt for $10 less than the Gates at AutoZone, even though my AZ store said they don't carry them. AutoZone.com is my newest friend. :) Ordered it online to be sent to the store here in the middle of the night, and when I got there to pick it up, it was on hold for me. Nice.

Now if we could just figure out the rough idle/phantom noise...
 

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QUOTE (cherandy @ Jan 21 2010, 01:54 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=780771
Oh, GOOD. I figured that logically, that had to be the answer, but my logic and the truth do not always coincide.

Okay, so tomorrow I think I'll plan to go back to the guy who replaced the cam synchro, and tell him what I'm hearing. He knows what he touched, moved, wiggled. If he willingly offers to try to find what I *think* sounds like a vacuum leak and actually finds it, makes it stop... that will give him points. Question will be how much energy he's willing to expend, if he succeeds, how much he charges me. This noise did not exist before he worked on the car. Granted, it's louder now and only I heard it at all (even when I said "Ssshh, do you hear that? What is that?" no one else heard it until two days ago.) when I left the shop, he may not believe me.

When I called AutoZone the other day, they made no mention of a Gatorback belt. But apparently through the website, I can have it sent to the store... at least, I think that's what it's telling me. Kind of like WalMart's Ship to Store feature. I hope so, because that way it'd be about ten bucks cheaper than the Gates and much better quality than the other choices available locally.

The one good thing about needing a belt? This problem is obvious. The noise it's making is classic. And even *I* can see the blip when the bad spot goes round and round. Don't need a mechanic to explain this one. :)[/b]
Dayton Poly Cog have proved to be good belts for my 94 Taurus 3.8L & 99 Ranger 4.0L.
They run quieter & to date have held up better on both engines than the OEM Motorcraft belts, both are going on 4 years now.
I too have also heard good things said about the GoodYear Gatorback belts.

On the noise you hear, you could fashion a stethoscope from a length of rubber or plastic tubing, one end to the noise suspect, the other to your ear & maybe be able to pinpoint the suspect, or at least isolate the noise to a given area.

Some more thoughts for pondering.
 

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Are you noticing a pattern to the noise, like it only happens when the car is cold, or when warm, or at certain speeds, only when you make a left hand turn, things like that??

If you can narrow down the area the sound seems to come from, that would help, too.

These things can drive one to drink, that's for sure!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
QUOTE (jay144 @ Jan 23 2010, 08:32 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=781301
Are you noticing a pattern to the noise, like it only happens when the car is cold, or when warm, or at certain speeds, only when you make a left hand turn, things like that??

If you can narrow down the area the sound seems to come from, that would help, too.

These things can drive one to drink, that's for sure![/b]
It is worse after my second or third delivery for the night (short trips). It is worse after going uphill. It is MUCH worse after parking on an incline - degree of incline is a factor. Where I park out back at work before dark is a very slight incline. After parking there, I can hear the noise more easily, and motor *seems* louder. After parking in a driveway that is a steeper incline, or requires I climb an incline before leveling out to park, the "vacuum leak" sounding noise is much louder, car is idling rougher.


I met the car's previous owner, tonight, completely by chance. The Sable was parked out front with a pizza sign on top, and the gentleman happened to see it. He walked all the way around it, he said, and determined it was, in fact, his old car. He was sure because the tint on the back glass is ever so slightly split in two places, which he was familiar with. He wanted to tell the owner (not realizing he was talking to her) that they had a beautiful car. Well, I told him it was mine and that I have a definite love/hate relationship with it, at least for now. He looked at me funny and asked why, so I told him how long I've had it and what I've dealt with so far... and that I'm seriously wondering if the previous owner had ever done more that put gas in it. He then looked offended and let me know that yes, he HAD in fact done the maintenance very regularly and she'd never given him any trouble at all. He said the fan behind the dash and some kind of computer board (no idea what he means, I'm just repeating him, here) for it had gone out and he'd had that replaced at a shop here in town. The same shop I flatly refused to take the Sable to to have the synchro done. Perhaps this is why when I turn the heat on I hear a buzzing?

Anyway, he told me the Sable had the tranny serviced at 30,000 miles, that it's only been a few months since the last tuneup, and so forth. We had a nice chat, we did. He told me where almost all of the maintenance had been done at, and I plan to call them Monday. It's a dealership about an hour from here. I'm wondering if their costs are lower, if they can tell me what they've done to her and when, that sort of thing.

I can't drive an hour away every time this car needs something, that's for sure. And even if they're cheaper than the dealer here in my town, I'll likely not be able to afford them often. I'd like those records, though, if possible. And I'm really curious as to what they charge to replace a synchro. If the one I have now is bad or the timing is off it'll have to be corrected. I'll need to take it somewhere that has the correct tools to do the job right. Doesn't hurt to arm myself with info.

He seemed like a nice fella. Didn't seem to like my Ex or his father, none (he recognized my last name). I wonder why? LoL
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Tax return will hit my bank account in the next week. I am planning to buy the ball joints and get those out of the way so I can NOT worry about it anymore. Still doing research to decide what brand/where to buy. And I am planning to buy the brakes/rotors, stick them in my storage unit, and have them put on when it's time. The time will likely be in about 3-5 months. But if I buy the parts now and set aside the labor cost with a note paper-clipped to it, it need not come out of my monthly budget. I also plan to have the tranny serviced. I am wondering, since the phantom noise seems to go away when I put the car in drive and since I know a transmission plug caused a CEL before, if having the transmission experts crawling around will produce the answer.

Then again, the previous owner said he'd had a blower fan and some kind of chip replaced. Could the weird noise I'm hearing be related to that? I don't know. Now that Swafford's has tried to find the phantom noise, checked out the emissions system and mounts, looked for vacuum leak, I do rest easier. The noise still bugs me since I don't know what it is, but Rusty (at Swafford's, not the guy who did the synchro job) says he doesn't believe damage is being caused or it's anything that will cause a break-down. Not the hoped for answer, but one that brings a little relief and peace.

I put new tires on the rear the other day. I was going to do that in the next two weeks anyway, with the tax return, but I do pizza delivery and it was snowing with an expected 7-12 inches. We got 7 or 8 where it did NOT drift, I do believe. Turns out the Sable handles very well on snow/slippery roads, and I am pleased. New tires on the back (front were still in excellent condition) helped a lot, but Jay, the other driver, has good tires, too... and he was slipping around a lot. I was not. Sable gets brownie points!! :)

I think I've decided on the PFC Carbon Metallic brake pads. Rod told me that whatever I decide, to make sure the pads and motors "match", that they're meant to be used together. I'm having trouble figuring out how to figure that one out. I mean, sure if I get the PFC rotors, I'm sure they'll match. But would the Duralast cheapo rotors at AutoZone work just as well with them? How in the heck can I tell??

I've read a lot about brakes in the past few days. I understand more about slotted, dimpled, cross-drilled rotors than I ever wanted to know before. I have a clue about bedding brakes that I never had before. Learning a lot, yup yup. But trying to figure out what materials different rotors are made of and whether they would be a nice, quiet, long-lasting, excellent stopping match to *whatever* pads is driving me crazy.

Can't wait to have all this maintenance done and just enjoy driving the car, again. That sentence sounded like a complaint, but really, I'm just honestly looking forward to it.
 

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On the noise your hearing but so far can't locate, maybe record it & play it back for the Tech, or maybe put in in a file that can be accessed & played back by the forum, so that someone hearing it would recognize what it is & if it's anything to be concerned about.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
QUOTE (pawpaw @ Feb 1 2010, 04:28 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=783107
On the noise your hearing but so far can't locate, maybe record it & play it back for the Tech, or maybe put in in a file that can be accessed & played back by the forum, so that someone hearing it would recognize what it is & if it's anything to be concerned about.[/b]
I've actually considered doing this. The problem is I don't have a video camera. I do have a camera that records video, but the audio isn't all that great. However, I do plan to give it a shot in the near future, in the hopes that when played back on a computer (as opposed to on the camera) the audio might actually be fine, able to pick up on the noise.

It's going to drive me batsh*t today. I have that monthly trip to Festus this morning, with many hills between here and there. The noise doesn't just get worse when parking on an incline, but also rears its head when going up and down hills.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Astoundingly enough, the vacuum leak noise AND oil leak stopped on a dime immediately after replacing the PCV. The old one still rattled, but Rodney said it seemed to be moving a bit slow and had a coating of oil, and advised a new one. He showed me how to change it myself, which I did twenty minutes later. And then I started the car, and listened. When I didn't hear the vacuum leak noise, I was quite happy, but cautious with the celebrations. I spent three days parking on every incline I came across, trying to make it happen again. I also kept checking the oil every day, looking for the level to drop. It did not.

I was amazed, and kept waiting, thinking I was being teased and the issues were going to come back. They have not. A $2 part I changed all by myself got rid of two drive-me-mad worries all at once! Wow.

I don't have my notebook handy and can't really remember, now, what I'd had done when I started this thread and what came after. I've spent somewhere around $1600 in parts and labor to date, though. The last was a couple of weeks ago - 02 sensor. (Thank goodness this forum had already led me to RockAuto - I saved $60 on that part alone!!)

My Sable now runs as smoothly and quietly as it did in those first five days before everything started going to hell. I cannot tell you how happy this makes me. It is now the source of comfort, sense of security and pleasure that it was the day I bought it. {snoopy dance of joy}

I know there will continue to be maintenance, but the crazy onslaught of so much at once, making me wonder if the car was ever going to be right, has ceased. At least for now.

I still say Fords are exactly like high-maintenance girlfriends... they want a LOT of attention, all of which is measured in money. :D
 

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OK, good find, fix & feedback on your problem.

Yup a "shake" isn't a valid PCV valve test & as a minium, we should follow Fords scheduled maintenance replacement call out for this item.
The replacement call out is so infrequent now days, it's often over looked, or forgotten, sorta like brake fluid replacement, that should be done every two-three years, so our ABS valving innards don't freeze up & not work, when when we need it most!!!!

Now, just be sure your up to date on all past & present due scheduled maintenance call outs for your ride, for the type of driving you do, in the conditions where you live & use parts & fluids that say on the packaging that they meet or exceed Fords specifications & do the maintenance on time as scheduled & your Sable will likely run real good & last a looooong time!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I have been combing my previous threads, looking for reminders of just exactly which brakes I ended up getting. I am so glad I posted that information! My brakes are officially thin enough to not pass inspection. Ten years was a fine run, I'm pleased! I had gotten the Wagner Severe Duty - semi metallic, and I'm currently trying to decide whether to spend the money for duplicates or, since I no longer deliver pizza, go with a lesser version.

Mostly though, I'm super frustrated that I never posted exactly what rotors I got. Now I have to start all over again figuring out which to get. Ugh.

With semi metallic pads, is the best "matching" rotors going to be ceramic?
 
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